Anybody know where to find a replacement switch in the column? Used to be the only ones you could find were from the Corvette guys but in non-tilt. Now the ONLY ones they seem to carry is for Tilt/Tele columns and I think the switch was different for non-tilt which is what I need. GM used to carry them (part# 7804414) but that number no longer works. My system seems to be intact (door switch/horn relay connected/etc.) but I haven't pulled the wheel to check the switch in the column.

 

I'm sure I would have a good used one if you find yours is broken.
Let me know & thanks.
Scott
c. 317-727-7041

 

Thanks Scott. I pulled out the Factory Service Manual to diagnose it and it said if the dome light works but not the buzzer to 'jump' the buzzer terminal to ground. I did and it buzzes so the manual says it has to be in the column switch and/or wiring. I'll buy one from you if you have a good used one because I have to pull the wheel and signal switch to check it so I want to have a replacement in hand. Let me know.

 

Your problem is a common one with these older cars. Try this test. With the key in the igition, open the door. Push the key fully in till it wont go any further. Did you hear the buzzer? Probably stopped when you released it too? That's a better test of the column switch than jumping the buzzer.

I find those old warning buzzers really have an annoying sound and am looking at changing mine out to a chime (tone generator) that will also be hooked up to the lights on as a reminder. My warning buzzer has been like that for years. Fortunately I'm changing out my column next spring to a tilt one, and it's already built and waiting. Key switch is nice and tight.

 

Thanks Allan but no buzzer no matter how hard I push on the key. My Chevelle buzzer would only work if I pushed 'in' and 'up' on the key so I tried everything. Call me crazy but I love that sick sounding "AAHHNNNNN" and am determined to fix it. It just typifies an 'old car'.

 

Ok, you're crazy. Great description BTW. If I change mine to a tone generator, I'll ship it to you for your salivating pleasure

 

Crazy?!? He's utterly deranged.

Since 1980, that darn buzzer has been the first thing I've disconnected on every GM car I've owned. On my current car, I handed the seller the money, took the paperwork, shook his hand, opened the hood, yanked the pink wire, closed the hood, and drove away.

- Eric

 

- Anybody have a switch or know of where I can buy one?

 

I was wondering why Mike wanted the annoying thing, but I can understand wanting everything to work.

I can deal with the buzz better than I can some of the tone generators. The one on my F150 is especially annoying. A quick ding-ding-ding...

 

Mike,
I'll check my extra columns today & pull one for you. Shoot me your address & I'll get it shipped out today if I can.
IIrc, it is a little 1/4" or so square plastic thingy with 2 brass? tabs?
Thanks.
Scott

 

Hey Scott,

Are the guy that was reproducing the chromed plastic lever for the remote hood lock option a while back?
Randy

 

Wrong answer "AAHHNNNNN" "AAHHNNNNN" "AAHHNNNNN" "AAHHNNNNN" "AAHHNNNNN"

I understand why you do it Eric, I find it really annoying too.

 

Randy,
Sorry, I'm not the guy.
Scott

 

Yep that's it. PM sent!

 

figures you had a pink wire too

 

Ooops, my bad —— It's actually the pink and black.

- Eric

 

Found a replacement switch and pulled the column apart and replaced it. Everything went perfect until I hooked the battery back up. NOW the buzzer buzzes constantly (hot all the time) regardless of key in or out and does not go off when depressing the door jamb switch!! Did I do something wrong in the column? I thought even if the switch was grounded in the column the door switch would 'open' the circuit when depressed. So, now I'm worse off than I was! I swapped horn relays and have the same problem.

 

See now why everybody ditches them?!

I had one ground out in my 73 Delta ragtop's column and it wouldn't shut up till you pulled the battery cable. It had not worked the whole time I'd owned the car, then one night I'm driving along and BAAAAHHNNTTT!

The little pink wire was delicately snatched out of the steering column wire connector the next morning.

 

l thought by installing a NEW switch I would be OK - guess not. So if you definately think the switch is the cause then I'll pull it back apart.

 

If you got the right part, I think you just answered your question with your own question - if that makes sense. Did you cross connect the 2 brass tabs with the wrong wires? I'd take a close look at that before I called the switch bad.

 

The new switch looked identical to the old switch and I installed it the same way. If anything the two brass 'tabs' off to the side were slightly thicker on the replacement switch. I guess I'll be pulling back apart.

 

Sorry to hear you're running into that. I'm going to leave my annoying buzzer alone for now. I'm having a hard time visualizing this part - I've heard it but never really seen it. By any chance is it on the lower part of the column?

