hello!
before i commit to buy this, can you please just confirm that it's definitely an Olds 455 motor?
Looks like one to me but hey, what do i know!!

 

We need pics or the numbers behind the waterpump area. If the group of numbers ends with a letter it is a big block, I think the 455's have an F.

 

If you meant to show pictures there not showing up. Get the numbers off the top of the block right behind the water pump and the letter of the left side of the head just to left side of the spark plug. That will tell what you have

 

haha sorry, forgot to add the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=p5197.c0.m619

 

Still can't really tell for sure, but it does have the tall deck so it is a big block. color says it is a 455. Look at the area below the water inlet on the intake. If there is a big F on the right side, it is a 455.

 

Appears to have J heads so it most likely is a 73 or later 455. Those heads are not so desireable.......

 

Thanks for getting back to me.
Would it give me any problems fitting into my car?
What are the negatives regarding J heads?

 

You can make power with them, they just need some port work. One of the guys has them on a 455 in a G body running low 12's on a generic cam. He may not be on this board though.

 

Yes its a 455 with J heads 73 or newer with low compression pistons. Nothing wrong with it. Still has lots of torque. Can be built up to be a real runner if your going to build it anyway.

 

From the Q&A at the bottom of the ad:

Also, the cast iron EGR intake with "OLDSMOBILE" on the front runner pegs this as a 1973-74 455.

 

For that money...BUY IT.
The J heads only came with a 1.995 inch intake valve, but you can have 2.072's installed.
Buy it, bolt it in, and drive it!
That's what I think.
Jim

 

Transmission will bolt up from your car with no problems. The exhaust from your car (if it is a small block) won't work. All wireing will hook up, fuel line will hook up, throttle linkage will work, (might have to do minor modifications to linkage). Use your current motor mounts. Mostly a very easy swap into the big car chassis.

 

cool! cheers for the info guys
have agreed to buy for £200.

I was going to take my 425 engine out and rebuild over the winter but was having problems with storage as the car would need to come off the road. This way I can rebuild the 455 over the winter and keep the car running until the swap over day!!!

Sweet

 

Since you have a 425 in the car now, everything is a bolt in swap. Both engines are exactly the same outside.

 

Does that mean the gasket kit i bought for the 425 will fit the new engine?
Result if it does!!!

Do I need to change the cooling system in any way?

 

Everything will work. No changes necessary to anything.

 

Use the water pump and pulleys from the 425 and you're golden. No need to change the belts or hoses.

 

How about the intake?
My 425 has an Edelbrock Performer fitted.
Should i stick with the original cast iron version or swap it over for the Ed?

 

Swap away.

 

The Edelbrock will give you more overall performance plus save a lot of weight.

 

just been having a search around the net for info and parts etc and have come across this article: http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_...de/index3.html

It states that my engine is in fact a 1968-1971, and if their numbering method is correct it puts it in the year of 1969.

Is this likely to be true?

 

Flywheel bolt pattern will be an issue. But if the 455 has the flywheel your all set.
Dave

 

OK, just found the actual serial number for the engine. It's 35R110516 (396021Fa)

This dates it as 1975, can anyone tell me what car this was likely to have been from and the HP of the stock set up?

So far from what i've read in various forums this is potentially a pretty terrible combination and I may be better off spending money on the 425 instead ??

Cheers guys

 

Did you buy the engine? The link indicated it was sold.

 

yeah, went to collect it and he also gave me all the ancillaries plus x2 quadrajets and an HEI dizzy :-)

 

Dan, its up to you. If your going to rebuild the engine you could put in the compression pistons you want and install larger valves in the heads. I think either the 425 or the 455 would be a good engine for you car. One difference might be more availability of parts for the 455 than an early 425 for things like pistons and cam shafts. I believe being a 1965 425 your factory engine would have the more uncommon pushrod angle. When I purchased pistons and a cam for my 1965 442 project with the 400 engine that's what I was faced with, more expensive and fewer options.

Congrats finding the 455 with parts on that side of the pond!

 

hello!
upon reflection, to be honest i think convenience will play a big role, since the 455 is already on a stand and the car is useable i think i'll build the 455 and keep the 425 stock for when i sell the car. And yes my 425 has the 45 degree angle so hard to get bits for.

as always, please forgive my naivety on this subject, i'm just trying to build up an understanding of the situation before i approach any engine shops over here as it's very easy to get blagged and before you know it they've taken you for every penny you have!

So, for a relatively straightforward upgrade to this engine it will require:

Larger Intake Valves
High Comp Pistons
Aftermarket Intake (already got)
Edelbrock performer Cam??

 

I think that is a solid idea, good luck in your efforts.

 

cheers!
so, the inevitable questions follow...

Intake valves, i'll go for 2.072...
Edelbrock components speak for themselves...
Pistons... i'm gonna need to take some advice on these if possible please!
What compression ratio should i look for and what's a half decent option in terms of make/brand/cast/forged etc...?

I know it's a cliche, but my budget isn't huge. The car also doesn't really cover a large number of miles in a year, so not sure if that would make a difference?

Thank you :-)

 

for instance....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

and this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Olds-...Q5fAccessories

 

sorry about this guys, here's another
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oldsm...Q5fAccessories

 

Dan, can you share with us what the octane rating is on gas in your country? That can make a difference on how high of a compression ratio you go.

John

 

Just don't forget that octane ratings are different over there than over here, as discussed here just the other day...

- Eric

 

I had missed that thread Eric, but yes Dan needs to consider what octane he'll be running before deciding what compression of pistions to purchase.
John

 

Well, the lowest we have is 95 which is our standard unleaded (at £1.20 per litre!!!) and then we have Super Unleaded which is 97 (£1.29 per litre).

Since my 425 is high compression i've always opted for the 97 anyway with the occasional half tank of 95. Not sure if it's placebo effect but the car always seems to run much better with a full tank of 97 though.

Leaded fuel is long gone over here, there are additives available but I've not seen the need for this yet as the 97 seems to do well, albeit bloody expensive!!