Any Carb nuts in here? Could use some wisdom
August 29th, 2012, 07:29 PM
#1
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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Any Carb nuts in here? Could use some wisdom
Sooo, the 70 S I bought came from a kid and to my knowledge he did only two things to it himself, A radio change (good radio, crappy wiring 
) and carb swap. I assume the kid might have just had lukewarm feet when it came to having to hardcore mess with mechanical stuff (Carbs are scary like that if you dont know 'em, you know?) Anywho heres my situation, of all the carbs he put on it he slapped on a Holley 0-80457S 600cfm, which is okay, but its the version of the 600 that according to Holley has the "'Next Gen' needle and seat that doesn't require require external adjustments" :/ But thats bull of course, the floats are too high on the little bugger. Apparently a lot of people have had this problem, BUT since its the new and improved honkey nonsense (that apparently doesnt need to be adjusted) no one's turned up diddly on the specifics to lowering the floats on it. Im asking if anyone around here has the knowledge I so require on the steps of how to lower the floats on this specific carb once I pop off the fuel bowls. Seeing how Carburetor is french word for lots of tiny holes that are not to be @#$%ed with, Id figure Id ask for a pros steps first 
) and carb swap. I assume the kid might have just had lukewarm feet when it came to having to hardcore mess with mechanical stuff (Carbs are scary like that if you dont know 'em, you know?) Anywho heres my situation, of all the carbs he put on it he slapped on a Holley 0-80457S 600cfm, which is okay, but its the version of the 600 that according to Holley has the "'Next Gen' needle and seat that doesn't require require external adjustments" :/ But thats bull of course, the floats are too high on the little bugger. Apparently a lot of people have had this problem, BUT since its the new and improved honkey nonsense (that apparently doesnt need to be adjusted) no one's turned up diddly on the specifics to lowering the floats on it. Im asking if anyone around here has the knowledge I so require on the steps of how to lower the floats on this specific carb once I pop off the fuel bowls. Seeing how Carburetor is french word for lots of tiny holes that are not to be @#$%ed with, Id figure Id ask for a pros steps first
Last edited by Bacchus; August 29th, 2012 at 07:31 PM.
August 29th, 2012, 08:15 PM
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August 29th, 2012, 08:17 PM
#3
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Sooo, the 70 S I bought came from a kid and to my knowledge he did only two things to it himself, A radio change (good radio, crappy wiring ) and carb swap. I assume the kid might have just had lukewarm feet when it came to having to hardcore mess with mechanical stuff (Carbs are scary like that if you dont know 'em, you know?) Anywho heres my situation, of all the carbs he put on it he slapped on a Holley 0-80457S 600cfm, which is okay, but its the version of the 600 that according to Holley has the "'Next Gen' needle and seat that doesn't require require external adjustments" :/ But thats bull of course, the floats are too high on the little bugger. Apparently a lot of people have had this problem, BUT since its the new and improved honkey nonsense (that apparently doesnt need to be adjusted) no one's turned up diddly on the specifics to lowering the floats on it. Im asking if anyone around here has the knowledge I so require on the steps of how to lower the floats on this specific carb once I pop off the fuel bowls. Seeing how Carburetor is french word for lots of tiny holes that are not to be @#$%ed with, Id figure Id ask for a pros steps first
) and carb swap. I assume the kid might have just had lukewarm feet when it came to having to hardcore mess with mechanical stuff (Carbs are scary like that if you dont know 'em, you know?) Anywho heres my situation, of all the carbs he put on it he slapped on a Holley 0-80457S 600cfm, which is okay, but its the version of the 600 that according to Holley has the "'Next Gen' needle and seat that doesn't require require external adjustments" :/ But thats bull of course, the floats are too high on the little bugger. Apparently a lot of people have had this problem, BUT since its the new and improved honkey nonsense (that apparently doesnt need to be adjusted) no one's turned up diddly on the specifics to lowering the floats on it. Im asking if anyone around here has the knowledge I so require on the steps of how to lower the floats on this specific carb once I pop off the fuel bowls. Seeing how Carburetor is french word for lots of tiny holes that are not to be @#$%ed with, Id figure Id ask for a pros steps first What are the symptoms that are leading towards bad float height?
