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Hey guys,
Looking for advice and suggestions. I’m purchasing a 1972 Cutlass Supreme 4-4-2 that has power locks windows and seat. Verified to be a true 4-4-2 with all matching numbers. Full off frame restoration. However, it does not have a Tic-Tac-Tach. My questions are:
1- Should it? Maybe it was removed over the years and replaced with clock only?
2- Could one easily be added?
3- If so, does it have to be for a 72 Olds?
4- Would other year models fit and work?
5- Does it have to be for Olds? Other than for keeping everything as original as possible, Would one for Chevy, or other vehicle work? Or would there be a distinction between Olds and Bowtie?
1. No. It was an option, the U-21 Rallye Pack -- came with auxiliary gauges too.
2. Yes, there are reproductions available from many Olds aftermarket parts dealers. Haven't looked, but there are probably factory ones available on E-bay too.
3. I may be wrong on this, but I believe '70-72 were the same.
4. Probably could be adapted but if you're going re-pop you might as well get a correct-looking one.
5. Same as #4 but probably harder to adapt.
One caveat -- don't rely on it too much for high RPM powershifts -- they're none too accurate, factory or reproduction.
BTW, how did you authenticate the car as a 4-4-2? Did you find some paperwork?
Last edited by BangScreech4-4-2; Mar 10, 2025 at 01:48 PM.
1. No. It was an option, the U-21 Rallye Pack -- came with auxiliary gauges too.
2. Yes, there are reproductions available from many Olds aftermarket parts dealers. Haven't looked, but there are probably factory ones available on E-bay too.
3. I may be wrong on this, but I believe '70-72 were the same.
4. Probably could be adapted but if you're going re-pop you might as well get a correct-looking one.
5. Same as #4 but probably harder to adapt.
One caveat -- don't rely on it too much for high RPM powershifts -- they're none too accurate, factory or reproduction.
BTW, how did you authenticate the car as a 4-4-2? Did you find some paperwork?
The appraiser I hired told me everything about the car and paperwork appears to be accurate. I don’t have any of that in my possession yet but there are three 3-ring binder of paperwork, receipts, I don’t know what all documentation is in there. Also with the car is insurance papers and old pictures. So I would think he pieced something together. But hey, I don’t personally know the guy either. Once I have everything I my hands I will certainly get a second opinion from a local expert as see what that tells me.
Once I have everything in my hands I will certainly get a second opinion from a local expert and see what that tells me.
It may be too late by then. If you don't know the guy, at least by reputation, then you're taking a bit of a risk going on faith. If it were me, I'd get that "expert" to send me pictures of the paperwork items that he feels authenticate the car as an actual 4-4-2.
Of course it may not be as important an issue to you as it would be to somebody else. Just keep in mind that if you're paying 4-4-2 money, you should be getting a 4-4-2. Anything without proof should be treated as a Cutlass with 4-4-2 trim and priced accordingly.
It may be too late by then. If you don't know the guy, at least by reputation, then you're taking a bit of a risk going on faith. If it were me, I'd get that "expert" to send me pictures of the paperwork items that he feels authenticate the car as an actual 4-4-2.
Of course it may not be as important an issue to you as it would be to somebody else. Just keep in mind that if you're paying 4-4-2 money, you should be getting a 4-4-2. Anything without proof should be treated as a Cutlass with 4-4-2 trim and priced accordingly.
almost 56 years in the business with high ratings and accolades, yes, I trust him. That’s why I picked him. He is putting the paperwork together for a written, formal appraisal. Like I said, I don’t know what he’s looking at, but I’m pretty sure he knows what he’s doing. At least I hope so. We shall see. We all know 1972 was the hottest year so it takes several pieces of the puzzle. Apparently, and hopefully he has enough. But on the other hand, it’s such a meticulously restored vehicle. 442 was not the selling point in the ad or speaking with the owner. It was all about the accuracy of the restoration and rebuild all the way down to the hose clamps.
As stated, the tach was optional and can be added easily if the car was not ordered with it, A question that was not answered... no other GM tach (chevy, pontiac, buick) would be a direct bolt in for your car. You described the car as a supreme. Is the car a convertible? If it is a supreme hard top, it is not a 442. The 442 was available on the convertible and fastback bodies, but not the supreme hardtop (notchback) bodies.
As stated, the tach was optional and can be added easily if the car was not ordered with it, A question that was not answered... no other GM tach (chevy, pontiac, buick) would be a direct bolt in for your car. You described the car as a supreme. Is the car a convertible? If it is a supreme hard top, it is not a 442. The 442 was available on the convertible and fastback bodies, but not the supreme hardtop (notchback) bodies.
