sheltonoil

I've searched threads but can't find a direct answer. Wiring diagram shows 3 wires to DS door switch, 2 to PS switch. I have 2 (white and black) and 1 (white), respectively. Don't have the white w/black tracer shown on the diagram. Is that because there's no dome light in the convertible? DS switch didn't work (lights or key buzzer) when I bought it, PS switch did. But couple days ago PS switch stopped activating courtesy lights as well. Presumably at the same time, the headlight switch stopped activating the courtesy lights when turning all the way counter clockwise. Seems very unlikely the jamb switches could both be bad, but how do I test them? I haven't done anything b/w the time the PS switch worked and when it didn't except test the horn/relay to make sure it worked since neither horn nor buzzer worked (it tested fine). None of the lights/accessories on the orange wire work, btw, but I don't THINK those are related and I'll save that for another thread. Lights on the gray wire are fine, but I also don't think that ties in to this. All fuses are fine, but admittedly I haven't tested the fuse box contacts themselves to verify current.
Any suggestions?

sheltonoil

No lights/accessories on my orange wire work. I see from the wiring diagram that the trunk light is on that same circuit, but PO did away with that at some point. Being electricity challenged despite my time with british cars, I'm not sure if the lack of the trunk light (assuming he just cut the wire somewhere) could cause the entire line to fail. If so, do I just need to find it and ground it? I need to check the contacts on the fuse box for current to eliminate that as a possible cause, but I can tell you that the fuse itself for the circuit is new. And the gray wire lights work fine. Thanks.

oldcutlass

Does your clock, glove box light, and cig lighter work?

oldcutlass

I merged these 2 threads as they are related. There is a fuse labeled clk, ctsy, cig. Make sure that fuse is good.

sheltonoil

I'm going to assume you combined my two separate posts in your reply. Not sure how you did that!
No, none of the lights or accessories on my orange wire work, including clock, glove box, cigar lighter.

sheltonoil

Our replies crossed.
25A Fuse is good (new), but I haven't tested the fuse panel contacts themselves to make sure they are ok.

oldcutlass

Do your tail and brake lights work? Do not ground the orange wire in the trunk if you find it.

sheltonoil

Yes. side markers, turn signals, reverse, tail and brake lights all work.

oldcutlass

Check both sides of the clk, crtsy, cig fuse for voltage.

sheltonoil

Thanks, will do it tonight and cross fingers it answers the question

oldcutlass

Let us know, since you have brake lights and tail lights, that circuit is getting power. The clk, crtsy, and cig fuse gets its power off the same bus there fore the fusable link in the circuit is good.

sheltonoil

Btw - is it proper for my car to NOT have, on either jamb switch, the white wire with black tracer that is shown on the wiring diagram? I'm hoping that's explained by it being a convertible...

oldcutlass

edit: There should be a wire running from the headlight switch to the door jamb switches. I believe there will be a wire capped somewhere in the harness for the nonexistent dome light.

oldcutlass

Your problem is the missing power to the orange wire.

cjsdad

The orange wire supplies 12 volt positive to the accessories you are describing. Dome light, cig lighter, trunk light, and such. However many of the individual devices have their own 12 volt negative or ground. The white wire on the door switches for example grounds the dome light circuit. Those switches get old and the contacts can break off leaving the wires/contacts dangling around inside the doorjamb. The factory switches are self adjusting the first time they are used. The rest of their life they are perfectly adjusted unless they are molested. But back to the switches. The white wire from the door switches is also connected in parallel with the light switch in your dash so when the **** is turned all the way counter-clockwise the dome light turns on. Convertibles don't have a dome light, but they do have courtesy lights that light up the floor. If none of the lights work but you have power to the circuit, you may have bad bulbs. If you have replaced your light switch make sure the ground is still connected. Broken door switches and a loose light switch ground can cause malfunctioning courtesy lights. Your lighter should be on the same fuse as the courtesy lights and such. The lighter socket will have its own ground wire that attaches somewhere under the dash. Make sure your lighter hasn't unscrewed itself. I have seen many that have and that will blow the fuse.

sheltonoil

Ok, here's what I found. Tested the contacts for the fuse, and only got 10.7 on either side - I assume that should be full 12+ voltage? Had unscrewed the map light to see if it even had a bulb, and thought I'd run a jumper direct from battery to the contacts on the light to see if the bulb was good, and when I did everything on the orange wire lit up when I had either door open - both door switches obviously worked. So did the cigar lighter. So you're definitely right that it just lacks power, so I assume that's at the fuse panel? How would that current get throttled down like that? Thanks for helping me sort this out.

oldcutlass

Does it all work with out the jumper?

sheltonoil

No, nothing works without the jumper. Shouldn't the reading at the fuse be 12+?

oldcutlass

Yes the fuse should read battery voltage (12v). Remove the jumper and the fuse and check the contacts on both sides.

sheltonoil

I'm assuming you mean to check for corrosion or defects in the fuse panel contacts, because as I said before, I already checked the voltage there and it was only 10.7. I should point out that PO put in an aftermarket stereo and removed it prior to selling it to me, and there is obviously some non-standard wiring back there. it DOES look like the power for the stereo is tied into the orange line, but given that everything came on with the jumper I don't see how that could be a factor - especially as far as the reduced voltage at the fuse contacts is concerned. Thanks for continuing to carry the load on this one!

oldcutlass

You should be able to clean the fuse contact enough to get to shiny metal and then take a voltage reading. You should have 12v on one side only with the fuse out. If you do not your problem is at the fuse contact on the back of the fuse block. There are 3 fuses bussed together, since those other 2 items work it only leaves that one contact.

cjsdad

You should also verify that the other fuses in the fuse box have 12 volts. The fuse contacts in the fuse box of my Cutlass were almost completely rusted when I bought it. I had to remove all the fuses, disconnect the battery and use a wire brush to clean it enough to get good voltage through all of the circuits. If the other fuses have higher voltage then the problem is confined to that circuit. If the other fuses are low too you may have a poor connection at the battery. Just a few thoughts on the subject. I hope yours is easier to resolve.

sheltonoil

All right! Cleaned it up and everything is working. Thanks, Eric. About to post a thread about my TDC mark being off on the HB if you want to mosey over to that.

oldcutlass

Glad you got it fixed. If your marks on the HB are not lined up most likely the outer ring slipped due to deteriorated rubber in between inner and outer hub. It needs to be replaced.

Fun71

I know this a late post but maybe someone in the future can use the information. If you are checking with a voltmeter you may get an acceptable voltage reading but there may not be enough current flow to power the circuit due to an elevated resistance. When I did electrical and instrumentation work at an industrial facility we used both a voltmeter and a "wiggy" to check circuits. A test light would work as well since it loads the circuit and verifies there is current flow through the circuit.

Your voltmeter reading of 10.7 showed that there was voltage but it was reduced due to the elevated resistance in the circuit. A test light likely would have shown there was not enough current flow to energize the circuit (no or dim light).

Anyway, glad you got it figured out. Electrical troubleshooting can be difficult and confusing at times.