I’m not certain I’ve fixed my tail light problem but I haven’t blown a fuse for 3 weeks since putting in the new switch.
I have 4 (2 old and 2 new) electrical situations that I’m attacking this weekend.
1. OLD Gas gauge dial is positioned way over full. I was told that a poor ground could cause this. I’ve cleaned the ground connection with no luck. Is there any way to check the sending unit without dropping the tank?
2. OLD A/C heater blower not working. Fan runs fine wired direct. Switch or resistor? How can I check the resistor?
3. NEW Engine temp light on all the time when key is in the on position. Both the new sender and original tested OK when ohm’d, zero. I understand that this light is looking for a ground so that is what the sensor should be when cool. I’ve concluded that I have a short in the harness or firewall connector. Am I going in the right direction??
4. NEW Turn indicator not pulsing is either right or left position. Going to pull the flasher and replace it. I mention this just incase the is some interconnection that I haven’t seen.
I have no drain on the battery. It can set for months and it cranks right up. I wish my Vettes were as reliable!!
Thanks for any assistance. Remember I’m electrically challenged so please excuse my poor/limited descriptions.

 

Welcome to Classic Olds!

1 - Try shorting the wire from the tank sender to ground and see what the gauge does. It would be the tan wire. If the gauge goes to empty, then the tank sender is prolly bad.

2 - Did you replace the A/C heater fuse in the fuse block?
Do you have A/C? If so, also check the fuse in the holder at the firewall or next to the horn relay - junction block.
The resistor can be removed and if it is bad, it will be visible.
Report back the findings and we will take it from there.

3 - The temp senders should be infinity when cool, 0 above 250*F.
If you are getting 0 when cold, the parts guys sold you the wrong one.
Disconnect the wire from the sender - light should be off in RUN position. If it is on, then there is a short to ground somewhere.

4 - If your 4-way hazzards work, then it should be the turn signal flasher - the one that is up under the dash to the left of the column.

#1 and 3 could also be a bad connection / short at the gauge. Pull the gauge (easy), unplug, and check the contacts for corrosion, shorts, or loose pins.

 

Thanks for the great overview. I'll answer each of the four tests I did:
1. When I grounded the tan wire going to the gage the gage went to zero. So I'm looking into a new sender. Can a 2-line sender work as some have (on ebay) suggested??
2. The resistor was a pain to get out. Once out it looked good on the inside, no breaks. I couldn't get the connector off so I'm soaking the with a PC blaster. I did not have voltage at the resistor, fan on 'high' and key in 'run'. Fuse block fuse good. Did not find the secondary fuse under the hood. My assembly manual shows only one under the hood fuse and that is over by the steering column. I' m not sure what it goes to.
3. Temp light on with the lead disconnected. I'm going to go with a gage set and remove the bulb if I have to but the light is out, it just don't know it yet.
4. The 4-way flasher worked. I'm in the process of getting a new one. The local stores don't have the square w/zero clearance on one of the connector. The round replacement looks like it will interfere with the top fuse. It will be OK till I get the correct one.
The car is at my daughters house so I can't just step outside and work on it. Plus I am having fun and games with a TI unit on my 63 fuelie Vette. It's close by so it gets most on my attention.

Thanks again. Hugh