I have a '72 Cutlass S getting an LS1. I'm installing a new fuse block and am not sure what to do with the Coil wire from the ignition switch to the fuse block. Since there isn't a single ignition coil that this wire goes to, do I need to hook it up somewhere still? Is it needed for the ignition switch? Does the ignition switch receive power through the coil wire or is it used to switch power to the coil so it can work? My gut feeling is that I don't need it and I can use that fuse location for something else but I need help.

 

If you are asking about the pink wire that goes to the primary side of the coil, it energizes the coil. The power goes from the ignition switch to the coil. The pink wire is a special resistance wire that is used to lower primary voltage to prevent burning the points when the car is running by lowering the voltage to the coil.

Bottom line, it is not a good place to power something else from unless you replace the wire and know the designed intended current load for that circuit on the ignition switch. If you pull more current/electrical load than it is designed for you could burn/damage the ignition switch leaving you stranded or worse yet start a fire under the dash. It probably is designed for rather low current as the coil is not a large electrical load. Secure it safely by insulating the terminal end if you do not use it because it is a hot wire when the ignition is on.

 

My plan was just cutting the wire from the switch and connecting one side of the fuse to power and the other to something else so I can take full advantage of all of my fuses in the block. I just needed to know if I needed the wire to the switch since I don't have points anymore.

 

No, he's not.
He very clearly says "the wire from the ignition switch to the fuse block"
Are you seriously telling us that you are doing an LS swap, which is a fairly complicated type of a modification, usually involving wiring in a computerized sequential multi-port fuel injection system, and you don't know how the electricity gets from your battery to your engine to make it run?

Seriously?

Power flows from the red wire from the main power terminal on the horn relay to the ignition switch.
From there, in the RUN position, it goes to the pink wire, which branches in two:
One part goes through the fuse block to the instrument panel,
The other part goes through the cowl plug, where the resistance wire is plugged into the other side, and that goes to the (+) coil terminal.

At no time does power for the coil flow through a fuse.

I would strongly recommend consulting the wiring diagram in the Chassis Service Manual before casually dropping in that LS motor.

- Eric

 

Well then the people from E-Z wiring must be retards because thats how they have the coil wire hooked up. The switch connector is prewired and all of the wires are labeled. One wire goes from the switch, to a 30 Amp fuse then to the engine compartment. It only uses the fuse block for the fuse and it does not receive power from it. My engine has its own harness and this is mainly for lights and gauges.

 

As Joe would say, "The mind reader's on the fritz today."

You didn't say you were using non-factory wiring.

I have no idea how E-Z wiring set up their kit, and because of that can only provide you with guesses as to what will or will not work.
They should have provided you with a complete wiring diagram so that you can troubleshoot any problems that may arise.
If they did not, I would recommend calling and asking them what they would suggest.

I'm afraid nobody here will be able to provide definitive help for you, unless they've used this product before, themselves, or unless you can post a clear wiring diagram that we can look at.

- Eric