Question for the experts:

A 1967 F85 has recently been put up for sale in town and I am thinking of grabbingit but I have some questions. It is equipped with a 330 manual steering andbrakes, and 2 speed Jetaway transmission. Would it be a fairly easy process toinstall a 455 into this car or is there a lot of "custom" work thatneeds to be done to drop a 455 in it? Any in sight you guys can offer would begreatly appreciated. Thanks

Drew

 

Some work yes but this is a common swap. The big block will bolt right in using the same mounts as the 330. Get new mounts if the old ones look shot(330 mounts). The complete front engine accessory drive parts should be used off the 330 or get a complete set for the 455 dont mix & match or you'll have alignment problems
You still may on the water pump pulley depending on the snout length. Measure twice. You should upgrade the remainder of the drive train. The 2 speed and its rear will be a weak link. Consider a well built 2004R or a TH400 with a GV OD if you want another gear from the 400.The 2 speed set up will bolt up but its not internally designed in stock form to handle 455 torque. I believe the 200R4 has the same external dimensions as the 2 speed? It may even have the same slip yoke, dont remember specifics on that but do a search here as its has been addressed several times. If so you could drop that assembly in (455/200R4) and drive it for a while like that until you blow the rear. The rear is probably ok for a while but if your foots always in it it will break. Consider upgrading the cooling system as well. The 2 core may or may not work.
Im sure other "experts" will chime in with more.

 

Thank you for the great information, it is greatly appreciated. I love thissite, You guys have so much goodknowledge.

Drew

 

As was stated above, very easy swap. Post some pic's if you consummate your deal.

 

If that doesn't work do like your disclaimer states "There is nothing that can't be solved with a suitable amount of explosives!"

 

Use the 5.12" long water pump that all V8s take that year.

 

The transmission mount will have to be moved farther back for the 2004R or the Turbo 400. A turbo 350 will be an exact fit. I'm currently building my son a 67 F85 two door post car. 425 with a Muncie 4-speed. It was originally a six and two speed Jetaway.

 

Thanks for the great info. I wish my dad hooked me up with an awesome car like that!

 

for the thm400, you may/may not need to drill 2 holes in the frame-they didn't exist on mine... no big deal.
your shift indicator won't display 1st and 2nd correctly, but everything else will be fine.


bill

 

There are holes already for the xmember on a 67.

 

they weren't there on mine.


bill

 

I wonder why unless it was an early 67.

 

If the frame on an F-85 was destined for the F-85 at the beginning, and, I'm not sure on this, but I don't know if TH-350's-400's were a F-85 option, but perhaps, if both of those are true, then maybe they just bypassed that station on the line at the frame plant. Usually things will have bosses since they're all stamped and cast the same, but sometimes drill holes are only as necessary, you know?

 

No th350 in '67, came out in '69. It should be noted the th350 however is a DIRECT swap for the th300 2 speed. Even the shifter works fine, the indicator just drops one spot below L when shifted to 1st. I would (and do) use the th350 behind the 455. Works great.

 

thm400 was an option on the cutlass, which is ernie's trim level.


bill

 

What do you think a fair price for this car would be? I know the front bumper needs to be replaced, there is some surface rust in the typical A body locations, front bench seat is all torn up. I would say it is in fair condition.

 

Got any pictures? I would think $1500-5000 depending on condition.

 

Here are the pictures I have of the car.

 

Nice rubber floor.

 

x2 on the floor. It looks to be in decent shape, what are they asking for it?

 

He is askin 5k but there is some wiggle room. I am going tomorrow to look at it. Are there any specific areas I should focus in on as far as rust/rot?

 

Around the rear window channel, especially the bottom corners. All lower sheet metal, rocker panels, and floors. Around the front windshield. Body mount bushing areas. Both sides of the trunk drop offs and trunk floor.

 

Thank you for the information Eric! Ill keep you posted if I pull the trigger on this.

 

That is a fellow CO members car here in NJ. As said rot on these cars is around and under front and rear windshields, lower front fenders, inner fender at battery tray, and radiator core support. More serious rot can be in trunk floor, interior floor, and inner and outer rockers. Dont aske me how I know! You also want to look at body mounts to see if they are all cracked, flattened or coming apart. That is a neat car!

 

They are an easy car to work on. The nice thing with that one is it's a blank slate and would make a great hotrod. With that said, whatever you pay for it you can add another $10-15k to make it a great daily driver type of car that would perform and show nicely at local car shows. Parts are readily available and not extremely expensive. Mine was in similar shape as that one when I bought it, so I'm not tossing numbers around.


I've been working on mine since April of 2009, it's been a daily driver and ongoing project.

 

That is like my son's car except for the black interior. We are going to replace rear quarters (not from rust but from damage), floors, trunk floor, and had to patch some rust in front and rear channels. His was a six, T300, no air. Was a semi driver. Ran and drove, just not very far. Paid $2500.

 

I greatly value all of your knowledge and information thatyou have provided. This really is a great site that we Olds enthusiasts canutilize for our passion.