OK experts - need help - and let me start off by saying how much I hate electrical wiring in these old cars.
1970 Cutlass S - Courtesy Lights

All my interior lights work (dome, gauges, map, console, rear view mirror, ect...) except for the passenger side under dash light. Any time I put a new bulb in it, the fuse blows. I purchased a new receptacle for the passenger side thinking the receptacle is bad. Nope, even after replacing the receptacle it still does the same thing - blows the fuse. So logic tells me I have to painstakingly trace the short from the receptible back. At 6-2, 235lbs no small feet to lay under the dash.

Any quick ideas that I am missing? The whole harness works except for this socket.

Thanks.

 

I moved your post to its own thread, there is no reason to resurrect an old unrelated one with your question. If the fuse does not blow without the lamp your wiring is good and it's related to the socket area.

 

Can the sockets be swapped side-to-side? If yes, do it and see if the problem follows the socket vs. stays with the circuit.

Good luck!!!

 

Make sure you are using the correct bulb
cant remember for sure but I think it is a two contact socket if you use a single contact bulb you will short the circuit and blow the fuse

 

Yes, the original wiring has a two lead socket and the bulb is a single lead. Makes sense what you are saying. Now I just have to find a two lead bulb for the socket.

Thanks!

 

I made the same mistake on my 72 convertible found out that the two under dash and rear armrest courtesy bulbs are the same two pin sockets
once I actually stuck my head under to look I found out what the problem was. DUH!!

 

Good call...the wrong bulb base will blow the fuse for certain. I never thought of it.

 

How do you think I feel, I am an engineer that work on Military Défense for years and 5G telecom... I feel like a dope. I will just call it a senior moment.

 

Don't feel too bad, my list of screw ups and mistakes working on my car is long and embarrassing also and I am a chief Engineer working for a large state Public office
just go back to the basics when troubleshooting these type of issues.
one time 20 plus years ago I arrived at work to find the Day shift Engineer on a ladder digging in an Electrical circuit box on the Boiler room ceiling
He had every cover of every 1900 box off, I asked him what he was doing, He said the Boiler room doorbell isn't working. I asked him if he checked the Doorbell and he said "no, I started tracing out the circuit and haven't gotten that far yet" I grabbed a screwdriver and removed the Doorbell button and found the spring inside had popped off and was preventing the contacts from making.
I reset it put the button back up and tested it. after 5 minutes of work I fixed it. the more experienced Engineer had spent the better part his shift trying to figure it out.
I told him "I guess you started at the wrong end"

 

My list of screw-ups earned me a "been there done that" t-shirt. The t-shirt has gradually morphed into an elaborate wardrobe!!!

 

OK my friends I need help again. After putting the socket back into under the dash mounting panel the two leads in the sockets (no bulb, had to order one) touched and sparked and now I have NO electrical. The courtesy light fuse blew but in the past the car would still start and work fine without this fuse. I tried jumping it and I would only receive enough juice to hear the key buzzer - nothing else worked. No headlights, starter won't crank, no gauge warnings during the start mode.

Did the battery blow or did I fry another fuse outside of the fuse box? I should of stayed with the "if it ain't broken don't fix it..."

 

1) do you have the factory shop book with the color wiring diagrams? If not, get it.

2) I think it would be unusual, but you have possibly burned out a fuse link. Look at the junction block on the fenderwell.

3) always a good idea to either disconnect battery or remove the courtesy lamp fuse when fooling with constant 12v powered components.

 

If you have no power to the cabin, you probably fried the fusible link wire (red) that feeds from the horn relay to the bulkhead connector.

 

Incase you don't have it, This for a 72 but should be the same for 70 for the area of concern, If not someone will correct me