My date coded 72 C voltage regulator stopped working. It wasnt allowing any charging. I put on an aftermarket regulator and it read as it should around 14.5 volts.

I would like to keep my date coded correct regulator if possible. I saw a potential fix was to run some fine sand paper through the contacts to clean them up. I did that and also cleaned up the plug connections. When I first started it up, it was reading 14.5 volts like it should but after a couple minutes it started to read high 15 to low 16 volts. I measured the gap on the connection shown in the picture. One top it is 0.015" and bottom was 0.013". I see there is a plastic nut to center that gap. Would that help or likely something else?

Does anyone rebuild them?

 

I recall seeing the procedure for adjusting the mechanical voltage regulator in a technical bulletin. I suspect you would be able to return your original to service using that information. I’ll try to find that info and post it, assuming someone else doesn’t beat me to it.

 

Here ya go

 

Joe, could you please post that as a PDF so it could be printed? It is valuable information that I haven't seen in a very long time.

 

Want to make sure this applies to my regulator. Mine has 4 terminals plus the one out the top for the radio capacitor. It also has two coils.

 

Before I start adjusting, any thoughts is there something simple that caused it to stop working then overcharge after cleaning? Bad connections?

 

Here you are (attachment).

 

It would have been helpful to have seen that photo first. The two-coil version is covered in this bulletin.

 

Joe's Two Coil/Two Unit VR in .pdf format Service Bulletin 1R-263 (attachment).

 

Checking air gap with feeler gauge - Does it say what size the feeler gauge is that was used?

 

After re-reading the air gap section & the ensuing follow-up section this is my take. You are not "setting" the air gap w/ a feeler gauge; instead, you are "measuring" the air gap w/ a feeler gauge.

 

Have a question on the mounting of the voltage regulator. Assembly Manual calls for 3 screws (part number 9422404). When searching this part number, AMK crosses this to a #14 X 1/2 zinc/wax. Nothing was metric back then so not sure what it really was and what finish it was. What was the size and finish(zinc or black oxide)?

In the aftermarket there are kits with rubber isolator nuts and screws. Are these to address the holes getting opened up and the screws not being able to bite into the firewall?

https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/pro...3-screws/51328

 

#14 is not metric, it's the number size that corresponds to 1/4".

 

Ok, thanks. Was the finish black oxide or zinc?

 

Silver finish....clear zinc or cad. You probably don't need the "wax" part but that may be for potential water penetration into the cowl area through those 3 holes...fairly unlikely.

 

Thank you