ELECMAN

Looks like I have the orignally steel frame hood on the car it looks like somebody bonded the fiberglass to the steel frame.Bad job there are to spots on both sides that dip down lower then the fender line If you look in this pic it just above the hood pin going towards the windshield..i was wondering if this could be fixed.or is there a new fiberglass top that would bond with out any problems thanks.

oldsdroptop

I have 1 of the orignal hoods and setting 2 feet away is 1 of the $420 aftermarket complete fiberglass hoods from Brothers. You can tell around the air inductions around the openings that there is a defined difference in the 2 hoods. The questions is: is this car worth spending from $1500 to $2000 for the rear deal or is this more of a driver quality car that a $500 hood would do the trick. The car I have the orignal hood on is a show quality car with $8000 in paint on it and has been driven about 100 miles in the last 10 years. So that's what you must decide. Are you all in. Or is this just something you want to drive and enjoy. What kind of return on investment are looking for and how original and how much documentation does the car have these are all questions you have to ask yourself. My driver quality SX ( 1 of 793 built for 1970 with the aftermarket hood has the orginal build sheet, protecto plate and window sticker (over $5400, every available option but underdash 8 track player) when it was new. It still has everything original but the hood, wheels and rear wing spoiler which can always be put back to original very easily. It's an investment but I drive and ebjoy it about 25 times or so every summer. Good luck on your decision. I hope I was able to help you figure out what you want to buy to do what you want to do with this car. Oldsdroptop

ELECMAN

Thanks for the info oldsdroptop.it makes sense when you think about it.