Hood / Trunk Light Power Source?

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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 01:28 PM
  #1  
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Question Hood / Trunk Light Power Source?

Have a 1966 Toronado with original hood & trunk lights mounted. The feed wires have been cut to both.
They both have mercury switches in the sockets. I'm guessing the cut feed wires are hot all the time.
There is also a courtesy light switch on the dash, but it has no effect.

Anyone know where the power source is coming from?
Thanks!
Old Jul 7, 2020 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by streets
Anyone know where the power source is coming from?
Battery.
Do I win?
(There's one born every minute!)
Referring to myself, of course. Sometimes I cannot help myself. Genetic perhaps.

Last edited by Vintage Chief; Jul 7, 2020 at 02:31 PM.
Old Jul 7, 2020 | 03:06 PM
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On a '68 Cutlass the trunk light is always hot and the under hood light is hot when the park lights are on.
Old Jul 7, 2020 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellowstatue
On a '68 Cutlass the trunk light is always hot and the under hood light is hot when the park lights are on.
Which doesn't apply to a 1966 Toro...

Is this where I get to say "look in the Chassis Service Manual"??? PLEEEZE?

The trunk light is powered from a brown wire in the rear lamp harness (not to be confused with the tan wire to the fuel tank sender).
The underhood light is powered by a brown wire that passes through the firewall grommet.
Both are hot all the time and fed by the 9A fuse labeled UHOOD GBOX LAMP.
Old Jul 7, 2020 | 05:32 PM
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Thank you everyone. You are right Joe. This is where you get to say (again) look in the CSM. And as Always-Thank You.
These old eyes can't see print that small anymore let alone colors.
Old Jul 7, 2020 | 07:17 PM
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The reason I own a large magnifying glass. They are wonderful for reading small print and tracing wiring diagrams - makes them sooooooo...much easier to read.
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
The reason I own a large magnifying glass. They are wonderful for reading small print and tracing wiring diagrams - makes them sooooooo...much easier to read.
I hear you. I have owned two original CSMs over the past 20+ years. One was given me by a member. They were hard to come by at those times and not in the best of shape to begin with. Purchased a new one from RA 3 months ago, but like Joe said in another post ...be careful of reprints, they don't provide color wiring diagrams, Lesson learned.
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 06:09 AM
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It pains me to admit that I now have one of these specifically for reading things like wiring diagrams...



Old Jul 8, 2020 | 08:59 AM
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LOL Joe
I like the optional lights and now have to have one.
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 10:49 AM
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I have one like Joe’s but w/o the lights. Works great. My CSM is an original and the colors are crisp.
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 11:13 AM
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FYI, you can use the camera on you phone as a magnifying glass. Just focus on the item and use the zoom function to increase the size until you can see/read whatever it is.
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
FYI, you can use the camera on you phone as a magnifying glass. Just focus on the item and use the zoom function to increase the size until you can see/read whatever it is.
Another good idea. Iv'e been taking pictures of whats left of my wiring diagram & zooming in on it-just gets a little grainy.
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Which doesn't apply to a 1966 Toro...

Is this where I get to say "look in the Chassis Service Manual"??? PLEEEZE?

The trunk light is powered from a brown wire in the rear lamp harness (not to be confused with the tan wire to the fuel tank sender).
The underhood light is powered by a brown wire that passes through the firewall grommet.
Both are hot all the time and fed by the 9A fuse labeled UHOOD GBOX LAMP.
Joe,
For some reason Yellowstatue's 1968 Cutlass works the same as this 1966 Toronado. The 9 amp fuse is dead when the headlights & parking lights are off-then goes hot whenever either are on. I was glad to see them both working correctly (mercury switches) after I reconnected them.
However
Because I connected the LED brow lights to that same Brown parking light wire, I may have inadvertently jumped that circuit.
Just wanted you to know.
Dave
Old Jul 8, 2020 | 05:11 PM
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Just for clarification, the underhood lamp on a '68 A-body is supposed to come on when the hood is lifted. The parking lamps/headlights don't have to be on. This changed on the '69 A-body to the underhood lamp being dependent upon the parking lamps being on for the underhood lamp to work.

Randy C.

'68 4-4-2 convertible
'69 4-4-2 convertible
Old Jul 9, 2020 | 04:44 PM
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Thank you Randy.
Dave
Old Jul 9, 2020 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
It pains me to admit that I now have one of these specifically for reading things like wiring diagrams...
Manufacturer name? 3X, 5X, 10X, 20X? I think I'm going to upgrade mine - the lens has seen much better days. Thanks.
Old Jul 9, 2020 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Manufacturer name? 3X, 5X, 10X, 20X? I think I'm going to upgrade mine - the lens has seen much better days. Thanks.
I believe I found it.
https://www.amazon.com/JOYPEA-Magnifying-Illuminated-Magnifier-Jewellery/dp/B085PQN28Z/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=12+LED+Magnifying+Glass&qid=1594339648&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/JOYPEA-Magnifying-Illuminated-Magnifier-Jewellery/dp/B085PQN28Z/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=12+LED+Magnifying+Glass&qid=1594339648&sr=8-3
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