I have a problem with starting. When using the key ignition switch it cranks but does not want to start. Using a remote starter switch unhooking the small wire that comes from the starter and connecting that to the remote switch and the junction box where the battery cables connect it fires right up. I cleaned the cables at the junction box but that did not help. Does this sound like the ignition switch is bad? Any help on what to check would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick

 

You need to see if you have voltage at the coil+ terminal when you crank it with the key. Sounds like its missing and may be a wiring issue.

 

The '56 Oldsmobile had two wires that ran from the ignition switch to the coil positive terminal .
When in the start position , a black wire carried battery voltage directly to the coil .
When the key was released to the "run" position a yellow wire carried battery voltage through a resistor to the positive coil terminal .

Yes, your problem is likely in the switch . Either that or a bad connection in the black wire that runs from the switch to the coil .

 

Thanks Eric and Charlie ! When I put it back together I had one wire on the positive side of coil. I will find the yellow wire, that is probably the problem then. I will let you know.
Rick

 

Find the resistor , You should have battery voltage at one terminal with the switch in the "start" position .
Also check the backside of the switch . The black wire (Ign 2 ) should be hot with the key turned . If not , replace the switch .
The diagram shows only a black wire going to the coil positive terminal . It comes from the resistor .

 

Charlie and Eric -
Eric, in a search of a prior post you referred to a "load Side" and a "power side" on the ignition coil resister How can I tell which is which? Or does it just depend on which side the black wire is hooked?
Charlie - Black #2 should go to resister then to positive side of coil? Yellow (Ign1) wire to other side of resister. Distributor wire to negative side of coil.
Thanks to both of you!
Rick

 

The power side of the resistor is the side the ignition switch wire is connected to, the load side is connected to the coil+ terminal. The yellow wire has power with the key in the run position, the black is the resistor bypass wire and only has power when the key is in the start position. A resistor has no polarity requirements.

 

 

Thanks Eric and Charlie!
Rick

 

I checked ( Ign 2) on the switch with key turned on, no voltage detected. The manual said to confirm a bad switch when no voltage at coil to run a lead from battery side of coil to battery if it starts it is a bad switch. It fired right up. I ordered a new ignition switch from Fusick. What has to be done to use your existing lock cylinder on the new switch? Thanks Charlie ! Eric I have the resister correct now. Thanks!
Rick

 

Straighten out a paper clip . Put the key in the lock cylinder , and turn it counter-clockwise .
Put the end of the paper clip into the small hole next to the keyhole . Continue turning the cylinder until it stops . The cylinder can now be pulled out of the switch .

 

Thanks Charlie!
Rick

 

The new switch arrived today. Got it in place and the car fired then quit. I ran a jumper for the yellow wire and everything is working as it should now.
Thanks so much for all the help!
Rick

 

That was easy, go for a nice ride now.

 

Eric - We took that ride today! Weather was beautiful. The car ran great with the rebuilt carburetor. I hope to get confidence back in the car after a series of issues.
Thanks
Rick

 

Try comparing the simplicity of trouble shooting your car to a late model, Then you'll get that warm fuzzy feeling of driving your older car vs the newer. Most older cars can be repaired on the side of the road easily, late models get a ride.