I'm trying to do a tune-up on my 1970 Cutlass S, and would like that to include a new distributor cap...

Problem is, I bought the car as-is which included many under-the-hood mods, and although most are fairly easy to identify (as they are clearly labelled with brand identity and part numbers) I can't find a single letter or number on the distributor cap.

The reason I assume it's not a stock replacement is that sitting on top of the cap is an Accel HEI Super Coil model 140003 and everywhere I've checked (accel's site, summitracing, jegs, even napa & checker etc.) all state that it is NOT compatible with a 1970 Olds Cutlass 350

How the hell do I figure out what distributor cap to purchase? All I can tell you is that it's grey

 

Have you called Accel with that part number and see what cap it matches?

 

Sounds like an HEI distributor

 

Probably a drop in HEI distributor which wasn't stock on a '70 Cutlass. Any cap for the HEI unit will work and it doesn't have to be an expensive one either. Just a stock cap will suffice.

 

Or you can just take the cap to your local parts store and match it up. Most national auto parts chains carry Accel.

 

Wow, thanks for the responses and guess what? You're all right!

I got a hold of Accel and they gave me their specific cap that matches, but they also told me that the coil in question would work on many (if not all) other HEI distributors.

I do have a follow-up question though. Using information gathered here I headed up to the local auto-parts store, where I was told that if I'm running an HEI distributor/cap/coil, I have to use 8mm spark plug wires, which they don't stock, they only had standard 7mm wires. Is this true?

 

Yes 8mm, and an Hei requires a full 12v so make sure you don't have a resistor wire connected to it. I like Taylor Spiro-pro wires, the auto parts stores usually stock it in universal sets.

 

When you say universal, do you mean you have to cut/assemble them yourself?

 

That is the best way in my opinion, the universal sets where you lay them out and cut the spark plug end to fit and crimp the end on and slide the boot down. That way it is a much neater looking job than the pre-cut and assembled deals where some of the wires are almost always too long. I used MSD wires on my car and they were cut to fit and in stock at our local Autozone.

 

Worst case, you might have to buy a plug wire crimper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-7-Wa...42d20a&vxp=mtr

 

You can also buy them preassembled, just specify what engine they are for.

 

I'm not set on these exact ones, but this is the right style, yes?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-4051

 

Those would work

 

Or these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ta...-size/5-7l-350

 

I need to verify my replacement HEI was wired correctly sometime before I bought the vehicle.

1971 350/4bbl but I seem to have 2 wires into the BAT+ power into the HEI - one of them appears to be the yellow wire from starter solenoid.

So what I really want to do is identify the other wire as being 'resistor' or not, or what color is the resistor wire and can I go to the source for this wire and replace it with a nice plain 14g wire?

sorry I'm so dense...

 

No problem, your not dense. Look at the wire and it will feel a lot stiffer than the yellow wire, usually tanish with a woven style of insulation. If it was not changed then yes, I would run a new one from a switched 12v source. You're right the yellow wire comes from the starter.

 

is it possible the woven insulation on a green wire??? Little by little I'm unwrapping a slight mess.... also have a 'black w/orange stripe' that has been just cut off - I think that's the color I'm seeing....

 

I'm not familiar with the your cars wire colors. You can measure the voltage with the car running at the Bat+ connection, it should be close to what you are reading at the battery at the same time. If its considerably lower at the distributor, you probably have the resistor wire hooked up.

 

I could not get the above link to work, but did find the item on ebay, here -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-7-w...kAAOSwwNVTuy2h

 

Probably because the ebay link in that prior post was from 2013.

 

Also verify the grounds to the engine and to the firewall are intact clean and tight. Bad engine grounds & battery neg cable connections will shorten the life of the HEIs control module.