i have a couple questions about my 72 cutlass supreme just got the car running after a long time in a barn we replaced plugs wires points cap rotor condenser and motor skips under load we tried to set the dwell but needle on the meter fluctuates all over the place. after driving it home today noticed oil dripping from the coil.i didnt notice any play in the distributor .any ideas?

 

The coil needs to be replaced if it's leaking. Are you sure you had your dwell meter set right? If your dwell is way off it will not run correctly. For the time being set your point gap to .016 and then reset your timing.

 

Yes I replaced the coil with factory gm coil and replace vacuum advance due to some plat there and dwell meter held steady for a couple minutes then started to fluctuate again and coil seems to be getting hot I will check voltage to the coil today looks like someone replaced hot wire at some point . I have heard the wire coming from the ignition to power the coil once running is pink with a black stripe and that wire isn't connected to anything .what do you think?

 

I think that the resistor wire has been eliminated, and that someone has wired 12 volts directly to the coil. The resistor wire allows only 6 volts to the coil when the car is running, and there is a "jumper" wire from the starter that feeds 12 volts for starting only. If the points are switching 12 volts, then they will be burning out quickly. Also, if you are using "Made in China" points, the rubbing block is of poor quality, and you will need to adjust your points every 1000 miles if you intend to keep it running. I know this from experience. I now use NOS Delco points that cost more, but don't give me any trouble.
If the dwell isn't steady, the bushings in the distributor might be worn. Take the cap off and see if you get any sidewards movement of the rotor when you try to wobble it.
Almost forgot to mention, that a continuous 12 volts at the coil is going to burn out the coil in short order.

 

Thank you for your input I will check play in distributor and the voltage and get back to you

 

Ok so I checked distributor for play its nice and tight but I have 12 volts to the pos. side of coil with the key on and 14 volts while the motor is running that doesn't seem right

 

Sounds like the suggestion above is the resistor wire has been bypassed as your voltage should be approx. 9.5 volts with the engine running. You can buy a 1.6-1.8 ohm ballast resistor and hook it in line to the coil+ if the resistor wire is missing. Your symptom can also be a bad condenser.

 

Well I put in an inline resistor and now have 9 volts to the pos.side of the coil added new coil points condenser set the point gap at 18 degrees and timing at 8degrees btdc took it for a test ride ride and still skips like s school girl don't have a dwell meter til tomorrow

 

Point gap should be .016, or the thickness of a book of matches cover. Now, to consider other items that might be causing the "skip"... a plug wire that has come off, or even a plug wire that is on the wrong plug. I suggest that you bring the rotor to number 1 cylinder, and make sure that the timing mark in on the "0" degree mark. The check each plug wire to make sure that the firing order is correct. If all this checks out, then you might have a bad plug, or plug wire. Also, check the cap for a possible crack, and also check the plug wire towers for cracks or carbon tracking. If you can't find anything, then open the hood while the car is parked in a very dark spot, and look for any stray ignition sparks to ground, indication a bad wire or plug boot.
I had a similar problem with my 1962 Chevrolet, and I couldn't track it down, no matter what I did or checked. While out with a friend, he commented about the skip in the engine, and I went through everything that I had done. We checked for a bad wire, just as I explained above, and upon getting back into the car, he noticed that the engine smoothed out. He asked me what I had done, and all that I could say was that I stepped on the brake pedal while putting the car into drive. When I removed my foot from the pedal, the skip returned. That is when we realized that the power brake booster was the culprit. When the brake pedal is depressed, the crack in the booster diaphragm is sealed, and no vacuum leak. The booster will be coming out this winter for a complete rebuild and be re plated to original. Sometimes it is the strangest things that cause us problems.

 

I think I got the problem figured out the plate that holds my points down seems to move around when I try adjusting the dwell while pushing on the adjustment screw the dwell jumps all over us there a way to tighten plate or is it just worn out? Is it a part of the distributor itself? Thanks for all your help guys

 

That plate should be firmly attached to the finger from the vacuum advance can, and should have essentially no play as it moves around the shaft.



- Eric

 

Thanks ill see if I can tighten it seems like the play is up and down

 

Did you get your dwell to 30? BTW your dwell may move around as you adjust the points, do a little at a time remove the tool and read the meter, repeat until it's right. Then reset your timing.

 

Yes I set it to 28 degrees timing is At 8 btdc and it runs pretty good sitting the but during the test drive it skips

 

Disconnect your vacuum advance and drive it to see if anything changes.