Curts1970cutlass

Just recieved my OEM dipstick tube for my 1970 Cutlass 350. Whoever had the car before me and installed the headers never replaced the dipstick tube. Has anyone put a dipstick tube back into the block? Whats the best plan of attack. Im hopoing it will just go back in easily. I know I have to make sure i get both grooves into the block for a secure fit. Any suggestions would help for a smooth installation.

Thanks

Octania

ha ha ha
easily
with headers
oh, yah sure

The reason it's out is because anytime the engine or headers have to move, that thing is in the way. Total PITA.

Removal of the starter might help see what is going on at the block. You can GENTLY tap the bulges smaller [OD] with a hammer. Some folks say file or grind, but I hate to REMOVE material there. If you don't, you may find that the tube is too tight in the block and it won't go in all the way w/o bending or mangling. If you have a spare block to test fit on, that would be great. Put a bolt in the top of the tube to tap it into place with. Use a tiny bit of sealer like Form A Gasket [***].

I'd recommend fabricating a brace to secure the upper end to a header bolt. Keep it from bending around and breaking off. A bent stainless wire about 1/8" dia. would be fine. Or a stainless line clamp like marine repair places use.

To really do it right, I have drilled and tapped a hole in the block, so a set screw can reside between the two bulges on the tube. Then, removal is easy, IF you remember to undo the set screw.

Indy_68_S

I don't know about your headers or tube, but with my thick-flanged Sandersons there was no way to get my tube back in the block without bending/breaking/snapping it with the headers on.

To seat it in the block I used a small open end wrench that fit snugly on the tube but held the 'ring' on the tube and lightly tapped the wrench with a hammer.

Curts1970cutlass

So with the wrench technique were you able to reisntall with the headers on?

Indy_68_S

No. I had to partially install the tube (loose enough to swivel for final position) and slip the headers over it....

Allan R

There's not a lot of room to work with - I've seen Curt's car.
Disconnect the battery first.
You can try using the technique Octania suggested about reducing the size of the flanged areas on the tube, but if it's the proper tube, it should fit no problem without having to have the flanges reduced though. I like the idea of using a small bolt in the tube to tap it down into place. Work slowly and don't try to crush the tube in with huge hammer blows. You might want to put some oil onto the end you're tapping in - That should help the tube seat easier by reducing friction of steel on steel. The 2 flanges will hold it in place no problem and won't let oil leak past them. Once you have the tube installed bend it slightly away from the headers so it doesn't get blistering hot.

Didn't you pull the dipstick and tube from that 72 parts car you had? It would have been a direct x over.

Curts1970cutlass

No I ordered a new tube. So the screw concept is just to put a screw where the dipstick itself would go so your not tapping on the tube.

Allan R

Just to make sure we're on the same page. Use a BOLT that has a thread just smaller than the ID of the tube. Something that will go into the tube about an inch is fine. Insert the bolt at the top of the dip tube. Tap on the head of the bolt so you don't damage the top of the tube with the hammer. You can steady the tube with your other hand a bit.

Funkwagon455

I'm not really sure about the configuration of the headers that your running, but I have removed a broken dipstick tube with a slide hammer with a lag screw tacked onto the end, and reinstalled a new tube using some grease on the beaded area of the tube, and using a long 1/4 drive extension with 3/8 adapter attached to a standard crows foot tapped in from the topside. It was not really that bad. Good luck

Curts1970cutlass

Going to actually attempt this repair before spring. Trying to figure out if I will need to pull my wheel well plastic to gain access as well as drop starter.(Which i probably will just to clean) I will attempt to get a picture so you can see the amount of room I have.

joe_padavano

Curt,

See my response to your PM. Bottom line is that I've got $10 that says the stub of the old tube is still in the block. That needs to come out first. I use a slide hammer with the appropriate size sheet metal screw. Starter definitely needs to be dropped. Never considered the inner fender.

I've also never had a problem reinstalling the dipstick tube after the headers were bolted to the block.