Tom442

I talked to AllyOlds and thought I had it figured out but I can't wrap my mind around this wiring stuff.
Here is a scan of the wiring for 68 442.
Question is…there is the Instrument panel (IP) harness under the dash.
It has two white wires that go to the driver’s side door jamb switch.
The under-dash “courtesy light harness” has one white wire that is also supposed to connect to the driver’s side jamb switch and one to go to the passenger side jamb switch.
The original drivers jamb switch (which I don’t have) is provisioned to accommodate all three wires (pin connector) if vehicle is equipped with the courtesy light harness.
My switch installed is a two pole (two male spade) connector.
Can I splice the two IP harness white wires together or all three white wires with a female spade connector? Then connect to my existing switch or do they have to be separate to that jamb switch. I know the switch when door open, closes and completes the circuit for the buzzer on the horn relay and the courtesy lights. With the door closed the circuit is open. So would it effect anything with two spliced to one connector or all three?

Thanks

oldcutlass

The issue you will have is the buzzer, if you splice it all together. When ever you turn them on with the dash switch the buzzer will go off. So you need the different switch at the door.

matt69olds

The 3 pin door jamb switch is used on cars with a console. One pin provides ground for the key buzzer, one for the courtesy lamp in the headliner, and one for the courtesy lamps in the console. Without studying the wiring diagram I would guess if you connect the white wire to the console and headliner courtesy lamps together and use one terminal on your 2 pin door jamb switch, and use the 2nd pin for the key buzzer it would work. Or, leave the annoying key buzzed unhooked and use 1 pin for each courtesy lamp. I'm not sure if the 3 pin door jamb switch is available in the aftermarket.

MDchanic

Bingo. Most of us disconnect those anyway.

- Eric