Hello all - can someone please confirm i have the attached 2 wires backwards? It's a new wiring harness and the old wires were not color coded. From the wiring diagram posted in here it seems like they are backwards but I don't want to switch them and fry something. And yes, nothing happens when I try to start it. Thanks

 

Was there supposed to be an image attached to your post/thread? I don't see an image.

 

just uploaded again, thanks

 

In a stock configuration w/ a stock solenoid and stock wire colors:

The yellow goes to the R terminal of the solenoid and the Purple goes to the S terminal. Assuming the other ends of your wiring harness match.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-up-180442/

 

From the factory, your car had three wires on the starter, a battery cable to the large post in the solenoid, a purple wire to the "S" (for START) terminal, and a yellow wire to the "R" (for RESISTOR BYPASS) terminal. The purple wire runs from the ignition switch through the neutral safety switch to the starter and provides 12V to the solenoid when the key is in the START position. The yellow wire runs from the solenoid to the "+" terminal on the ignition coil and bypasses the resistor wire to provide a full 12V to the points for starting the car.

 

The starter is wired correctly and still no crank. Ther battery tests good and the headlights come on if that matters. This new wire hardness came from OPGI and I had ordered it for an HEI dizzy along with internal regulator alternator. Where do I trouble shoot first? I think I read that I need to see if power is going to the starter first? If thats the case do I need to drop the started and still leave the wires connected and then test? Thanks

 

Validate the large battery cable to the center lug on the solenoid has 12VDC using either a meter or a simple circuit test light (probe).

 

And then check the S terminal has 12 Volts when the key it in the Start position.

There are multiple things that could cause your issue. These come to mind right off:
- neutral safety switch is out of adjustment
- steering column lock collar out of adjustment.
- bad solenoid or starter.

 

Check your neutral safety switch. If the yellow and purple wires were swapped at the starter, it would engage when you turned the key to the on position.

 

1) None of the wires require disconnecting to validate you have 12VDC on the thick battery cable attached to the center lug.
2) Simply probe that battery cable w/ a meter or a simple circuit test light.
3) You are correct. The 1st item to troubleshoot is to validate that battery cable has 12VDC.

 

Simple circuit test lamp available from nearly all big box stores (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) & nearly every automotive parts store (Harbor Freight, NAPA, etc.). Red alligator clip connects to any known good ground (i.e. frame, chassis, etc.) source then probe the battery cable w/ the tip. If the lamp illuminates you have power. I like a circuit test lamp w/ a VERY sharp pointed end. This allows you to stab into (through) the wire insulation anywhere along the path of the wire to validate power.

 

You should not need to stab through the insulation at most connections.

 

HUH?
The NSS is simply an on-off switch. There is no polarity. Either purple wire can be attached to either terminal on the switch. The switch simply closes in PARK or NEUTRAL to connect the two purple wires together. If the switch is not adjusted properly, that is a different problem.

To the OP: disconnect the purple wires from the NSS and jumper them together in the connector with a heavy gauge wire. If the car cranks now, the NSS or it's adjustment is the problem. By the way, would this happen to be a column shift car that was converted to floor shift?

 

Yes Joe, it has been converted to a floor switch before i purchased it. Is that causing the issue?

 

Just checked, I am getting 12v to the starter

 

On which wire?

 

Maybe. The factory floor shift cars used the NSS on the column and a backdrive linkage from the column to the trans to both operate the NSS/backup lights and to lock the shifter. Most conversions fail to install this backdrive linkage, which means that there is nothing to prevent the NSS from vibrating out of position. Grab the ring on the column where the shift lever used to be and ensure that it is turned all the way counterclockwise.

 

Joe - no luck on moving the column

Fun71 - I checked the middle black wire. Should I be checking the yellow or purple for 12v?

 

Middle black should have 12 Volts always. Purple wire on S terminal should have 12 Volts when the key is in the Start position.

 

No 12v to the purple wire.will check the NSS.

 

I'm having gremlins of my own w/ my F250 diesel, but you're getting excellent help/assistance. (1) You know you have power to the center lug of the solenoid - that's a sold starting/beginning point. (2) Do read Joe's suggestion (above) in Post #13:
(3) As Kenneth states in Post #19:

 

Sorry I meant if the yellow and purple wires at the starter were reversed. I edited my comment.

 

Let's cut to the chase here. The purple wire at the NSS only gets power when the key is in the START position. This is troubleshooting 101. Stop randomly doing things and perform a systematic diagnosis. Disconnect the two purple wires from the NSS. ONE of them will have 12V with the key in START position. If not. figure out why. If it does, jumper those two terminals in the connector (as I suggested in post #13) and see if the starter turns.

