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If you can’t find a correct replacement part, it shouldn’t be that hard to fabricate something that will work functionally until you can find the exact right thing.
Remember that in those years, aerodynamics weren’t understood to the same level of detail that we know now. Not to denigrate the engineers of the day, but “good enough” was, given the limitations of the day “good enough”.
Having said that, my ‘66’s have front radiator rubber curtains that force air through the radiator core and my guess is they contribute 30% or more to keeping the engine cool. Just my way of saying they were on the right track.
If it were me I’d aim for physically similar parts, homebrew or otherwise and wait for the exact right parts to become available.
Aerodynamics were plenty understood in the 60s; the requirements of the time were different. People think engineers always make something the best they can; we don't, often it is "acceptable performance for least investment."
I solved the problem with my 1967 cutlass supreme with a brand new 455 running too hot this winter.
I would like to take a second to do a shout out to Koda and Joe P who gave the tough love I needed. Yes, I was throwing parts at the car and nothing was working. The car was normal until you turned on the ac and at a red light the needle looked somethng like a speedometer. . Also a shout out to Larry L. in California who took the time and exlpained tthe probelms in the engine compartment via phone.
When a pilot crashes, it is not just one mistiake but multiple mistakes.. We call this swiss cheese when the holes line up.
Promblem #, I removed the fan plate on top of the radiator. The fan plat at the top of the raidator is another hole in the cheese. The shrould has been fabricated to fit over my electric fans. This lowered the temp but did not do as much as needed. Having said as much, I love the electric fans because there is no strain at idle, (650 rpm) and the car feels much lighter. using the puller fans.
Problem#2: I got ride of the pusher fans, they are a waste of time and money.
Problem#3 : The covering over the control arm on the fenders were tucked under the wheel well.. They were tucked under the wheel well and forgot when the shop installed the headers. This was a five minute fiix.
Promblem #4....I did 't even know this but a 1967 had a optin for an aid dams. Fortunate for me, Larry L. in California had a used one in excellent shape.
Problem #6....using infared thermostat, it is showing that temperature is about 5-7 degrees cooler than my dials. Next month I am going to put a temp gauge in the cabin directly tired to the engine block..
Problem#5....And this one made the biggest difference. There a two vertical structures on the left and right of the radiator. I looked around my grarage and found a 6 inch pool noodle. I wish they were black or red but that's another day. After I cut them to size, they squeezed into the space behind the head lights which make and excelent air seal. There are two structures on both sides of the radiator and they are ment to hold up the vertical air dams. I filled in all those spaces with pool noodle matrial.
It's not pretty but damn it works!
I drove the car in 95 degree heat in traffic and we only get up to 205 degree with the ac runninlg. Problem solved
I've got one more question. I am in Texas where a good part of the time it is 100 degree or more. In the chaos of pulling and replacing parts, I removed the thermostat. I would like to replace the thermostate. Please suggest: 160.180,or 190. Whis is best fo Texasr heat? WE get freeky cold in the winter but it's short. We get very long summers that melt everything. Any thermostat suggestions?
