Repro Rally Packs

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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 04:27 PM
  #1  
501Paratrooper's Avatar
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Repro Rally Packs

Anybody that has the repro RP's have any problems yet? I'm on the fence with having a set restored or just install the repro.

Thanks
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
From what I've read from others who have bought the repro's the lighting has issues and is not bright enough. Easy enough fix by removing the case and painting the inside a light sky blue. Here's a link from Rob Young who described the problem and created the 'fix'. Brightening the repro Rally Pac (and other RP stuff!)

Other than that, the only thing that really makes the repro U21 tach side stand out as non OEM is the quartz (continuous - although accurate) second hand. OEM tach clocks use a 'sweep' second hand. If the clock mechanism is maintained (cleaned and light machine oil for lube) it should continue to run fine, although it won't keep perfect time.

For the cost of the repro's, I'd restore OEM's and be done with it. If you're looking for a good rebuilder? Bob's Speedometer
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 04:58 PM
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501Paratrooper's Avatar
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Thanks Allan, Redline is doing my Spedo now and I thought of getting a original RP from somebody. They are usually priced around 250 for a set that might not work and at least another 200 or more to restore them so right around what a repro set costs.

Saw Rob's post, I might just get the LED bulbs for the qauges though.
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #4  
Allan R's Avatar
Just an Olds Guy
 
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Your speedo is already in the shop? I have a 1970 speedo with a speedminder option. I was thinking of restoring it and plopping it into my 72 for kicks. Speedo's are so easy to change out.

Found a neat video on how to rebuild them and set the number wheels back to 00000.0 Might give it a shot on one of the junk speedos I've collected.

Good luck with whichever way you decide on the RP stuff!
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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I only had the issues with the illumination, none afterwards.
Don't bother with leds unless you do the painting first. I am pretty sure someone here tried that and failed.
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #6  
dfire25's Avatar
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I've got a set from the parts place. Yes I had to fix the illumination problems (easy thanks to Rob) but I'm also having a problem getting the temp gauge to work. If I ground the wire the gauge moves, and I do get a resistance reading when the motor heats up. But the gauge just stays at cold. Other then that the oil pressure, fuel gauge, clock, and tach work fine.
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 03:02 PM
  #7  
501Paratrooper's Avatar
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Thanks gents!
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dfire25
If I ground the wire the gauge moves, and I do get a resistance reading when the motor heats up. But the gauge just stays at cold. Other then that the oil pressure, fuel gauge, clock, and tach work fine.
What resistances are you getting from the sender? Sounds like they might be incorrect from a bad sender or incorrect sender.
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #9  
pcard's Avatar
70 Cutlass SX
 
Joined: Apr 2011
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I have had no problems with reproduction RP. I had mine calibrated before I put it in.
I put in LED lights and they are nice and bright(superbrightleds.com). I got the ones that are slightly blue.
If you can get a used original one for $200 then go for it. When I was looking they were all above 500. Now even the repro ones are above 500.
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #10  
dfire25's Avatar
"Trying to fix her right"
 
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
What resistances are you getting from the sender? Sounds like they might be incorrect from a bad sender or incorrect sender.


I'm using the one that came with the kit, actually they sent me another one just incase. I don't know the actual readings, but the resistance does change when it warms up. What number should I be looking for? I thought it might be a ground problem because I had no ground straps, but I installed straps from the body to the frame and the engine to the body and still nothing. Maybe the straps still are not grounded properly. I'll recheck them to make sure they are making good contact. Other then that I am at a loss. And as you would expect, The Parts Place is no help.
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 06:55 PM
  #11  
pcard's Avatar
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I seem to recall someone posting a chart of resistances for the gauges, cannot remember if they were original or repro. I cannot find the thread. Was it Rob?

Last edited by pcard; Mar 26, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
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