 

As per Joe's advice:
This troubleshooting/diagnosis will isolate/remove the NSS to enable further evaluation/troubleshooting. By isolating (removing) the NSS (placing a jumper between the two terminals (purple wires) you're establishing a direct feed to the solenoid (starter).
Note what occurs when you turn the IGN SW to the START position: The IGN circuit is energized via the SOL & BAT connections with the IGN SW in the START position (BTW, SOL = SOLENOID). Albeit, follow the white arrows from the IGN SW through the NSS down to the SOL (solenoid). Simply disconnect the two purple wires from the NSS, jumper them together & see if the starter turns.

 

Appreciate all the replies. Will try and get to it tonight to try jump the NSS.

 

Just to be clear, before you "jump" anything, TEST for power on the purple wire when you turn the key to START. If you get power, THEN jump the terminals in the connector and see if the starter cranks.

 

Just checked and there is no power on either of the purple wires off the NSS

 

So trace that wire back to the ignition switch and figure out if the switch is bad or if it's that wire.

 

As per Joe's statement (above) - this wire (RED ARROW) should have power when the IGN SW is in the START position.

 

Do you have power along the wire from the battery to the IGN SW (yellow arrows)? This wire should be attached to the FUSIBLE LINK emanating from the horn relay DISTRIBUTION BLOCK.

 

Is your harness a stock replacement? Did you rewire the whole car with new harnesses?

 

Will check the fusible link when I get home later. I just rewired the engine compartment. The new harness was purchased for a HEI dizzy(previously points) and for an internal regulated alternator(CS130). If i have access to a remote starter switch, would that narrow down my issue? .

 

If you are not getting power on either purple wire when the key is turned to START, the problem is from the NSS and back. We've spent more time talking about this than it takes to trace that wire back with a test light. Again, this is troubleshooting 101.

 

Look, I'm sorry if this comes across like an ***, but I've told you three times exactly what to do and your responses seem to be "oh look, squirrel". A remote starter switch isn't going to tell you where the power is interrupted in that purple START circuit. All it will tell you is that when you bypass the entire START circuit wiring with the remote starter, the starter will probably turn. Troubleshooting requires a methodical tracing of the circuit. Jumping around with ADD probably isn't going to find the problem (at least not very quickly) and may just cause new ones inadvertently. Study the wiring diagram and trace the wires that control power to the starter. There is no easy or remote way to do this, it's brute force.

Just to confirm, when you tested for power on the purple wires at the NSS, you did turn the key to the START position, right?

 

If the headlights are coming on and the horn works, then the fusible link is good.

 

Eric - Correct, fully agree & I haven't lost track OP stated (earlier) headlamps are operable. The IGN SW must be powered & the fusible link wire from the JUNCTION/DISTRIBUTION BLOCK feeds a 3-branch circuit (IGN SW, MAIN LAMP SW, FUSE PANEL). There is a splice (YELLOW CIRCLE) in the fusible link wire which feeds each of those circuits. Albeit, OP needs to demonstrate the branch (YELLOW ARROWS) which supplies power to the IGN SW is receiving power.

 

Appreciate everyone's patience w me.so now I do not have lights but he fusible link looks intact.

 

Fusible links that are blown can still appear intact.

 

"Looks intact" is meaningless. TEST it to see if there is power at both ends. That takes less time than it took you to make that post.

 

This is an example of where a circuit test lamp w/ a VERY sharp pointed end is useful. You can test the fusible link (wire) at the JUNCTION BLOCK, then stab into (through) the insulation of the wire which feeds off the fusible link wire; and, anywhere along those three branches to establish which wire (circuit) has power.

Appears something else might be askew here:

That's disconcerting. You either have power or you don't have power. If the headlamps "were" working, but now they are not working...you need to establish the basics of rudimentary wiring & establish exactly where you do and you do not have power (as mentioned Troubleshooting 101). All power is supplied via the battery circuitry. This is likely a huge learning experience for you, but KISS it (Keep It Simple Stupid/Straightworward). Trace each wire from the battery using the wiring diagram. Consider printing the wiring diagram so you have something to follow while working on the circuitry. If need be use painter's tape to label each wire & perhaps a notebook to lay out your work. Don't over complicate the situation. Remain steadfast. KISS

I can see from your image(s) you have removed the voltage regulator from the firewall (since you installed a CS130 ALT). That's fine as long as it's wired correctly. With that said, I'll take the opportunity to mention something to you. You should realize a complete circuit requires a pathway between the negative (-) ground side & the positive (+) side. A closed circuit means both the ground (-) & power (+) wires are connected properly to establish this circuit. An open circuit means there is a break somewhere in either (1) the ground (-) wiring or (2) the power (+) wiring. With these curious/peculiar statements of you have headlamps, but then you don't have headlamps it begs the question of whether your negative (-) ground wires are hooked up correctly and secure. Begin at ground zero - this might appear a daunting task.

KISS