Anyone interested in a trade?
#1
Anyone interested in a trade?
I bought a 1968 Delmont 88 with a 455 and TH400 with the intent of it donating the engine and transmission to my 66 cutlass then parting out the rest of the car. The car is still in pretty good shape and I feel bad about dismantling such a restorable car for an engine and trans. Would anyone be interested in this car? I drive it about every two weeks (to warm it up and drive out any moisture in the crankcase, keep all the fluids circulated, and entertain the kids - they like the "big old green car").
All I am really after is a 455 and TH400 for my car. I have a TH400 in the car now, but have been told that Olds beefed up the ones they put behind the 455s and I currently have a 330 in the car.
Figured I would put this out there and see if anyone on here has any interest in the car before I grit my teeth and start taking it apart.
I did not put this in the "for sale" section, because it technically isn't for sale at this point. I wondered about a possible trade. If this should be in a different forum, please let me know and I will repost it - I am not very familiar with where to put something like this.
All I am really after is a 455 and TH400 for my car. I have a TH400 in the car now, but have been told that Olds beefed up the ones they put behind the 455s and I currently have a 330 in the car.
Figured I would put this out there and see if anyone on here has any interest in the car before I grit my teeth and start taking it apart.
I did not put this in the "for sale" section, because it technically isn't for sale at this point. I wondered about a possible trade. If this should be in a different forum, please let me know and I will repost it - I am not very familiar with where to put something like this.
#2
Too bad it is not a 2-door or it would be gone. I hope somebody picks it up because it does look like a pretty nice old car. I hate to see any old car this nice being parted or crushed. Being in Idaho is probably not going to help you chances.
#3
A word of caution on the Turbo 400 swap - I am not positive but i think most big cars used a long tail where as a Cutlass would have a short tail. Since yours was swapped in you'll have to check what you have. Some of the big cars also had the speedo cable going to the front wheel & not the transmission.
#4
@ redoldsman - I agree on all points. Glad you understand my moral dilema. Idaho has it's disadvantages - a lack of oldsmobile lovers being one of them.
@droptopron - seems you know a bit about this - please allow me to prey on your knowledge/experience. I don't know where the engine and trans that are in the car came from. I suspect the engine is out of a 64 as it has shaft mounted rocker arms. The trans I have no idea - it is a TH400 though.
Did olds beef up the TH400 that went behind the 455 or was I misinformed (I was told different plate/clutch packs and a few other beefed up components)? I will look this weekend about the speedometer cable, tailshaft length, and driveline length. Thank you for the heads up.
@droptopron - seems you know a bit about this - please allow me to prey on your knowledge/experience. I don't know where the engine and trans that are in the car came from. I suspect the engine is out of a 64 as it has shaft mounted rocker arms. The trans I have no idea - it is a TH400 though.
Did olds beef up the TH400 that went behind the 455 or was I misinformed (I was told different plate/clutch packs and a few other beefed up components)? I will look this weekend about the speedometer cable, tailshaft length, and driveline length. Thank you for the heads up.
#5
Wow - that thing looks like a pretty easy resto candidate! Finding a headliner that good and such low rust is very rare.
It looks way too good and complete to part out.
I sure hope you can find an engine elsewhere and sell the Delmont...
Or keep it for just this purpose...![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If you want this moved to a different forum, any of the mods can do that for you. Just let us know where you want it. It is fine here for now.
It looks way too good and complete to part out.
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Or keep it for just this purpose...
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If you want this moved to a different forum, any of the mods can do that for you. Just let us know where you want it. It is fine here for now.
#7
the 68 should have the 9" tail shaft, not the short tail like a cutlass.
