Trunk actuator wiring?

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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 11:55 AM
  #1  
plonka's Avatar
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Trunk actuator wiring?

I bought an OEM trunk actuator and switch. The actuator has a single ground wire which runs to the ground on the trunk release button. The red power wire from the switch is supposed to run to a permanent power source. I tried running to the orange power lead on the cig lighter (didn't work) and all I got was a faint buzzing sound from the actuator. Can't I run it to the fuse box under the dash? If so where exactly and what amp fuse do I use. The more detailed and concise your answer is will help me out greatly as this is not my bag. Thanks!
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 12:38 PM
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Allan R's Avatar
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If your car wiring for the trunk switch is anything like the 70-72 (likely) there's a jumper wire you can plug into the glove box light that will give you power to trunk switch. It might look like this

Old Oct 30, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Thanks, I'll give that a try. Worst thing that can happen is that I keep blowing 20A fuses right?
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 03:24 PM
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This is from the 76 Cutlass Assembly manual, there apparently is a pigtail that runs from the fuse block to the trunk light/release connector. You could probably pick one up at the local wreckers since there were a lot of these cars made. Same connector from 73-77 I believe.

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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:36 PM
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Is the plunger free to move? The switch is suppose to be powered by a key on power source. I wired mine to a constant power source so the power trunk will work without the key. The actuator is grounded through the trunk, there is no ground wire.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by matt69olds
Is the plunger free to move? The switch is suppose to be powered by a key on power source. I wired mine to a constant power source so the power trunk will work without the key. The actuator is grounded through the trunk, there is no ground wire.
The trunk power is always hot, not switched. It's the same principle as the interior lights - always hot so when you open the door they go on. The door jamb switch simply interrupts the circuit, opening the doors closes it.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:55 PM
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The trunk SWITCH is supplied power from a key on power source from the factory. Its done that way so you have to have the ignition key to turn on the ignition to open the trunk. Kinda a theft deterrent system. I wired mine to a constant power source (a extra unused orange wire near the glove box.) Press the trunk button, and it supplies power to the actuator and cycles a plunger which moves the latch in the trunk lock.
Old Oct 31, 2013 | 02:39 AM
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I haven't had time to fully investigate, but I did see an orange wire directly under the glove box. Just didn't see where it connected to. Is this the orange wire that connects to the red wire on the glove box switch, then the black wire goes from the switch to the actuator.http://www.ebay.com/itm/251355198808...1439.l2649This is what I bought.
Old Oct 31, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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I finally figured it out. The wiring wasn't the problem. The actuator pin was getting blocked in the J shaped channel on the inside of the trunk lid. I cut out the channel with a dremmel tool for the actuator to strike the lock pin. I don't know why GM would make the inside pattern of the trunk latch area different from a power trunk to non powered. Anyway, it works as should.
Old Oct 31, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by matt69olds
Is the plunger free to move?
You guessed it. Thanks.
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