You'll pardon the skepticism, but typically appraisers know a little about a lot of cars. The 1972 Oldsmobiles are easily cloned into 442s because the 442 package was demoted to an option for that year. Be sure your appraiser actually understands this and is aware of the subtle differences that the W29 package brought to the Cutlass Supreme that year.
You'll pardon the skepticism, but typically appraisers know a little about a lot of cars. The 1972 Oldsmobiles are easily cloned into 442s because the 442 package was demoted to an option for that year. Be sure your appraiser actually understands this and is aware of the subtle differences that the W29 package brought to the Cutlass Supreme that year.
He is fully aware Thank You. I guess I should have said his expertise and passion is in Pontiac’s and Oldsmobile.
While I honestly do appreciate ALL the comments, advice and suggestions, I’m amazed at how quickly some people will question someone on here without ever seeing the vehicle nor a picture of key areas. Some seem to jump straight to its a Clone with limited information.
In my humble opinion, 1972 Cutlass Supreme was the beginning change from performance to luxury from Dealership add ons to shade tree add ons from then to current day.
I will say this, I am 100% satisfied with the history and documentation that follows this car.
People are quick to question the legitimacy of a car BECAUSE there are so many fakes out there. The vast majority of people see 442 and think nothing of it. Then add the ever popular W-25 hood, or missing options/hardware/other telltales, it raises even more question marks.
Last edited by matt69olds; Mar 11, 2025 at 04:10 PM.
People are quick to question the legitimacy of a car BECAUSE there are so many fakes out there. The vast majority of people see 442 and think nothing of it. Then add the ever popular W-27 hood, or missing options/hardware/other telltales, it raises even more question marks.
Yes understood about the clones and full game fakes out there.
However, Ray Charles could spot a fake if someone put a W27 10 bolt or 12 bolt cover on the hood. I’d be swinging someone tried to scratch my hood with one.
I believe the 70s high beam light was red, and the 71/72s were blue. This is a minor detail.
For an even more minor detail, any Olds A body made in calendar year 1972, until the end of 1972 production had to comply with Federal laws on the infernal seat belt buzzer. Cars with indicator lights got an updated left pod and they easily accommodated the seat belt light in there. Car with rallye pacs had a space problem, as the largeness of the temp and oil gauges made the brake and alt lights be really small already, so there was no room for the seat belt light. The solution was to use the wagon's tailgate ajar light on the center of the top of the dash for the seatbelt light. One wonders what they did on a 72 Vista with a ralley pac as both uses would have been called for, as the option was available.
I have yet to run into any 72 Olds where someone has added a Ralley Pac and went to the trouble of drilling the dash to put the seatbelt light on it, but that is one was to tell an original rally pac car (or an **** owner.) So, to sum up, in 72, the rallye pack did not change for seat belts lights, but something else did due to the above. Your call if you want to add it. I would not, if it were me.
Also, there's a wire to remove that pegs the temp to hot to illuminate the light during ignition on but not cranking that needs to be removed for using gauges.
Yes understood about the clones and full game fakes out there.
However, Ray Charles could spot a fake if someone put a W27 10 bolt or 12 bolt cover on the hood. I’d be swinging someone tried to scratch my hood with one.
ok. Maybe that was just a test. Did I pass?
Good lord, I screwed up big time!!! I hang my head in shame.
I believe the 70s high beam light was red, and the 71/72s were blue. This is a minor detail.
For an even more minor detail, any Olds A body made in calendar year 1972, until the end of 1972 production had to comply with Federal laws on the infernal seat belt buzzer. Cars with indicator lights got an updated left pod and they easily accommodated the seat belt light in there. Car with rallye pacs had a space problem, as the largeness of the temp and oil gauges made the brake and alt lights be really small already, so there was no room for the seat belt light. The solution was to use the wagon's tailgate ajar light on the center of the top of the dash for the seatbelt light. One wonders what they did on a 72 Vista with a ralley pac as both uses would have been called for, as the option was available.
I have yet to run into any 72 Olds where someone has added a Ralley Pac and went to the trouble of drilling the dash to put the seatbelt light on it, but that is one was to tell an original rally pac car (or an **** owner.) So, to sum up, in 72, the rallye pack did not change for seat belts lights, but something else did due to the above. Your call if you want to add it. I would not, if it were me.
Also, there's a wire to remove that pegs the temp to hot to illuminate the light during ignition on but not cranking that needs to be removed for using gauges.
This is really good stuff. I like knowing those minor differences that me( ordinary joe) wouldn’t know otherwise. Thank You.
Since I am more of a visual guy, if you were to find pictures showing the minor differences that would be something I could commit to memory better than my reading comprehension