Key buzzer
September 21st, 2015, 09:48 AM
#1
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Key buzzer
Just picked up a 68 442 convertible and I'm sure I'll be on here a lot. O.K. here's my first issue. Buzzer goes off when you open drivers door even without key in ignition. Doesn't do it with pass door though. Any ideas?
September 21st, 2015, 12:23 PM
#3
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
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Specifically, it's the pink wire with black stripe that plugs into the horn relay.
The 1968 cars have a one-year-only wiring setup for the key buzzer. The ignition switch has a separate set of contacts (called KEY + and KEY -) that are only used for this buzzer. The KEY + contact is connected to the pink/black wire from the horn relay. The KEY - contact is connected to a white wire that goes to the driver's side door switch.
The way the system is supposed to work is that these two contacts in the ignition switch are connected only if the key is in the cylinder. Then, the door jamb switch grounds the wire with the door open, causing the buzzer to go off. If this happens without the key in the cylinder, there must be a short in the ignition switch. Pulling the wire off the horn relay is a short-term fix, but if the ignition switch has funny stuff going on inside, you don't know when something else in the switch will short out. Replace the switch.
The 1968 cars have a one-year-only wiring setup for the key buzzer. The ignition switch has a separate set of contacts (called KEY + and KEY -) that are only used for this buzzer. The KEY + contact is connected to the pink/black wire from the horn relay. The KEY - contact is connected to a white wire that goes to the driver's side door switch.
The way the system is supposed to work is that these two contacts in the ignition switch are connected only if the key is in the cylinder. Then, the door jamb switch grounds the wire with the door open, causing the buzzer to go off. If this happens without the key in the cylinder, there must be a short in the ignition switch. Pulling the wire off the horn relay is a short-term fix, but if the ignition switch has funny stuff going on inside, you don't know when something else in the switch will short out. Replace the switch.
September 23rd, 2015, 08:28 AM
#7
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Here's my next one: Does any one have a diagram of tic toc tack wiring? Can't really make out pics in assembly manual. Can kind of make out feed and lamp connections but not sure where feed from coil goes.
September 23rd, 2015, 08:34 AM
#8
Old(s) Fart
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Location: Northern VA
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Page 15-33 in your 1968 Chassis Service Manual. If you are talking about the clock tach, there are only three connections on the back of the pod. There are two threaded studs and one small screw. The screw is the feed for the illumination lights. The threaded stud with a blade terminal is the +12v feed for the clock. The other terminal is the feed for the tach that connects to the negative terminal of the coil. If the stock wiring is in place, this terminal has a wire with an inline fuse holder.
October 3rd, 2015, 05:50 PM
#9
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Like I said I knew there would be many questions. Previous owner installed a replacement Classic Auto Air a/c on car and removed the a/c relay when wiring it up. Correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't the thing still be connected through the relay? They had it connected to the hot feed from wiring harness but that made compressor run all the time so I switched to other wire from the control and that makes compressor come on only when a/c control is switched on. I still don't think is right though?
October 5th, 2015, 10:12 AM
#10
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
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Someone hacked things up nicely it sounds like. Get the ignition switch sorted out before it causes more problems. They do become sloppy inside as they age. Consider installing a battery disconnect switch at your battery on the negative terminal so you can isolate battery power when not in use (USA made $30 unit not the $2 one).
The AC does not sound right for sure. If its a new system it should cycle, but only when the switch on the dash is moved to the two right hand settings. It should only get a signal when called for. I don't think the adapted systems have the cycle feature when the defrost is called for? Is anything left of the old system under the hood, e.g. the pump, POA valve etc...? IMO Id contact the Classic Auto Air people for an installation diagram/schematic and instructions. Id imagine the adapted system should pull power from the same connections as the OEM did so the dash controls work. Im just not sure if they use the OEM relay. Where is/was your OEM AC relay located? Passenger fender or other?
The AC does not sound right for sure. If its a new system it should cycle, but only when the switch on the dash is moved to the two right hand settings. It should only get a signal when called for. I don't think the adapted systems have the cycle feature when the defrost is called for? Is anything left of the old system under the hood, e.g. the pump, POA valve etc...? IMO Id contact the Classic Auto Air people for an installation diagram/schematic and instructions. Id imagine the adapted system should pull power from the same connections as the OEM did so the dash controls work. Im just not sure if they use the OEM relay. Where is/was your OEM AC relay located? Passenger fender or other?
October 6th, 2015, 03:10 PM
#11
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Thanks, Good idea about the disconnect switch, I'll look for one. Getting ignition switch next. All the components were replaced in a/c system so you're right about getting the correct instructions. Looks like a/c relay was on fender.
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