Rally Pack Temp Gauge Wiring
May 7th, 2015 | 09:35 AM
#1
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
Rally Pack Temp Gauge Wiring
I recently had Vintage A/C Installed in my non a/c 68 Cutlass. The vents had to be mounted on the bottom of the dash. B/C of that I lost my aftermarket temp/oil/volt gauges.
I have the Rally Pack Fuel/Temp/Oil gauge, but the Temp/oil weren't hooked up.(This car originally had the dummy gauge and was wired for that). I got the correct sending units. Oil pressure works, but the temp gauge won't move...and that's an important gauge!
I've looked around the site, specifically at the links below, and from what I'm gathering, it looks like I need to pull the Lt Green wire.
Am I right? Or do wires have to be moved around? Everything else on the gauge works...Fuel, Brake, Volt, Oil, and it even illuminates, so a re-wiring doesn't seem like the right solution to me. I don't know though, that's why I'm asking...Thanks for your help!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ck-wiring.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...elta-88-a.html
I have the Rally Pack Fuel/Temp/Oil gauge, but the Temp/oil weren't hooked up.(This car originally had the dummy gauge and was wired for that). I got the correct sending units. Oil pressure works, but the temp gauge won't move...and that's an important gauge!
I've looked around the site, specifically at the links below, and from what I'm gathering, it looks like I need to pull the Lt Green wire.
Am I right? Or do wires have to be moved around? Everything else on the gauge works...Fuel, Brake, Volt, Oil, and it even illuminates, so a re-wiring doesn't seem like the right solution to me. I don't know though, that's why I'm asking...Thanks for your help!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ck-wiring.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...elta-88-a.html
May 7th, 2015 | 10:45 AM
#2
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 48,344
From: Northern VA
By the way, the green wire IS the lead from the sender. Common sense should tell you that if you simply pull it, there is no longer any signal coming from the sender.
May 7th, 2015 | 11:25 AM
#3
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
Thanks Joe! I looked at both posts many times after my initial post, and I think I confused myself. One post converts a factory rally pack car to aftermarket rally gauges (there's 2 green wires), the other post describes wiring for the 2 different gauges.
There needs to be some sort of wire rearrangement if the original setup was a dummy gauge right?
I didn't install my rally gauge, and I haven't looked at how it's wired yet. During this a/c addition, we just added the sending units and tapped into the original wires at the front of the engine...oil works, temp doesn't. The temp gauge does flicker once the car turns on.
Right now I'm just getting ideas on how to troubleshoot this...bc I'm at work.
So if everything else on the gauge is working what's the issue?
Green/temp wire in wrong place?
Bad wire/sender?
Bad gauge?
When I get home I'll take a pic and I'll go from there.
Thanks!
There needs to be some sort of wire rearrangement if the original setup was a dummy gauge right?
I didn't install my rally gauge, and I haven't looked at how it's wired yet. During this a/c addition, we just added the sending units and tapped into the original wires at the front of the engine...oil works, temp doesn't. The temp gauge does flicker once the car turns on.
Right now I'm just getting ideas on how to troubleshoot this...bc I'm at work.
So if everything else on the gauge is working what's the issue?
Green/temp wire in wrong place?
Bad wire/sender?
Bad gauge?
When I get home I'll take a pic and I'll go from there.
Thanks!
May 7th, 2015 | 03:50 PM
#4
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 48,344
From: Northern VA
The green wire is the wire to the temp sender. If it's not in the no 1 position on the connector as shown above, the gauge won't work. Per the drawing, starting with the idiot light wiring, remove the tan/white wire from the no 1 position and put it in the bland no 4 position. Remove the green wire from the no 7 position and put it in the no 1 position. Leave no 7 blank. Done.
May 7th, 2015 | 05:25 PM
#5
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
Well heck! Everything is wired correctly...I took a pic but it's on my phone and I'm having trouble uploading it via the mobile site, but every wire is in the correct position for the rally gauge.
The temp gauge spikes on the initial ignition, and that's it. Something is juicing it.
Any ideas where the Hangup might be?
The temp gauge spikes on the initial ignition, and that's it. Something is juicing it.
Any ideas where the Hangup might be?
May 8th, 2015 | 08:44 AM
#6
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
Attached is the pic of the wiring to the back of my gauge. Everything is correct. Like I said, this wasn't originally a Rally Gauge car...I don't know.
Now I need to just figure out why it's not working. I really don't think it's the gauge. There's something going on between point A & B.
I installed the AC Delco G1852...Looking around it seems people are having more success w the Borg Warner sensor...regardless it should be registering something right?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Rhett
Now I need to just figure out why it's not working. I really don't think it's the gauge. There's something going on between point A & B.
I installed the AC Delco G1852...Looking around it seems people are having more success w the Borg Warner sensor...regardless it should be registering something right?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Rhett
Last edited by rhett838; May 8th, 2015 at 09:03 AM. Reason: update
May 8th, 2015 | 06:43 PM
#7
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,525
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Rhett, I think this is the answer to your question. Have a read, I took it from Robb Young's thread about when he converted his car. He identifies the problem you have and the solution to the pegging. Note, the pegging of the gage is just a minor annoyance and will not hurt the gage.
