I have discovered a key off drain of 1.4 Volt. It has been running my battery down. I pulled every fuse and nothing changed on the meter. I pulled on red wire off of the junction at the horn rely. And it dropped to .1mV (this is a great reading according to Interstate Battery, Inc.). I thought I will just start the car now and see what happens. It started right up, but Tach and Volt gage were not working. I popped in the fuse where the Tach and V meter are working fine. With the motor running I placed the eyelet back on the junction stud and the motor changed RPMs lower. I have one side of Volt gage on a hot post at the fuse box when the key is on and the other to ground.

The red wire removed buzzes out at the red on the Voltage regulator and at the fuse box position marked "INS IPS" with fuse in.
And guess' to what the problem might be other then operator error?

The tester I am using to get the .1mV now was giving to me by the Interstate Battery shop. It has a 1 ohm resistor with a 5A fuse. Four lead on this set up. One clip goes to the battery terminal one to the Neg battery cable. While two connected to the Volt meter at the lead connection and the meter is set on DC voltage.
-72 Cutlass.

Can it be the Voltage regulator?

 

i had aguy who repairs motors and etc. print me off sheets with step by step instructions on how to check your voltage regulator and your altonnator and tells how to trace down problems with it all. its about 4 sheets. very good information if you would like a copy let me know and i can send you a copy by mail. chris

 

Anything like that is super to have. Can you scan it and email it. That would be great. Or PM me for address. I can scan it and post if you like.

 

X2 I've love to have one also. Please PM me

 

jamesbo, you will have to pm me. because im not sure how to pm you lol. i can send you a copy also just send me your address. chris

 

PM sent

Just click on my name and send a PM option will appear like majic

 

ill get it out to you james. chris

 

those have been mailed out enjoy. if one of you has a way to scan it and post it for everyone else then please do so. i am not able to do that with what i have. chris

 

dynamic88, Info looks good to me. Helps with understanding what is going on. This is useful in trouble shotting instead of just buying parts and putting them on, and hoping it is the right part replaced.
Here is a scan of the first five pages.

 

looks good to me. did you like the stuff? chris

 

page six.

 

My 66 had the same problem after it came back from the body shop. It had an electronic voltage regulator and the body shop had jumped it from a truck and fryed the regulator. I replaced it with a used mechanical type and no more trouble. I now have solved the total problem by removing the regulator and replacing the alternator with a one-wire unit, internally regulated.

 

not exactly...
you have just changed from one problem to another. the cs-type alternators are designed to fail. without getting into the exact specifics of why, the voltage regulator and rectifier diodes are the "new" problem.


bill