August 29th, 2012, 09:07 PM
#4
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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Flooding.Quadrajets are nice, but Im a little poor atm. Spent the other day tuning what I know how to tune, had the old man with me for an extra pair of hands, cleaned her up quite a bit. Everytime we cut it the engine the fuel naturally boils up a touch and blurts some fuel out. So, we figured the floats are a touch too high and possibly the cause for flooding. Im almost thinking about not messing with it seeings how a buddy of mine is offering up his 650.
I wasnt able to tune every detail of the carb because the battery died :/ there goes another 100 bucks for tomorrow. OH stupid me, I should probably backtrack a bit, she died a while ago with a weak battery - I deffffinately flooded it trying to start her back up
- but I dont know if the initial cause of death was the was the fact that the battery was dead or if the carb wasnt happy with the fact that it had a cold engine for once (night in early august around here doesnt get too cold so engines never really have a problem with coldstart, but this was a pretty chilly night) When I replace the battery tomorrow I should be able to see how she acts, if she floods again then Ill see if its the floats
I wasnt able to tune every detail of the carb because the battery died :/ there goes another 100 bucks for tomorrow. OH stupid me, I should probably backtrack a bit, she died a while ago with a weak battery - I deffffinately flooded it trying to start her back up
- but I dont know if the initial cause of death was the was the fact that the battery was dead or if the carb wasnt happy with the fact that it had a cold engine for once (night in early august around here doesnt get too cold so engines never really have a problem with coldstart, but this was a pretty chilly night) When I replace the battery tomorrow I should be able to see how she acts, if she floods again then Ill see if its the floats
August 29th, 2012, 11:17 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 782
get rid of it. if you want it to have any mid range power at all, put a 700 or 750 on it, being as a Q-jet is a 750 (generally speaking) put one of those on it. I have a 850 holley double pumper on my 455, and its completely streetable. but the mileage sucks, q-jet kits are cheap, if you dont have the q-jet anymore, go to the wrecking yard and find around a 1980 chevy pickup with a qjet on it, if it has a blue plug, your in the money, if it has a blue plug, and a white plug, stay away.
August 30th, 2012, 06:33 AM
#6
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Here's the directions on installing your carb.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...7948-5rev5.pdf
What manifold are you running with it?
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...7948-5rev5.pdf
What manifold are you running with it?
August 30th, 2012, 07:59 AM
#7
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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Man got real happy with some of those directions until I realized the part where it said for adjustable fuel bowl models only. And the manifold I'm running is an Ede performer RPM
August 30th, 2012, 04:47 PM
#9
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Okay, so battery dropped in, starts up great. But the problem know is when I shut her off she doesnt wanna die, she'll sit there and spit and flutter probably due to the access fuel that I saw spurting out when I first started tuning is just boiling out and she just keeps drinking. Coincidentally, my car is an alcoholic... :/
Last edited by Bacchus; August 30th, 2012 at 04:51 PM.
August 30th, 2012, 05:31 PM
#10
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Location: Dahlonega, GA
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to adjust the floats you have to pull the fuel bowls. you change them by bending the arm on the float. generally the top of the float will be level with the top of the bowl. if that is were it is you can lower it a small amount and see what happens. it may also be the setup. if you are seeing fuel drip from the boosters when it is running then the butterflies are too far open taking it out of the idle circuit.
August 30th, 2012, 05:34 PM
#11
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BTW what engine is in this? if it is a stock 350 the 600 is plenty. yes quadrajets are 750 cfm but on smaller motors the factory set it up so the air valve controls the air flow and they never really see all 750 on a stock small block.
August 31st, 2012, 06:45 AM
#12
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Before you tear it apart, what is your idle speed, what is your timing? Because both can effect the way it turns off, when it's deiseling, it will cough up fuel, because there is still vacuum drawing it out.
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