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I'm considering buying a parts car for my project, but it of course has no title. I have no place to just park it "in the back 40" or anything like that. I would have to strip it all the way down and then dispose of the carcass. The wrecking yards here won't take it without a title, so I'm thinking of cutting it up into small manageable pieces of steel and then hauling all of this scrap to a metal recycler.
My question is to those that have done it, what's the preferred method for actually cutting it up? The car is a '62 Olds Cutlass coupe, so it's unibody construction. So, plasma cutter? oxy acetylene? Saws-all? Angle grinder with cutting wheel? Pneumatic shears?
Many scrap places will come and get the carcass. Pop off the vin tag and hold it, sell the body for scrap, they come get, then destroy the tag. I think a metal cutting blade sawzall would be best. A torch would work. Metal cutting blades in grinders are dangerous as all hell.
My question is to those that have done it, what's the preferred method for actually cutting it up? . So, plasma cutter? oxy acetylene? Saws-all? Angle grinder with cutting wheel? Pneumatic shears?
I think a metal cutting blade sawzall would be best. .
I cut an entire 68 convertible up with a sawzall.
There are a million posts of local people picking up scrap metal. Some even pay you for it. FWIW scrap steel is so low right now you won't get enough for a dinner for two. I scrapped a 93 mustang hatch six months ago and got $26.50 and I brought it there on my trailer
My question is to those that have done it, what's the preferred method for actually cutting it up? . So, plasma cutter? oxy acetylene? Saws-all? Angle grinder with cutting wheel? Pneumatic shears?
There are a million posts of local people picking up scrap metal. Some even pay you for it. FWIW scrap steel is so low right now you won't get enough for a dinner for two. I scrapped a 93 mustang hatch six months ago and got $26.50 and I brought it there on my trailer
I don't expect anyone to pick it up from me, or give me any money for it. I realize that scrap steel is almost worthless.
Years ago before plasma cutters were even a thought, I cut up a 70 Nova my son had totaled. I used a sawsall and we hauled the sections to the landfill.
Has anyone used one of these before? I'm intrigued, but it might not be that great. I'm just looking for the fastest and least physically demanding way to get through this car.
Has anyone used one of these before? I'm intrigued, but it might not be that great. I'm just looking for the fastest and least physically demanding way to get through this car.
Not helpful but, I drove past a guy in Richmond Hill cutting up a Cutlass with an axe. I stopped to see if any of his parts would have been useful to me. Not.
I've used several different methods, but prefer the Sawzall. Get the better quality blades, get thicker blades if you have the option. If you hit something in a blind spot the thinner blades will bend or break off where they fit into the saw. If the car isn't rotten you may be surprised at the need for patch panels to others if your willing to ship. But sometimes you need to store the part for a while until someone comes along needing it. John
I became modestly proficient at cleaning house on some automobiles with my buddies back in the day when we entered several demolition derby's. The Sawzall is your friend.
I cut apart many a rusty gen 1 Toronado using a Sawz-all.
Be sure to use high quality bi-metal blades made for cutting metal, and wear heavy leather gloves along with your eye and ear protection.
The fun and education is immeasurable!
I've also used the Sawz-all to cut apart an old, dry gas tank (from gen 1 Toronado) so I could see how the venting system was arranged. If anyone is interested in seeing that, I'll post a new thread.
Here's a suggestion. I know you are in California and things are probably much tighter as for rules,etc but if scrap is down that low, why not put a ad on Craigslist or somewhere and give it away to someone after you have taken what you want off it. Then they can deal with it. If I had a similar 62-63 Cutlass and had some land to put it I would (and did) hold on to carcasses in the "back 40". I lived in a rural area, of course. Back to your question, I used a sawsall and "Torch" blades that are really tough- but expensive- You'll probably spend more on blades than you get back for scrap. Good luck.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm kind of leaning away from buying the whole car now. The car is 900 miles from me and I can't just pop over and have good look at it. He's not asking much for it and so even with the transport cost it kind of makes sense, but the more I look at the pictures, some of the things that were of greater interest to me are now not looking all that great. The guy who has it is willing to part it and ship the parts, so if I can figure out the shipping for large parts, I'll likely go that way instead. If the car were within a reasonable driving distance, I would just go get the whole thing.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm kind of leaning away from buying the whole car now. The car is 900 miles from me and I can't just pop over and have good look at it. He's not asking much for it and so even with the transport cost it kind of makes sense, but the more I look at the pictures, some of the things that were of greater interest to me are now not looking all that great. The guy who has it is willing to part it and ship the parts, so if I can figure out the shipping for large parts, I'll likely go that way instead. If the car were within a reasonable driving distance, I would just go get the whole thing.
I've shipped large parts like doors, fenders and seats through Greyhound bus lines. You can go online and get an estimate.
John
I've shipped large parts like doors, fenders and seats through Greyhound bus lines. You can go online and get an estimate.
John
I've heard about them and I've also heard horror stories about them. I've heard people have had to wait months to get their stuff because it was lost and also I've heard that stuff has been lost for good and they will only insure to $100. I guess the problem is, your stuff can be kicked off the bus at any stop based on people actually riding the bus with their luggage. What happens after that is only as good as the people that give a damn. Apparently their tracking ability sucks and you can get burned.
It looks like I'm back on with the parts car and having to cut it up. The majority here seem to favor the Sawsall method and a few used oxy-acetelyne, but has anyone tried a plasma cutter?
plasma is good on flat steel,but something like an A pillar a sawzall is probably gonna be your best bet.
Agreed. I'm thinking more than one tool for the job. I have a Sawsall and I have an acetylene torch. I've just always wanted a plasma cutter, but couldn't justify the expense. This might be a good excuse to get one. However if it's useless for this purpose, that would suck.
A real name brand reciprocating saw with something like the Morse Fire and Rescue blade. Only needed three blades to cut up a titleless Alero last Fall. My $99 Dewalt has cut up 3 or 4 vehicles over the years.
March 23rd, 2020, 01:17 PM