 

It's right at the end of the ignition switch - the tip of the key presses it when the key is fully inserted.

- Eric

 

Just for clarification, the ignition switch(technically) is the 4 inch long switch mounted to the column near the brake pedal. According to the chassis service manual, the switch near the key is the "key warning switch". The manual shows how to remove and install this switch. Good reading. You should grab a copy, especially if you plan on doing a lot of the work on your car yourself. It will save you many times it's cost in money, time and frustration.

 

I have all the Factory Service manuals and followed the procedures exactly. That's why I'm frustrated

 

Correctamundo.

I mis-spoke. Should have said ignition lock cylinder.

I'm sorry if I was confusing.

As for the problem, you did something, though you may have done it somewhere other than inside the column.
I'd just start from scratch and test all of the parts of the circuit, starting with the key switch at the column harmonica plug (disconnect the plug to start testing). If the problem stops when you disconnect the plug, that's a fairly good indication that the problem's in the column.

- Eric

 

Is this it? Is it possible the contact point is making continuous contact with part of the lock cylinder bowl?
KeyBuzzerClip.jpg

 

That's it! I've been messing with my old switch (which looks fine) and I pryed on the metal tang to allow the key to make contact sooner so I think I'll try the old switch and see what happens.

 

While they're both out, make some side by side comparisons. Maybe there's something that sticks out right away that just looks wrong... Based on the removal and insert procedure it's really hard to believe you did something wrong installing the new one.

 

Well got it apart this morning and found two problems. I removed the new switch I put in and checked the metal 'tangs' again and looked correct until I touched one and it fell apart! So it must have been broken inside making contact all the time? My old switch looked intact so I thought I would put it back in when I realized the retaining clip is MIA (see Allan's picture above). I think it may have fallen into the column when I was installing the new switch because it's nowhere to be found and without it the key simply pushes the switch aside rather than depressing the contact. So now I'm on the hunt for a retaining spring clip. And I thought I had trouble finding the switch, I'll probably NEVER find that!!!

 

Retaining clip has been discontinued by GM but, believe it or not, a parts dept. locater search found one in a KY dealer's inventory. I just ordered it. The saga continues...

 

So if the spring clip was broken in the original part, that would explain why there was no pressure being generated onto the tip of the key and you had no warning buzzer. Good detective work!!

Why not just get one of the OEM ones from Scott? Or is that plan B if this doesn't work?

 

EXACTLY what I'm thinking! Part is coming in a few days so I'll let you know what happens.

 

Wow - quite a quest for the "Holy Rasp"...
Hope you find the clip!

I like my bonger much better than the raspy buzzer.

 

Well I'm embarrassed to say I'm still messing with this but I have found the problem. With the switch installed I can run jumper wires from the tangs to the backside of the signal switch contacts and everything works normally (key in-buzzes, key out-stops buzzing, etc.). However when installing the signal switch the tangs are not making contact with the backside of the signal switch. I tried prying up, etc. and because I can't see underneath when installing the switch I can't check for proper alignment. Right now I'm waiting for ANOTHER retaining clip and now know where the original clip went. When you pull the switch out of the 1/4" x 1/4" hole the clip falls into the 'rabbit hole' inside the column housing never to be seen again! What a stupid design! This is getting REALLY close to not being worth it!

 

REALLY close.

- Eric

 

Can you not get a small magnetic probe in there to get the clip? On the tangs, (I feel embarrassed for even suggesting it) can you wrap some aluminum foil around them to help extend them just a micron so they will make contact? If you're getting another one anyway it couldn't hurt to try making a temporary 'extension'??

When my buzzer stops working, I'll be sure to say a few words of kindness to it as I pitch it into the trash

 

Well the problem is the clip has to be squeezed together to go into the hole. Now that it is pushed thru the other side and 'sprung', even if I could reach it, I could never squeeze it to pull it out. I thought about disassembling the column center section but then I'm dealing with the shaft bearing and all the cogs for the shift/key interlock, ignition, etc. Just easier to get another spring. It doesn't appear that the clip(s) that are in there will affect anything or go anywhere.

 

Don't you have an ancestor who wrote a "Law" about that sort of thing?

- Eric

 

Glad its not me who has to deal with that. Knock on wood.... Hope the clips don't cause any jamming or pressure on the new one going in. I hate the thought of taking a column apart. Could probably do it, just hate the thought of it.