Working on SOB [Some Other Brand] today...

Added an inch to the shifter to vertical bellcrank rod to get the trans selection to work right. No way was it going to be right without that. Not sure what is up there, might be wrong shifter, wrong rod, etc. Improvised and measured to fix it right.


Brake lights on all the time, perhaps due to brake light switch adjustment. RH brake lights on all the time, LH inner too, LH outer never on.

Interestingly, this caused the front side marker lights to be on all the time. One brighter than the other.

Front park/signal lights not working AT ALL.

Go to look into this today.
Front side markers- test light shows good voltage at the wire to the light. One bulb was wrong type? Naturally dim, even when tested right at the battery. Put brighter bulb in, issue solved.

Front park/turn signals- never got fully RESTORED. No bulbs. Half-arsed install of the lamp assembly, with wrong screws and top one missing. Got proper screws, cleaned sockets, getting 1157 bulbs for next visit.

rear side markers- has volts, lamp lights if you hold its socket to tail panel screw- a known good ground.
Reinstall bulb holder to marker- nothing. Test light from tail panel screw [known good ground] to side marker housing burns both test light and side marker each at half voltage. AHA - side markers NOT GROUNDED. Due to.... PAINT of course. Scraped paint away, tested OK, dismantled and re-assembled with silicone grease at contact points to ward off rust, PERFECT.

Now about that NW LH outer stop lamp.
Socket loose in light housing, no ground contact. But wait, there's more.

Bulb [Chinesium] has loose glass bulb- not tight to its bayonet base.
Some idiot forced a single contact 1156 into the socket. 1156 bulb single centered contact was connecting brake to park/tail circuit... thus the front side markers were on all the time because the brake lites were on all the time. What kind of special worker forces in place a bulb that cannot fit due to the peg differences? Wow.

Socket contact holder [thin bakelite chip between bulb and spring] is not installed right, places contacts poorly. Even proper 1157 will not work right, because the wire contacts are not placed where the bulb's contacts are.
Fix that later with real made in USA old as hell bulbs that fit and work right. And a repair socket.

Peek at LH Reverse light
This should have the 1156 single contact. It has a mangled 1157 dual contact, again forced into place by a previous worker. *sigh*
Put an 1156 in there. Can't test it yet due to reverse light connector not fitting on trans switch connector properly.

LH inner stop/tail - Hey, a correct 1157 bulb! And properly oriented contacts!

RH Stop/Tail and Backup all appear to be OK except one bulb holder tang that went outside the hole and caused trouble. Easy fix.

Just need that repair bulb holder, and some proper 1156 and 1157 Bulbs.

More basic troubleshooting. Grounded electric choke to the nearby screw that retains the adjustment of the choke round plastic housing. Test light reveals 12 going in, but instead of a good GROUND at the screw end of the other wire we get about 1/2 battery voltage. Huh?

OK, test light at battery +
Touching any ground should light it brightly.
choke adjust screw end of electric choke wire: Half a ground

Intake manifold- good ground, bright test light.
Carb to manifold bolt [stainless] - good ground
Carb body itself [edlebrock chromed] - NO GROUND AT ALL, not even a little.
Hard to believe, I made a video.

Fix with choke ground to the intake manifold and/or coil mount screw.

Hoping to get a spark someday, after we get the trans filled with juice. Then it should fire right up.

 

As hard as we try, we don't all ways get the intended results. Electrical quackery fools us all. You know the drill...ground, ground...damn PO!

Seriously, the only valuable input I have, is in regards to your carb/choke readings. Either the choke housing or the carb base gasket itself is insulating/resistance. Good luck on that other stuff.