1994ina1976

So can anyone tell me the difference between a 1976 cutlass S and a 1976 cutlass 442. Mine has the 350, dual exhaust but an automatic. I've got a YouTube video of my car if it helps. Also I wanted to know opinions of the edelbrock carb and intake swap with the upgraded cam. It's the 7111pk listed on the site.

Fun71

I wouldn't switch the carb, but that's just me liking QuadraJets so much.

From the web site, that cam is fairly large for your 8.5:1 compression ratio:

Operating Range: 1500-6500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 290° Intake/300° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'': 224° Intake/234° Exhaust
Lift @ Valve: .496'' Intake/.520'' Exhaust

I am not an engine building or cam expert, but I think there are a lot of cams that are better suited for your engine. The factory cam is very small, so even an RV type cam (204º) would be an improvement while maintaining a useable power range. That 224/290 duration cam would likely kill your bottom end power, especially without a looser torque converter and/or lower rear gears. Something in the 210º to 215º range would probably be much better.

1994ina1976

Thanks for the reply, I'm wanting to get some more power out of the engine and so far the edelbrock carb and intake is the best set up that I have found. I like the quadrajet that's on there but at 40 years old. I'm thinking its time for an upgrade. I guess I could look into rebuilding it in order to save it. She is just a little sluggish. What would be your recommendation to make the most of the 350?

joe_padavano

Absolutely nothing. In 1976 the 442 package was a suspension and appearance option only. It was available with any engine that you could get in the Cutlass. 350/TH350 was the most common drivetrain. Dual exhaust is not factory, as they all came with a single catalyst from the factory.

Fun71

I don't think the carb and intake change will affect your power levels by any measurable amount. The QJet is a 750 cfm carb and as long as it is working properly it will provide good performance while maintaining economy and driveability. The aftermarket intake manifold won't really do much for a basically stock engine; you would need a lot of performance improvements to actually need a better intake.

New isn't necessarily equal to upgrade. As I said, I don't think you will gain anything from a different carb (unless your has some major issues). It's not like you will get 20 more horsepower by swapping a properly running QJet to an aftermarket carb.

That would be a good idea. If you can't do it yourself, there are some very good rebuilders who can make it work like new again.

That could be from a lot of things - needing a basic tune-up, vacuum leak, ignition problems, fuel delivery, etc, etc, etc. If the engine is actually running well and it doesn't seem like you have much performance, see below about rearend gear ratios.

Ensure it is running properly. Tune up, carb in good condition (rebuild if necessary) and adjusted properly, free flowing exhaust system to begin with. After that, look at your rear gears. They are likely 2.56 or even 2.41 ratios. Just replacing those gears with a lower ratio would make it feel like your engine got a boost in power. Way back in the '80s I replaced the 2.56 rear in my '70 Cutlass with a 3.08 rear and it felt like I had a new, more powerful engine. Then later I replaced the 3.08s with 3.55s and again it felt like a power increase.

As for that cam you linked, I think it would be too large for your engine's compression ratio. At 8.5:1 or so, you can easily overcam the engine and make it feel less powerful than it is now. You need to remain fairly conservative with the cam unless you raise the compression ratio.

76olds

When I started with my 76 cutlass, I put an ebrock performer with the ebrock 600cfm carb, Didn't notice much off the seat of my pants.
I joined CO shortly after and learned this..., did my rear end with 3:42 rear gears along with an eaton posi just as Kenneth (fun71) mentioned.
The best change I ever did was the rear (bang for the buck)
I then put a pair of Hedmann shorty headers along with 2 1/4 duals and notice a little change in power and great tone.

Eric

1994ina1976

Hey Eric,
Did you have to buy a new starter for the headers? I read that there were some fit issues. Also how difficult was the eaton possi to install?

76olds

I wouldn't know how difficult it would be to install the rear posi, gears, or install kit. I had a shop do this for me. I purchased all the new parts from Monzaz (Jim@ J.D Race) awesome guy !!
I did purchase a Powermaster # 9610 from Summit Racing along with the Hedman Ceramic coated headers.
Again I had this work done at the same shop. So I'm really unsure if the mini starter is really necessary.
I hope this helps a little.
The only work I done myself was the intake/carb/tune-up stuff/Be-cool rad and the Wilwood brakes.
I wish I could give you a better answer to you ?'s
I hope this helps a little
Eric

76olds

Mac has a great thread going " Gearing up for gear change" he is doing his rear gears as we speak, That would be a great thread to follow along. Kenneth (fun 71), coppercutlass and others are helping out with great tips.
As for the starter if finances allow I would purchase the mini starter for the reduction in weight alone, I read over on 73-77 Olds forum that guys mentioned the factory starter cleared.
Cheers
Eric

Allan R

Just a point of clarification for 1976. The 442 option was only offered on the Cutlass S model that year.

1994ina1976

Thanks for all the feedback Eric, it's definitely on my to do list for this car. I don't quite remember where I saw that the the stock starter wouldn't fit. I will be buying one, just not too soon. This starter is only about a year old. I'm gonna try and find that thread on gears. Thanks

quaddriver

who would not love that face....I was 12 years old and drooled and then the folks got a 77 R motor'd one...got to drive it 3 times when I got my license....

1994ina1976

I certainly like how mine looks. I was just wondering why I always had to type in 76 442 to see the body style I have