Hi all,


The time has come to replace the power antenna on my 1988 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser wagon.


I had a new GM replacement installed back in 2008 at a GM dealership but it wasn't the correct one. The original OEM power antenna sits flush in the fender.


I've since found a OEM NOS replacement.


My question is - The body shop I've gone to is saying they have to remove the right fender, bumper and hood to carry out the replacement.


Sounds crazy to me. They assure me its not just a case of jacking the car up and lowering the wheel arch liner and putting it in.


Has anyone else carried out an antenna replacement? What did they find they needed to do?


Thanks for your comments.


Cheers.

 

If you open the hood and look down at the area the antenna is mounted in you will see it is pretty cramped in there. I have not changed an antenna on my Regency, but I would start by taking the wheel off and then the items mounted on the fender liner and then the fender liner itself. The liner should come out with a bit of jiggling and twisting. It's plastic and will flex somewhat. If that doesn't work then the hood and fender must come off, but I would try anything to avoid removing the fender, hood and bumper.

 

Cheers thanks Yellowstatue.

The repairer is adamant that it won't be possible to carry out the replacement by dropping the fender liner.

Looks like it's going to be a terrible job and all for an antenna that doesn't look right.

Cheers

 

I worked at Olds,Buick Pontiac dealer all thru 80'-90's,I am pretty sure they are correct about what has to come apart to replace the antenna on most GM cars of that period.

 

I worked at oldsmobile in the 80's and I replaced them by taking the wheel off, unbolting the fender liner, the bottom bolts on the fender where it bolts up to the bottom of the cowl, and a couple of bolts inside the doorjamb. The antennea comes out the wheelwell side while pulling out the fender bottom. Not really a fun job but not the worst either..

 

Hi Montvaleplace,


Thanks for your reply. I only hope the liner won't be too brittle after all these years. It'll be hard to find a replacement if it cracks.


When you pull out the fender for the bottom is it a two man job? Can you pull the fender out that far to get in and work with both hands?


I'm in London UK at present but will be coming over in the next months to do this work. Would sure like the opportunity to phone you for advice when I am over to discuss?

 

Thanks for your advice klm57. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to remove all those parts.


The repair shop I'm hoping to do it at will not doubt charge a small fortune for the labour.


Cheers

 

This works for the Cutlass of that era - had to do 2 of them. I even did it by myself. Skinny arms and a long sleeve shirt is needed. Just do not pull excessively hard on the fender or it may warp and the lines not match along the door anymore.
Fun it is not...

 

When you pull the fender bottom, check for shims before they fall on the floor.

 

Thanks for your comments Lady72nRob71 and Yellowstatue.


Was going to ask Yellowstatue what are the "shims" you mentioned?


Cheers.

 

Shims are little bits of flat metal they use to align the body panels. If you look at the fender bolts, you'll see them stuck under the lip of the panel. They're shaped like a squared off U.

There is another way, but it involves skill with a plastic welder. If you know the exact location of the antenna mount, you can use a hole saw to cut out a 4" section of inner fender, do the replacement, and plastic weld the piece back in. Where it is, nobody will ever see it. I use a similar method to access captive body mount bolts when they just spin in the hole. Cut the car floor above them, fix the mess, then weld it back shut. With the carpet back down, nobody's the wizer.

 

Thanks Professur.


I've been looking at my GM 1989 B Body illustrated parts catalogue (sheet metal front end body) and there is no listing or illustration of this part.


I'll discuss with the repair shop to see how they plan to attack this job.


Cheers.

 

Shims were used just as needed to adjust gaps during final assy. There could be one, or none, or 3, or anything in between.