There would be a small hole (or slot) in the gauge-side of the connector.
Push wire upwards and hold, insert suitable tool (big paper clip or jeweler's screwdriver) into the small hole from the connector top side and push it in firmly (usually you can feel it 'pop' a little), and pull wire out from the bottom. When the wire comes out, use a small sccrewdriver to re bend the tang that was pushed in during removal. This will ensure wire will lock in again when reinserted.
Here is a demo of wire removal: (disregard my post-it-note cheatsheet)...
Below is how the connector should look (for rally gauges) when done. (Tape or heat shrink the black seat belt light wire, as it is not needed. Rally Pac equipped cars have the seat belt light mounted on the top of the dash pad.)
If changing to gauges, replacing the sending units will be required. There will be one small green wire to disconnect from the ignition switch to disable the temp light bulb test feature to prevent pegging of the temp gauge when cranking the engine.
Right tool for the right job is right! I have one odd-sized skinny long nail i set aside just for terminal releasing!
Here are some more wiring diags:
Push wire upwards and hold, insert suitable tool (big paper clip or jeweler's screwdriver) into the small hole from the connector top side and push it in firmly (usually you can feel it 'pop' a little), and pull wire out from the bottom. When the wire comes out, use a small sccrewdriver to re bend the tang that was pushed in during removal. This will ensure wire will lock in again when reinserted.
Here is a demo of wire removal: (disregard my post-it-note cheatsheet)...
Below is how the connector should look (for rally gauges) when done. (Tape or heat shrink the black seat belt light wire, as it is not needed. Rally Pac equipped cars have the seat belt light mounted on the top of the dash pad.)
If changing to gauges, replacing the sending units will be required. There will be one small green wire to disconnect from the ignition switch to disable the temp light bulb test feature to prevent pegging of the temp gauge when cranking the engine.
Right tool for the right job is right! I have one odd-sized skinny long nail i set aside just for terminal releasing!
Here are some more wiring diags:
May 9th, 2015 | 06:54 PM
#8
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
After verifying that, turn ignition on and short the wire at the sender to the block (ground). It should peg just like turning the key to start.
If it works then, your sender is either broke or the wrong one (for a temp light). I have seen wrong parts in the boxes or lights vs gauges ones get swapped.
May 9th, 2015 | 07:52 PM
#9
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
Thanks Rob! That wire is brown.
When I turn the key the gauge quickly goes up and down, but only when I'm turning the key. When the key is in the on position or when the car is running there's no movement at all. This is happening whether I ground or not.
I actually got a new sender yesterday, but still no reading.
Is there a fuse or a relay or something in between that's bad? I don't know...maybe my connector on the sender is wrong or bad? This is perplexing
Thanks!
When I turn the key the gauge quickly goes up and down, but only when I'm turning the key. When the key is in the on position or when the car is running there's no movement at all. This is happening whether I ground or not.
I actually got a new sender yesterday, but still no reading.
Is there a fuse or a relay or something in between that's bad? I don't know...maybe my connector on the sender is wrong or bad? This is perplexing
Thanks!
Last edited by rhett838; May 9th, 2015 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Addition
May 9th, 2015 | 08:02 PM
#10
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
What does the connection on the sender look like? My wire has a quick connect...the kind that slide onto the metal slivers. The sender does have a weird connection post...what's the right connector for it?
May 9th, 2015 | 08:34 PM
#11
Thread Starter
68 Cutlass S Convertible
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 258
From: Euless, TX
I tried the grounding experiment again. This time I touched the wore to the metal. It didn't peg but it moved as I moved it across the metal, so I think it's the connector.
Now I just need to figure out what the right connector looks like
Now I just need to figure out what the right connector looks like
April 1st, 2017 | 02:29 PM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10
[QUOTE=oldcutlass;1004060]The panel lights wire color is gray. 2 things to check, the fuse and the headlight **** rheostat may be turned all the way to the right.[/QUOT
Fuse is good and headlight **** works I have lights in the speedo housing but nothing at the rally pack gauges work gen and brake light work
Fuse is good and headlight **** works I have lights in the speedo housing but nothing at the rally pack gauges work gen and brake light work
April 26th, 2020 | 06:06 PM
#16
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 1
Hi there, new here. I am installing a ralleye pack in my 1976 cutlass supreme, i installed the new sending units, i did wrap teflon tape around the oil pressure sending unit, on both connections, as was on the original idiot lights sending unit. After switching all the wires to match the schematic diagrams, when i start the car, the oil pressure gauge pins all the way to the right, and the temp gauge sits at 210 degrees, when the engine is cold. Also, when i unhook the oil pressure gauge, the temp gauge drops right off, to the left, but doesn t move when the engine warms up. I tried a different gauge and it reacts exactly the same. Is it the gauge that is faulty, and the second gauge is also faulty, or is there something i am missing. Please help!!
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