Now, one of the achilles heals of the th400 is the direct drum, which houses the 3rd gear/reverse drive clutch. The drum itself is a very strong piece. however, the intermediate sprag set up located to the rear of the drum is a weak link. some of my earlier blog post’s from way back address the different drums over the years so i am not going to rehash all of it. from the factory there were two styles- shown here is a pre 1971 drum with 16 element lug type sprag. 71 and later had 8 rollers…and they let loose and explode in heavy duty or race application. so, you want to start off with an early model drum. you then can get an aftermarket 34 element borg warner sprag that fits the older drum. the more lugs there are- the more it evenly spreads the load. when in 1st gear, the direct drum spins the opposite direction as engine rotation. to hit second gear, this drum comes to a dead stop to give you planetary action to create second gear. that shock load is immense in a racing application….and it’s not a matter if rather than a matter of when it will explode the roller clutch. in normal driving conditions….and to be honest anything up to 400 hp nbot using a trans brake or manually shifting….will usually handle a stock roller clutch. for full manual, trans brake, or heavy hauling, the 34 element sprag upgrade is a must. as a matter a fact on the 4L80 transmissions they went back to the 34 element lug sprag. i have been told the 4L80 drum and sprag assembly will interchange with an older 400 but never tried it as a total assy.
Now, one of the achilles heals of the th400 is the direct drum, which houses the 3rd gear/reverse drive clutch. The drum itself is a very strong piece. however, the intermediate sprag set up located to the rear of the drum is a weak link. some of my earlier blog post’s from way back address the different drums over the years so i am not going to rehash all of it. from the factory there were two styles- shown here is a pre 1971 drum with 16 element lug type sprag. 71 and later had 8 rollers…and they let loose and explode in heavy duty or race application. so, you want to start off with an early model drum. you then can get an aftermarket 34 element borg warner sprag that fits the older drum. the more lugs there are- the more it evenly spreads the load. when in 1st gear, the direct drum spins the opposite direction as engine rotation. to hit second gear, this drum comes to a dead stop to give you planetary action to create second gear. that shock load is immense in a racing application….and it’s not a matter if rather than a matter of when it will explode the roller clutch. in normal driving conditions….and to be honest anything up to 400 hp nbot using a trans brake or manually shifting….will usually handle a stock roller clutch. for full manual, trans brake, or heavy hauling, the 34 element sprag upgrade is a must. as a matter a fact on the 4L80 transmissions they went back to the 34 element lug sprag. i have been told the 4L80 drum and sprag assembly will interchange with an older 400 but never tried it as a total assy.
#9
I have no idea what the deal with the seats is. The front seats are black and the rear seats are torn up, yet the light colored carpet, headliner and seat belts look like they have been vacuum sealed for the last 40 years. I would love to find another 455 and not part this car out, but oldsmobile 455s are not in abundance here and I spent the money I had set aside for the motor (plus some) on the car (no money in budget right now to pick up another engine and retain this car).
Thanks for the tips on the transmission. Modifying the cross member is no big deal. Making a new cross member would also be no big deal. If I read your post correct I should have an early model TH400 (pre 1971) which I can put the borg warner 34 element sprag in. Also - if I will be taking the trans apart, can I not just swap the output shaft and housings at that time to result in the use of the 1968 trans, the updated sprag and the short tailshaft?
Alternatively, could I not install the trans with the longer tailshaft in place, adjust the location of the crossmember to suit, and put a shortened driveshaft in it? To be honest, the driveline is also a concern as I will be putting the toque from a 455 down a shaft from a 330 car. I know doing so will result in larger u-joint angles, which will shorten their life, but I don't plan on building the engine up much. I figure about 400 HP and 550 ft-lb (give or take a little) should be ok for a cruiser car. I have no track close by so building a car all out is not reasonable as I would have to trailer it to race it. My car only goes on a trailer if it's broke and I can't fix it where it sits :-)
Thanks for the tips on the transmission. Modifying the cross member is no big deal. Making a new cross member would also be no big deal. If I read your post correct I should have an early model TH400 (pre 1971) which I can put the borg warner 34 element sprag in. Also - if I will be taking the trans apart, can I not just swap the output shaft and housings at that time to result in the use of the 1968 trans, the updated sprag and the short tailshaft?
Alternatively, could I not install the trans with the longer tailshaft in place, adjust the location of the crossmember to suit, and put a shortened driveshaft in it? To be honest, the driveline is also a concern as I will be putting the toque from a 455 down a shaft from a 330 car. I know doing so will result in larger u-joint angles, which will shorten their life, but I don't plan on building the engine up much. I figure about 400 HP and 550 ft-lb (give or take a little) should be ok for a cruiser car. I have no track close by so building a car all out is not reasonable as I would have to trailer it to race it. My car only goes on a trailer if it's broke and I can't fix it where it sits :-)
#10
FYI, I have run a buick 455 with TH400 longshaft in a 69 skylark, and all I did was build my own driveshaft in the driveway with a bit of know how and a stick welder. Never had any vibration either. I think I still have that shaft around too. Never gave me any trouble.
