wiring harness and cut wires.
April 14th, 2014, 09:04 AM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 106
wiring harness and cut wires.
I will try my best to explain this I can do pictures if needed.
1970 cutlass supreme convertible, 350
Previous owner converted from a an automatic shift on the column to center console. Converted to HEI ignition, and installed an aftermarket radio Poorly I might add. Plus an after market tach, has been installed in the dash in the right hand round hole. Is that where the factory clock would have gone?
So the previous owner was a hack on this car I would love to completely strip it down and start over but I really cant do that right now.
Problem: The lighter was missing when I got the car. I found a replacement. Found the orange wire and it even had the round connector on it. Plug it in nothing. Did some test with my voltmeter nothing. So, now I'm laying up under the dash. I see two wiring harnesses. One where the cigar lighter wire goes into which is heavy with a lot of wires going coming out of it. Another orange wire coming out of it cut. I see another wiring harness with also orange wire coming out of it. this harness only has a 4 or 5 wires coming out of it. whiite, grey , orange, and I think white with black strip. So my question is if I splice back together the 2 orange wires. can very bad things happen?? or at worse just pop a fuse. the strange thing is. From studying the CSM wiring diagram. It looks like, the cigar lighter and the courtesy lights share the same wire. I have only drove the car one time at night and If the courtesy lights are the one that light up around the switches and lights up around the floor area then those work..
1970 cutlass supreme convertible, 350
Previous owner converted from a an automatic shift on the column to center console. Converted to HEI ignition, and installed an aftermarket radio Poorly I might add. Plus an after market tach, has been installed in the dash in the right hand round hole. Is that where the factory clock would have gone?
So the previous owner was a hack on this car I would love to completely strip it down and start over but I really cant do that right now.
Problem: The lighter was missing when I got the car. I found a replacement. Found the orange wire and it even had the round connector on it. Plug it in nothing. Did some test with my voltmeter nothing. So, now I'm laying up under the dash. I see two wiring harnesses. One where the cigar lighter wire goes into which is heavy with a lot of wires going coming out of it. Another orange wire coming out of it cut. I see another wiring harness with also orange wire coming out of it. this harness only has a 4 or 5 wires coming out of it. whiite, grey , orange, and I think white with black strip. So my question is if I splice back together the 2 orange wires. can very bad things happen?? or at worse just pop a fuse. the strange thing is. From studying the CSM wiring diagram. It looks like, the cigar lighter and the courtesy lights share the same wire. I have only drove the car one time at night and If the courtesy lights are the one that light up around the switches and lights up around the floor area then those work..
Last edited by tbristol; April 14th, 2014 at 10:16 AM.
April 14th, 2014, 05:52 PM
#2
I know exactly what you mean. Mine has a second harness tie wrapped to the underside of the column up under the dash. I kept finding the correct color wires that had no power. Don't know why but am now leaning towards harness replacements. Hang in there.
April 15th, 2014, 04:25 AM
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 106
Yeah I'm seriously thinking of a new harness also. My problem is though, I think you would have to pull the dash to be able to do it right and easily. From the post I read pulling the dash does not seem to be an easy task either.
May 7th, 2014, 08:53 AM
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ajax, Ontario
Posts: 34
Right there with you. The previous owner of my 69 convertible installed a radio in the glove box and a trio of gauges (now that is usefull) but used whatever wires he could tap on : now the courtesy lights and the cigarette lighter don't work, I have a missing fuse in the panel and if I replace it, my markers lights come on constantly.
Post some pictures as you go along
Post some pictures as you go along
May 7th, 2014, 09:26 AM
#5
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 5,014
Two suggestions. 1. remove the front seat(s) and console if equipped so you dont need to see a chiropractor. 2. obtain the factory diagram/schematic. Once you have that road map most of your Qs should be easily answered. A new harness is always recommended if the original is hacked or aged beyond reasonable repair. A few properly executed repair splices are ok if the harness is in decent shape. If its a rats nest replace it. Cheap fire insurance. Yes the harness is easier to install with most things removed and out of the way. Its not necessary to remove the dash but is suggested as its makes installation MUCH easier. And you get to clean up all those rusty grounds.
May 7th, 2014, 09:30 AM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
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Right there with you. The previous owner of my 69 convertible installed a radio in the glove box and a trio of gauges (now that is usefull) but used whatever wires he could tap on : now the courtesy lights and the cigarette lighter don't work, I have a missing fuse in the panel and if I replace it, my markers lights come on constantly.
Post some pictures as you go along
Post some pictures as you go along
May 7th, 2014, 09:55 AM
#7
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,776
Not affililated with these guys at all, but to do it right, I bought a bunch of terminals and shells from here: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com
May 7th, 2014, 02:22 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 14,725
Yes, that is the clock pod. If no clock was ordered, there would be a dummy block off plate instead. The unused clock hole is a convenient place to install an aftermarket tachometer - I have a Sun Super Tach 2 in mine.
May 7th, 2014, 07:11 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,402
Before going any further, make sure ALL the bulbs in every exterior light socket is correct. If someone has forced a single filiment bulb where a dual filiment should be you can have all kind of electrical issues. Once that has been verified (hopefully you will find a incorrect bulb) reinstall the missing fuse,. Hopefully that will correct the marker lights staying on.
Wiring harnesses on the A-bodies are pretty simple, there isnt much to them. GM wiring colors didnt change much until the later computer controled models, even then they were consistant between models and years. On your car, orange powers anything that has constant power (lighter, glove box light, dome light, clock, etc) gray powers dash lights, there is a seperate fuse that protects dash light wiring. The dash lights get there power from the tail light circuit, no tail lights, no dash lights. White wire is the ground side of the dome light, it runs to the door jamb switches. White with a black strip is usually for extra interior lights (like what would be in a console, underdash lights, etc).
Get a factory service manual and study the wiring diagram. Try to avoid a reprinted manual, the reprinted ones dont have the wiring diagram in color. Remove the front seat, lay a heavy blanket on the floor to protect your back from the studs that hold the seat in. Start by cutting out all the Mickey Mouse add on crap, try to get back to as much of the original harness as possible. Its too hard to try and figure out somebody elses idea of "wiring". Once all that is done, it will be much easier to start over.
I always keep a couple wiring harness around, they are very useful for proper color and gauge wire for repairs and add-ons.
Wiring harnesses on the A-bodies are pretty simple, there isnt much to them. GM wiring colors didnt change much until the later computer controled models, even then they were consistant between models and years. On your car, orange powers anything that has constant power (lighter, glove box light, dome light, clock, etc) gray powers dash lights, there is a seperate fuse that protects dash light wiring. The dash lights get there power from the tail light circuit, no tail lights, no dash lights. White wire is the ground side of the dome light, it runs to the door jamb switches. White with a black strip is usually for extra interior lights (like what would be in a console, underdash lights, etc).
Get a factory service manual and study the wiring diagram. Try to avoid a reprinted manual, the reprinted ones dont have the wiring diagram in color. Remove the front seat, lay a heavy blanket on the floor to protect your back from the studs that hold the seat in. Start by cutting out all the Mickey Mouse add on crap, try to get back to as much of the original harness as possible. Its too hard to try and figure out somebody elses idea of "wiring". Once all that is done, it will be much easier to start over.
I always keep a couple wiring harness around, they are very useful for proper color and gauge wire for repairs and add-ons.
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