I'm a fairly large guy and working under the dash is problematic. It would almost be worth loosing weight for, except that I have too many bucks invested in my waist line...

I needed to repair the wiring to my clock before the new quartz converted clock is returned to me, from D&M Restoration. I found the problems (open wire from the battery source to the clock itself, and another open wire to the clock lamp from the light switch).

I'm not looking forward to my next under the dash experience of tracing out my glove box lamp problem for the 57 Olds. I'd much rather give my car a tuneup and boil my carbs, than crawl around the back part of the dash!

Any tips out there for doing behind the dash work?

 

Dan, I feal your pain.
I have huge wiring problems under my dash ( fix 1 thing and somthing else quits working) finding out my arms don't go the the same positions as they did 20+ years ago.

The only advise I have for you is take the seat out so you can lay down get a good light and a small pillow for the back of you head. you will thank yourself for it.

good luck!

 

I agree. Removing the front seat is a must for any extensive job. Otherwise, it's just awkward and makes a difficult job even more difficult.

 

Make sure you have something to pad the seat mounting studs. They can cause yelps...

 

I agree take the seat out, unless you weigh less the 50 lbs and no taller then 3'-2" it's just a bear

 

Taking out the seat seems to win hands down when working under the dash. Well worth the additional work, especially at my (approaching) dinosaur age.

Thanks for your responses.

 

I guess I will be taking out the seat in my cutlass this winter as I plan to chase down some shorts in my dash. What fun.
Larry

 

The studs for the seat mounts are absolutely a pain. I've been dealing with this sorting out the spagetti under my dash. Lay something down over them if you can. My curtesy light system is the final frontier I'm going to tackle.

 

Try taking the glove box out, then you can see what you are doing for the GB light and if the radio is out then you can see right to the clock...its a hell of a lot easier working on the '57 dash than the the Aurora dash

 

I had to repair my tic-toc-tach and do the quartz clock conversion on my 69 442. At 6'5, 220 lbs, my head was under the dash [with eyes,nose and mouth catching all that dried up yellow foam dust!], and my feet were on top of the front seat back! Luckily,my near dwarf-sized mechanic was a better "fit",and a few beers kept the swearing and complaints down to a dull roar.Dan, work out these issues,so that when I get MY 57 [if Yellowstatue ever gets back to me!!],I'll be able to hit you up foradvice Derek

 

Oh, and by the way,seeing as there's a "Land -Yacht" group on this site, should not we "Dinosaurs" also band together to avoid a second extinction?? Comments welcomed!!

 

Took the glove box out and was glad I did - put lots of light where I needed it and could get around a bit better. Could not fix my glove box lamp, as I need the GB light and Switch Assembly (switch is bad) - do you know where I can find one?; also no 12V at the GB light and will need to trace that out. I would hate to do any under dash work on my Aurora - I can't believe how tight everything is compared to the 57 Olds.

Good luck with that. Got mine working awhile back and ohhh what fun!

Amen to that Brother!

 

Dan; someone on this site is parting a '57 98 four door with air (complete air for sale) so he should have a glove box lamp for you

 

I just saw that late yesterday and have left him a message for the part.

Thanks.

 

Try turning on the park or headlights and see if you have 12v at the glovebox switch.

Up thru about 1970 Oldsmobile wired underhood, glovebox and trunk lights thru the taillight circuit. Idea was that if the lights were off, one of those lamps couldn't drain the battery.

 

You just solved my problem. I must have been driving around with no tail lamps because I found a blown fuse. Replaced it and everything works on that circuit including the glove box light.

Thanks very much,
Dan

 

That is what I found out on my car it was odd I didn't figure that out till I had the hood open and was working on my headlights and that is when I found out how that circut worked the trunk light has I belive a merc switch so it goes off when the lid is closed not shure how the hood one goes off as I never seen a merc switch.The glovebox lite has constant power though.I too know the horrors of wiring frusteration as I had to rewire half my dash with the mess I had.

 

Removing the steering column can give you a lot more room as well.
Randy C.

 

Oooooh, what is this Quartz conversion that people are speaking of? I figure that someone out there is modernizing the mechanical clocks?

My clock works for about a day if I give it a tap. Kind of annoying. Where is a good place to get the parts needed for the conversion? Not a chance that I'm going to send my clock away in the mail, I will do it myself, thank you very much.

 

Fairly big guy huh?

Iam in the 350lb range I have to have a skinney buddy help me out when I have to get up under there! lol

 

I think that the engine light switch for a 57 Olds must be a the same as the trunk light switch. It does turn off the same way as the trunk light. Mine is disconnected and am glad it is, for the car shows and all the work I've been doing on the engine lately.

I've never tried that but I guess there's always a first time. Sounds complicated and somewhat intimidating; but like they say "No guts, no glory" (I suppose).

Yeah, I know that pain. But I carefully sought this place out and insured my postage for $400 just in case the clock got lost in the US Mail. Fortunately. I have a backup clock (also in need of repair) that I want to keep original and will be having it repaired once the other one is quartz converted and returned.

You know, most problems with these clocks involve a simple but thorough cleaning. It is recommended that when you clean them, go to a watch maker for the right solution, along with getting a can of air. I took one of the clocks apart and it did not seem that complicated - but it's easy to say that because I really didn't delve that far into it. Clocks are really not my thing, so I'd rather send them out.

Good luck on yours.

So am I, plus I'm 61 y/o crawling around under there like a young man of 25. Who says the big dino guys can't kick a little butt once in a while. Hey man, this is my life and there ain't nothin keepin me from it (but I will admit, there are other jobs on the project I like a heck of a lot better)!

 

I hear ya........I can throw around tires and engine blocks but under dash wiring is a farm out! lol

 

Just got my clock back from D&M Restoration, out of Greenville, SC, installed it and it is working great on the quartz conversion. All the guts were changed out and the shell casing, face, etc. remained the same; they also polished the chrome and painted the hands. Cost was $182.00. Got all the under dash wiring straightened out (loose connector).

Nice to see a working clock in the old girl...classy.