Just letting you know it can be done that way. You have to be very careful to get the two pieces centered properly, and if you don't know how to do this, have it done by a driveshaft shop just to be safe.
-Jeff
Just letting you know it can be done that way. You have to be very careful to get the two pieces centered properly, and if you don't know how to do this, have it done by a driveshaft shop just to be safe.
-Jeff
#12
Wish I had more room in the toy box, that would be a perfect match. I think the seats have been burned by believe it or not...the sun. I have a section on my rear seat that has the same issue except you can see where the seatbelt was sitting for years.
#13
Just try selling it, you will find yourself pulling that big block for your car.
Allot of talk on saving it ,or restoring it here, but know one offering to buy it.
I don't mean to be a downer, it is a nice car! just pull the engine and be happy!
Allot of talk on saving it ,or restoring it here, but know one offering to buy it.
I don't mean to be a downer, it is a nice car! just pull the engine and be happy!
#14
Likely the engine will get pulled, trim pieces/emblems removed and offered for sale, and the rest sent to scrap. There is no market for such a car anywhere near where I live and I just can't have another vehicle. Just thought I would give someone on here a chance to trade if they were interested. I wasn't banking on anyone taking it. The heads ups I received on the swap are worth the time monitoring the post. Also - you just never know unless you ask.
As far as selling the car outright - I probably wouldn't get enough money to buy a 455 that I know runs (because I could drive it), a functioning transmission, and all the brackets and accessories (including the AC compressor) that go with it. Just sad to see a piece of history torn apart, but on the other hand - at least someone is getting some use out of it before it is salvaged!
@FATRATMAT - Nice Delmont. If mine were a 2 door I think trading it off would by much easier. Interesting comment about the sun and the seats - I wondered that by couldn't figure out why it was only in certain areas.
As far as selling the car outright - I probably wouldn't get enough money to buy a 455 that I know runs (because I could drive it), a functioning transmission, and all the brackets and accessories (including the AC compressor) that go with it. Just sad to see a piece of history torn apart, but on the other hand - at least someone is getting some use out of it before it is salvaged!
@FATRATMAT - Nice Delmont. If mine were a 2 door I think trading it off would by much easier. Interesting comment about the sun and the seats - I wondered that by couldn't figure out why it was only in certain areas.
#15
Welcome to the site Jack! Just for grins you could try selling it before taking it apart. If you could get enough for it to buy another engine and be worth your time and trouble that would give the car a new lease on life.
I've got several rebuildable 455's in Southwestern Oregon if you ever get over this way. I scan Craigslist a couple times a week and I see 455's come up for sale often in my part of the country. I don't know if you have the funding to go through an engine right now, but if you do then the confidence that you've got a fresh motor that you can drive across country if you chose is nice. John
I've got several rebuildable 455's in Southwestern Oregon if you ever get over this way. I scan Craigslist a couple times a week and I see 455's come up for sale often in my part of the country. I don't know if you have the funding to go through an engine right now, but if you do then the confidence that you've got a fresh motor that you can drive across country if you chose is nice. John
#17
The car does have a 1968 455 with C heads. I am pretty sure they are small valve heads as the car is equipped with a 2 barrel carb. I don't think this is a big deal as I am not trying to squeeze every ounce out of the 455 - just want some respectable power in a driver. Since there were no hardened seats in 68 I will have to have some head work done, at which time I will decide if it is worth the money to enlarge the valves.
#18
They say you won't know the size of the valves
untill you pull the heads. My 69 88 4-door 2-bbl.
had the large valves, go figure...
It was also a factory A/C car too.
I have no idea if that had anything to do with it or not.
untill you pull the heads. My 69 88 4-door 2-bbl.
had the large valves, go figure...
It was also a factory A/C car too.
I have no idea if that had anything to do with it or not.
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November 18th, 2013 12:26 PM