When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
100k for incorrect stripes on the sides and the deck lid. It has Cutlass tail lights. Terrible fit all the way around.. Just a couple things I notice right away. Why is it so difficult to get W stripes right? Does that block stamp look legit?
Last edited by no1oldsfan; Mar 10, 2021 at 04:13 PM.
That stamp doesn't even look like a stamp. It looks like a raised embossed deal. Totally incorrect.
It's at least a 442 by the VIN, but that's all. Couldn't tell if it's a genuine W car. Transmission tag and stampings, if true, may be something to consider. At least that stamp looks more close to a stamping vs that block fiasco. The paperwork can be reproduced. And paperwork that looks that cruddy makes me wonder what the rest of the car looked like prior to restoration. The stripes SUCK. Someone obviously didn't do ANY homework. The 442 emblem holes all around have been redrilled incorrectly which puts the emblems with incorrect alignment/spacing. To me, those sort of details matter for that kind of money.
That said, I'd cruise this missile around town no problem, but not at 95K.
That stamp doesn't even look like a stamp. It looks like a raised embossed deal. Totally incorrect.
It's an optical illusion based on the angle of the light. We've had a similar discussion here before. It isn't possible to get raised characters on the block stamp surface.
And I wasn't claiming you were claiming that. I was just pointing out the discrepancy with a stamping that probably shouldn't even have been there in the first place. If you replace a block, to me it's not prudent to restamp a non-original engine with the car's original stamping. It's not like it's a casting number.
But raised numbers have been done before. Chris Witt used to make "fake" 69 H/O intakes and F heads with reconstructed raised numberings. But he also advertised them as such.
But raised numbers have been done before. Chris Witt used to make "fake" 69 H/O intakes and F heads with reconstructed raised numberings. But he also advertised them as such.
Big difference between creating molded raised characters using JB Weld and sand on a cast intake that's then painted and creating metallic raised characters on a bare cast iron machined pad. And let's be serious here. Anyone who knows enough to put a fake VIN derivative on a block also knows that the VIN derivative is a stamp, not raised cast characters.
Then again, you'd also expect them to know which way the valve covers go, so there's that...
Big difference between creating molded raised characters using JB Weld and sand on a cast intake that's then painted and creating metallic raised characters on a bare cast iron machined pad. And let's be serious here. Anyone who knows enough to put a fake VIN derivative on a block also knows that the VIN derivative is a stamp, not raised cast characters.
Then again, you'd also expect them to know which way the valve covers go, so there's that...
I get that. The font comment was meant to be tongue-in-cheek. There's a lot of things to pick on this car for a $100K bill some unfortunate soul paid too much for. Whoever created these flaws on this car obviously didn't have much of a clue of what they were trying to recreate. It would be one thing to do it for your own self. People can paint crappy looking stripes on the car and fake stamp the replacement block if they wish, just don't try and pass them off as correct when trying to sell. I guess these unscrupulous and/or clueless restorers know that the people that know the cars can pick it apart and likely pass, but those that don't know any better get duped into thinking something is something that it's not, despite warnings to the same.
The transmission tag and stamp derivative would need further inspection, but at first glance they seem to be genuine-looking. Spacing/depth/alignment seem to be in order.
My luck if I tried to fake the numbers and put crappy stripe job and number piercings, I couldn't get $30K out of the car.
Why does the car have a 3.23:1 axle ratio. I thought W30's without A/C came with 3.42 or 3.91. I dont see a G91 call out on the window invoice
Likely for the same reason that my 70 W30 4spd had a 3.08 anti-spin in it when I got it. Lots of people swapped out rear axles in the mid-70s during the gas crisis. FYI, a 4spd and 3.08s don't make for clutch longevity. Of course, neither did the five grand holeshots.
They disclosed during the sale that the block was a restamp.. they were upfront on that.
I guess that makes it all ok, then.
If you're going to bother to fake it, at least try to get it closer to correct. There's no good reason on earth you would want to restamp that pad other than to make the unsuspecting think that it's a "numbers matching" engine. It's one thing for an owner to do it for him/herself just because. But it seems to me the seller is in this to make a buck from the get-go. Makes you wonder what else was half-assed.
