Looking at a four door sedan tomorrow, barn find, stored in 1975 when original owner died. Has original title, paperwork, dash is intact, interior looks original, stock a m radio and steering wheel has no cracks. Rockers have rust, seller said floors and frame appear solid. Any thing I should check that would be a problem area on this year and any idea what would be a fair price with this limited info?

 

Not enough information from here. Most anything or everything could be inoperable rusted or broken after setting for 40 years. Just remember it was parked for a reason 40 years ago and no one picked it up to drive then. I think this is one of those times when you have to put eyes and hands on it and determine if it needs a little love or a bank account of its own....Tedd

 

Ted, thanks for response, will check it carefully. Was told car was left in barn when owner died.

 

I agree with Ted, it could have been parked because of major problems. On the flip side the previous owner may have had other sentimental reasons to park it. So you never know. Good luck!

 

Does the car run, or hasn't anyone tried to start it? A car that last ran 40 years ago and has been sitting ever since could have all kinds of issues. Much depends on what it will take to get it running again. If the engine is seized, you'll be needing another one. Whether or not the engine turns would be the first thing to check.

Original paperwork is cool but means nothing as far as the car's value right now. It's the car itself that matters. Rust in the rockers is possibly indicative of rust elsewhere. If one were going to pick a place to store a car for 40 years, a barn would not be a good choice in spite of the romance of "barn finds."

The Old Cars Price Guide lists the value of a '56 88 4-door sedan in non-running but restorable condition at about $2,500. But I think the value would only be this high if the engine is salvageable. If the car needs another engine, I would think considerably less than $2,500. Maybe half that.

Remember, too, that the 4-door sedan is typically the least sought-after and least-valuable of any body style. On the other hand, any '50s car is pretty cool, in my opinion, considering how old they're getting to be now.

What is the seller asking for it?

 

X2 on jaunty75's comments. Also, is it a stick or an automatic? 56 was the first year of the jetaway automatic transmission (it has a park position) and they had/have problems. Not the end of the world. My 56 runs great now, but it had to be rebuilt and it took time to find someone who knew that transmission.

 

Car is automatic, old battery is still in place, owner said he has not tried to start it. What kind of problems with Hydramatic, how much to rebuild trans? Engine problems I can handle, hoping its four barrel, not sure fi he has top part of batwing air cleaner. Heading over to check it out shortly, will post some pictures.

 

If an earley 56 it could be a slant pan hydromatic and would not show a park position on the dash, this would be my prefered transmission but may be a little harder to fine a mechanic to do repairs. Also a major item is chrome there is a bunch of it and it can be very expensive to rechrome especially if you live in a state that does not like chromers like California....Tedd

 

Like Tedd said. If it has a park position, it is a jetaway transmission which was introduced part way through 56. The jetaway had some problems, and before the days of recalls, they had a fix kit for reported problems. Mine missed the fix kit until 2013 when my transmission guy caught it. Not the end of the world. As I said, mine runs great now and the transmission should not be the gating factor in your purchase decision. just something to keep in mind.

 

If you have to rebuild the transmission you are looking at at least $2000. The problem is finding anybody that knows anything about them. They haven't built them for 50 years so there are not many guys left that worked on them. They are so heavy that shipping to a rebuilder is cost prohibitive. Mine is working pretty good but has some serious leaks. I have found a guy in Fort Worth that worked on them and at some point soon I will take it to him. He quoted me $2,000 if he has to completely rebuild it.

 

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56 88 6.jpg[/ATTACH] Here's some pictures, paid 1200, soaking engine will try to turn tomorrow, has rust in trunk by rear leak spring mount, typical rust in other area's. Shows 72,749 miles, has deluxe AM radio, oil filter, deluxe steering wheel and special tu tone paint. Needs front and rear bumpers, battery and t-stat housing, to start...

 

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Got the engine running off gas can, while running pumped all the old fuel into another container. Shifted trans into drive and reverse with blocked wheels and it engaged (needs brakes). Warmed it up and changed oil. Can a spin on oil filter be adapted to the 324 engine. Not up to speed on these earlier engine, also anyone have a thermostat housing for this engine? Thanks Chris

 

Yes any spin on housing off of a 394 Late 371 will bolt on without any problems. Try Ebay for the adapter they come up often on there . And as for the thermostat housing Fusick has them, part number 571145 for a 2bbl carb 324 or 567874 for the 4 bbl version. Or you can list your wants on the parts wanted forum on here someone may be able to help you out....Tedd

 

Ross Racing has the spin on adapter.

 

Just curious, is it a Jetaway?

 

Looks like having the coolant drained helped save the engine from rust seizure.
Congrats!
Fusick also sells the stock oil filter elements.

 

Yes it is a jetaway, installed thermostat housing and filled with coolant. Still on gas can but was able to warm it up and adjust carb, runs smooth, little exhaust leaks but not bad with some sheetmetal bandages. Generator belt on and she's charging, lights work but still have to check brakes. Engine has another canister oil filter underneath besides one on passenger fender well? Have to assume thats where the spin on filter mounts. Thanks for the help and fusick t-stat housing was delivered in five days.

 

The oil filter housing that will be replaced is the one on the lower passenger side bolted to the block. Great news that you have a running engine, now the brakes.This era Olds has a treadle vac type system not the most common type of vacuum assets system and it is more difficult and expensive to repair or replace but if properly set up they will stop your car, be sure they are reliable before you venture out on the highway....Tedd

 

I have a spin on filter on mine but I think I have a couple cartridges for the canister if you are interested. I had Karps Power Brake in Upland, CA rebuilt mine and I am very happy with it. It ain't cheap. By the time you pay freight both ways it is going to be close to $500. However, there is nothing on your car more important.

 

Do all have treadle vac even without power brakes?

 

No. Treadle vac is the name of the power brake unit. If it has power brakes your brake pedal should have power brakes on it,

 

And you will have a large vacuum line coming off the back of the carburetor going to the vacuum booster tank which I believe is mounted under the hood on the passenger's side. Its been a while since I was under the hood of a 56 but thats what I remember it hiding. If there is no power brakes its much cheaper to rebuild these units and you can do it your self quite easily.

Your next purchase should be a factory service manual you will use it daily as you work on your car. I believe Fusicks or USA Parts Supply carries repops of this item and they are of good quality or sometimes they come up on Ebay either in the repop or original version. Glad to see you got her going with out any major surprises.....Tedd

 

I just rebuilt my own treadle-vac on a '55 that I'm fixing up as a driver. Mine had been sitting about 15 years, and the treadle-vac was hydra-locked from leaked fluid.
If it's in good condition, it's not too hard of a job. Tools & guts.
Fusick sells the rebuild kit. I'd replace the flex hose, too. I didn't, and the hose leaked after I got it all together the first time.