driver window suddenly doesnt go up or dow.n

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Old Feb 19, 2016 | 06:58 PM
  #1  
Northern Custom Cruiser's Avatar
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From: Cincinnati, Ohio
driver window suddenly doesnt go up or dow.n

So i was just driving around and rolled my window down a smidge and a minute later it wont roll up or down. All other windows work and this is a 1983 custom cruiser. Please tell me its not some regulator and just some wire that came loose or a fuse i need to replace... and thanks in advance!!!!

Last edited by Northern Custom Cruiser; Feb 20, 2016 at 12:58 AM.
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 03:48 AM
  #2  
gs72's Avatar
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If all the other Windows work from the master switch, then it is most likely the switch or the window motor. Sometimes you can hold the driver window switch in the up or down position and knock on the door panel to get the motor to start moving again. Ultimately the door panel needs to come off for some testing with a test light at the door motor connector.
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 04:41 AM
  #3  
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"Please tell me its not some regulator and just some wire that came loose or a fuse i need to replace..."

ok, it's just some wire that came loose or a fuse to replace...

does that make you feel better?

Sometinmes you can get a few more actions out of a motor by holding the switch on while you manually move the glass up or down until the motor brush falls into place or whatever.

Removal of the door panel is not all that hard.

Maybe look at the switch first, see if it has obvious melty or loose wires. Test it for volts in and out. Color wiring diagram will be handy.
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 05:43 AM
  #4  
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GS72 mentioned this,but holding the switch in the up position and hit the door panel very hard a few times.It's similar to jarring a starter motor with a hammer when the starter will not engage.This works probably 75% of the time .If that don't help, then off comes the door panel. Good luck, Larry
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #5  
Northern Custom Cruiser's Avatar
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So i tried to slap it around alittle to no avail, however the passenger window stopped working for a moment today also but it started up again a few minutes later and ive had no issues since. Looks like tomorrow the door panel comes off. Im hoping to find a video showing the proper way so i dont damage anything. Also, are there any places online that sell the clips to secure the molding around the headliner? I broke a few taking it off and im assuming the same will happen with this door panel
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 07:38 PM
  #6  
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This might help you. Can't beat the price. $10 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Oldsmob...lWdaM5&vxp=mtr


Last edited by jaunty75; Feb 20, 2016 at 07:42 PM.
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 07:42 PM
  #7  
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You might also want this, for help in taking apart the door panels.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Fisher-...9VhvUG&vxp=mtr

Old Feb 20, 2016 | 07:47 PM
  #8  
gs72's Avatar
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This is by far the best panel removal tool I have ever used. It's about 40 to 50 bucks, but it will pay for itself in the lack of damage caused while removing panels. The clips are usually in perfect condition when it is used correctly. Mac and I think Matco sells them too.

http://https://store.snapon.com/Spec...l-P636315.aspx

Last edited by gs72; Feb 20, 2016 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Added info
Old Feb 22, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #9  
Northern Custom Cruiser's Avatar
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Thanks for the links to the manuals and the panel removal tool, ill give those a look. I took apart the door panel last night and couldn't figure out the problem, the motor seemed fine but i couldnt get it to operate and the wires were in good condition and were getting voltage in all locations. I thought id just have to suck it up and get a new motor but suprise! It started working fine this morning for no reason whatsoever. Im not going to complain because al least i now know how to disassemble the door. Thanks for all the help guys!
Old Feb 22, 2016 | 11:47 AM
  #10  
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From: Mo-Ray-Al, K-Bec.
Electric motors with brushes can burn the commutator causing that behavior. It only gives your trouble when it stops on that one spot.
Old Feb 22, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #11  
Northern Custom Cruiser's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Professur
Electric motors with brushes can burn the commutator causing that behavior. It only gives your trouble when it stops on that one spot.
Interesting, any tips on how to fix this problem? Is there any piece i car replace other than the whole mechanism?
Old Feb 22, 2016 | 04:35 PM
  #12  
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If in the future you decide to take out the motor, simply clean it and lube the appropriate areas. At this time you can inspect the brushes and lightly sand the commutator.

A can of electro wash or similar product, and some compressed air. You can get it an autoparts store or radio shack.

Spring loaded brushes in general can be fun, so don't lose any thing if you attempt to remove them. Oilite bushings on the shaft, usually don't need lube, but a drop of light oil won't hurt anything after cleaning. You can lube other areas in the door at this time.

These parts break in with each other, so after cleaning I would want to run-in and test the brushes and newly sanded commutator with a car battery or other 12v power supply before re-installing.

I have't done a window motor in a very long time, so these are just general suggestions on what to expect.
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 03:04 AM
  #13  
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There is a rubber bellows between the body and the door in which all of the door wiring passes through. It was very common for the wires to crack and break in this area causing intermittent to no operation. You might try peeling back that bellows and inspecting the wires in this area before replacing any parts.
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 05:47 AM
  #14  
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Don covered pretty much everything. This is why when your starter starts to fail, giving it a whack with a hammer can get you moving again. Kicks it slightly to get a contact .. enough to push it off the weak contact.
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 07:44 AM
  #15  
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From: Slidell, La
From personal experience:

You're talking about the master switch panel, right? The one with the 4 switches for each of the doors?

Sounds like you need a new one, dude. It happens.

Especially if the passenger side stopped working from the same switch assembly. And ESPECIALLY if it's intermittent. And especially if all the other door specific switches are operating their windows just fine.

I've tried taking the switch assembly apart and cleaning and rebuilding little parts and all that, but I found one on ebay one day for $10 and snatched it. Problem solved.

Last edited by Arrowstorm; Feb 23, 2016 at 07:59 AM.
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 08:10 AM
  #16  
stellar's Avatar
stellar
 
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Originally Posted by geardoc66
There is a rubber bellows between the body and the door in which all of the door wiring passes through. It was very common for the wires to crack and break in this area causing intermittent to no operation. You might try peeling back that bellows and inspecting the wires in this area before replacing any parts.
x2
Old Feb 23, 2016 | 08:42 AM
  #17  
Northern Custom Cruiser's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Arrowstorm
From personal experience:

You're talking about the master switch panel, right? The one with the 4 switches for each of the doors?

Sounds like you need a new one, dude. It happens.

Especially if the passenger side stopped working from the same switch assembly. And ESPECIALLY if it's intermittent. And especially if all the other door specific switches are operating their windows just fine.

I've tried taking the switch assembly apart and cleaning and rebuilding little parts and all that, but I found one on ebay one day for $10 and snatched it. Problem solved.
Actually, the weird thing is that the passenger stopped working twice one day for a few minutes each time from both the master switch and the doors switch itself while the driver had stopped working completely for about 2 days total. I couldnt get it fixed the night i took everything off and just parked her for the night. The next morning i went to roll down the passenger and accidentally hit the driver instead and it worked fine mysteriously. Havent had a problem since but i also havent put the panel back on just in case and i think i might do some cleaning and wire inspection like don and geardo said. Its really quite perplexing.
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