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While the car was in cold storage, every time I needed to start it, it had to be jumped. As soon as I got it out of storage, I bought a new optima battery. Within a day the battery would go dead.
After some halfhearted searching in the forums, I had narrowed the issue down to either the ignition switch or the voltage regulator. With the key in the ignition switch, the Gen light would light up. I made this observation in the middle of the day when it was brightest out when I checked again an early evening, I noticed that the Gen light was on at different intensities, depending on the position of the key and eventually noticed that it was very dimly let even with the key out of the ignition.
The first thing I did was get a new voltage regulator, which was immediately available at AutoZone down the street after installing the new voltage regulator, there was no change. The Gen light was still on.
I put the old voltage regulator back in and ordered a brand new ignition switch and tumbler. After the switch was installed, the Gen light went out, sort of. During the ignition switch installation process I noticed a aftermarket toggle switch on the bottom of the dash to the left of the steering column. It was unlabeled, so I had no idea what that switch did and was in no mood to trace it back to its source after I had buttoned everything back up and tried to start the car. It would not start. It turned over strongly, but would not fire.
My instinct told me it was some sort of fuel problem, but then I remembered the switch. With the toggle switch in the on position, the car would start right up. I took the car for a test drive, drove around for about 5 to 6 miles, and when I got home and turned the key to the off position, the car would not shut off; it was still running. I hit the toggle switch and the car shut off.
I left the battery connected, but I left the switch in the off position, assuming that the switch would end the parasitic draw, and it did not. The one thing out of the ordinary that I had casually checked initially but checked again at the end of the test drive was the fact that the alternator was very, very hot. My Spidey sense is telling me I may have a bad alternator. I’m hoping the hive mind and its infinite wisdom will point me in the right direction. I realize I am probably missing some information so please let me know what other information is needed to help solve this problem
I also guess the alternator is the culprit. Try disconnecting it, both the small and heavy wires and see if the battery stays charged after a couple days.
Standard GM alternator or something else? Absent some unknown wiring modification, the GEN light and the car not shutting off both point toward an alternator failure. Start the car, unplug the alternator and try to shut the engine off, if it shuts off the alternator is the problem.
I'm thinking a little differently on this - especially in light you just "so happened" to find the spurious aftermarket toggle switch which you do not it's function. There are endless possibilities for that switch, but w/o me going back to reading the specifics (at the moment) it's likely an automatic fuel pump wired to the toggle switch or a battery cut off switch. I'll read further in a bit.
Yet, regarding the ALT, get the car started then measure the battery voltage at/on the battery. You should easily be able to read >13.8VDC, optimally you should be able to read between 14.2VDC - 14.8VDC. What is the voltage at the battery with car running?
Judging by the tiny size of the switch I would assume it would be for the fuel pump (maybe a homemade security system?) I'll take some ALT measurements tomorrow
Judging by the tiny size of the switch I would assume it would be for the fuel pump (maybe a homemade security system?) I'll take some ALT measurements tomorrow
As said, possibilities are endless. One thing is certain, you'll never know if you don't trace the wiring.
May be a bad diode in the alternator. Very easy to repair; replace all three diodes while you have the back half of the alternator removed. Good time to replace the brushes assembly also.
may be a bad diode in the alternator. Very easy to repair; replace all three diodes while you have the back half of the alternator removed. Good time to replace the brushes assembly also.
The MSD box needs two power ( 12 volt positive) sources, one is constant power, the other is from ignition switch. The constant power source will drag down battery but it takes awhile. Toggle switch could be cheap anti-theft devise in either wire or may be there to stop battery drain. An Alternator getting hot enough not to touch is charging hard, over voltage or resistence because of poor wire connections, too small wire size for charging capacity, lack of proper ground/negitive wires between battery, motor, alternator, and body.When a light glows when it is not supposed to be on it's because it is being used as a ground/negitive for something else that has power(12 volt positive) but no ground/negitive. You have most likely a bad or missing ground wire.
Buy a multi-meter - take measurements when you dive into this type stuff. Check for continuity on each of the wires, measure resistance, measure voltage, measure voltage drop against the ALT, etc. so you have some basis for moving forward with diagnostics.
Additionally, while you're on a shopping spree, pick up a circuit (light) tester. Buy one w/ the sharpest end point (probe) you can find. You can then stab directly into a wire anywhere along it's length troubleshooting wiring.
Absolutely, my next move is checking all the aftermarket wiring which so far is just the radio head unit and the triple gauge kit. There was an engine swap at some point so all the ground wires need to be checked also. I tend to shy away from diagnostics only because of 30+ years with the phone company and I am becoming much much more impatient since beating cancer. Cancer seriously messes with your head
Absolutely, my next move is checking all the aftermarket wiring which so far is just the radio head unit and the triple gauge kit. There was an engine swap at some point so all the ground wires need to be checked also. I tend to shy away from diagnostics only because of 30+ years with the phone company and I am becoming much much more impatient since beating cancer. Cancer seriously messes with your head
Understand. I hope you've beaten it. Time for you to enjoy some serious cruise time. Good Luck. Lot's of great folks on this site always willing to assist others.
Understand. I hope you've beaten it. Time for you to enjoy some serious cruise time. Good Luck. Lot's of great folks on this site always willing to assist others.
I beat it, And everyone here is fantastic, you included. Funny thing is I bought this car for my wife for Valentine's day and it's my first very Oldsmobile. I'm more of a blue oval guy but don't hold that against me
...my next move is checking all the aftermarket wiring which so far is just the radio head unit and the triple gauge kit. There was an engine swap at some point so all the ground wires need to be checked also. I tend to shy away from diagnostics only because of 30+ years with the phone company and I am becoming much much more impatient since beating cancer. Cancer seriously messes with your head
You meant to say all the aftermarket wiring "including" the MSD Ignition & toggle switch.
Pull the domelight fuse. Unhook a battery terminal, and insert a conventional (non-LED) test light inline between the battery and the terminal. If there's a draw, the test light will show it. Then, remove fuses one at a time. If the light goes out, you've identified the offending circuit.
Parasitic draw in my '67 442?
