1968 rear main seal
#4
Rope rear main seal removal is no small task. Even out of car is tough, done quite a few on SB Olds. I saw an in truck done on a 292 Ferd in the shop I worked, which ironically takes the same seal. There was a ridiculous amount of swearing involved and lots of work arounds. Make sure they don't go back to the rope seal and use a neoprene alternative.
#5
If you can find a shop to do the seal in the car I'd figure about 8 hours labor plus $300 in miscellaneous parts e.g., seal, oil and filter, gaskets and motor mounts.
How many miles and has the timing chain/gear set been replaced? If it has over 75k and the chain is original it would probably be best to do a compression test to evaluate the overall engine condition, pull the engine, replace the seal with a neoprene version and replace the chain gear/set. This can snowball into $$$ in a hurry.
How many miles and has the timing chain/gear set been replaced? If it has over 75k and the chain is original it would probably be best to do a compression test to evaluate the overall engine condition, pull the engine, replace the seal with a neoprene version and replace the chain gear/set. This can snowball into $$$ in a hurry.
#6
I have the original OEM main rope seal (1971 CS 350cid). Depending on size of leak this may work for you. I get maybe 6-7 drops per week (120K miles on the odometer).
NOTE: No assembly required, easy to install, saves $$, instructions optional.
NOTE: No assembly required, easy to install, saves $$, instructions optional.
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