Tom Eggers

Working from the underside of the 1966 Cutlass dash I was removing the screws from the circuit board and struggling to get my hands and tools into position to get the darn things out. I did not notice the two sizes of screws and understand the 3 longer ones need to be put back into their original position. Can someone enlighten me as to their position? I'm going to repair the CB and re-install it. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

RandyS

If I recall correctly, the 3 longer screws are for the fuel gauge. They go in a triangle configuration around the gauge.

Tom Eggers

Hey thanks. I was pretty sure of the one located in the center middle and the other two would then be on either side of the fuel tank indicator at the top of the board. I read the thread that talked about being sure to note the location of these about an hour AFTER I removed them.... lol go figure. When I was removing them it was just so many screws falling past my head so I didn't notice the difference. These three have a washer attached and so I'm pretty sure your indication is the correct one because I can see the little wider mark left on the board. Sure appreciate the help because it confirmed my suspicions and makes me feel a bit more comfortable when we get to re-assembly. Removing and trying to repair the board has been a total pain, but I guess the good news is that I got the clock fully functional again. Squirted it with some Carb cleaner, shot it with air, and then squirted some WD-40 on her and she came back to life. I left it hooked up to the battery charger all day and it kept perfect time for 23 hours so I'm going to put her back into the dash. Thanks again and have a great day!

Tom Eggers

Problem... Ok, I repaired the circuit board and now everything works including the clock with one exception. The darn gas gauge is still inoperable Can I bypass the plug connected to the circuit board and wire directly from the gas tank sender to the three posts on the circuit board that operate the gauge ? I need to have a working gauge. Help here would be appreciated. Thanks

RandyS

Yes, you don't have to use the board, it just simplifies hookup. Have you checked the gauge to see if it is operating? Apply 12v (or less, a 9v battery will move it) to see if the gauge is working. If the gauge is working, try the same thing at the pigtail that attaches to the gas tank sending unit.

Tom Eggers

Woa this just got messy! THE SITUATION: The gas gauge is sitting on full continuously. I unhooked the negative post off the battery and unclipped the flat pigtail that ends under the back seat. With my probe I applied a ground to the third clip from the left on the pigtail and the gas gauge went back to empty. I left the flat pigtail unclipped and re-hooked the battery to the negative post. Nothing happened until I turned the key to the on position and the gas gauge went past full. When I turned the key off the gas gauge remained at the "full" position.
So no matter if I connect or don't connect the pigtail under the back seat the gas gauge goes to past full if I turn the ignition key to on.
I can only get the gas gauge back to "empty" by disconnecting the battery and using my probe to apply ground to the third post in on the flat pigtail under the back seat. Also note I tried adding + or - directly to the pins on the CB: No matter if the gas gauge is showing "past full" or showing "empty", if I energize with a + or if I apply a ground - to the three pin connection points on the Circuit Board there is no movement of the fuel gauge at all. At this point I'm lost. So do I have a bad gauge or a bad sending unit or some messed up wiring. I guess the next step would be to go right to the wires as they leave the gas tank? This is so aggravating. LOL I enjoy the chase but I'd enjoy a favorable solution a lot more. Thanks, Tom

Tom Eggers

Ok Follow up with some additional info after some testing on the three screws on the back of the Curcuit Board. Laying on the floor board and looking up at the back of the CB. If I clip a negative onto the bottom center screw, then I can move the needle on the gas gauge towards "full" by applying a + charge to the left top screw or I can move it towards empty by applying a + charge to the right top screw. Hope that's some help. I guess that might indicate the gauge is working but I'm not sure where to go from here. Thanks, Tom