1962 98 394ci non ac.

I'm sure there are threads on this subject but the search isn't giving them to me.

I'd like to swap to an alternator. I'd like to add a better stereo and some driving lights as I couldn't see the road in some intersections last night and danm near ran in a median.
And I just want to go alternator.
Yes I am getting old and my eyes apparently are getting bad but that's besides the point I want to drive her at night.
Anyway a link to a comprehensive thread or just plop the information here on what I need and need to do would be great.

Thanks

 

Although some people aren't fond of the single wire alternator, it is the most simple to install. You may have to fab or modify some mounting brackets, but one you have that done and the belt on it and aligned, run a 10-gauge wire from the alternator to the horn relay. I don't know the 62 well but I assume everything connects on the horn relay.

 

I would be "some people".

Ask yourself why, when GM tried to shave every penny possible from the cost of building cars, would they continue to use the extra copper for a three wire system if one wire was good enough? Sorry, but one wire alternators were designed for use on ag and construction equipment that typically runs at a fixed RPM. Automotive alternators don't. I converted my 62 F85 to a CS130 alternator over a decade ago and it is trivially easy. The brown wire at the regulator that runs to the GEN idiot light goes to the "L" terminal on the CS130 (or the no. 1 terminal on a 12SI). Run a sense wire from the "S" terminal (or no. 2 on a 12SI) to the junction stud on the horn relay. Run a 10 ga wire from the BATT terminal on either alternator to the horn relay stud. Eliminate all the other generator and regulator wiring. Done.

 

Thanks red

Edit: Joe answered my next question. 🙂

Thanks Joe!

I'm assuming The CS 130 is a standard parts store number?

 

I like that the gen light will still function

 

One wire alternators typically put out little or no voltage below 1000-1500 RPM. That means that at idle on a hot day, when you are running the A/C, electric fan, stereo, etc, you are getting nothing from the alternator.
The other reason is that you can buy a 95 amp 12SI (ACDELCO 3342305 or REMY 20269) or a 105 amp CS130 (ACDELCO 3351011 or REMY 91310) for less than half the cost of an aftermarket one-wire unit. All of the P/Ns I've listed come with V-belt pulleys (not serpentine) and have the correct lugs to bolt directly in place of a 10DN alternator (so they bolt to any 1962-later Olds alternator brackets).

Your car, your money, your choice.

 

The most ridiculous part about one wire alternators is that they disable the GEN light function that is already in the car's wire harness, and then vendors like Ron Francis will sell you a Low Voltage Sensor module for another $35 that makes it work again. A fool and his money...

https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/98

 

Thanks again Joe

you replied as I was typing my first reply.

CS 130 it is! Thanks

77bucks at rock auto👍

 

Joe, you were the some people I thought of. I don't doubt your suggestion is better. When I got the 54 I had, it already had a single wire alternator on it. I did replace it with a larger one when I put the AC in it and added a volt meter at the same time. I will say I never had any problems with it.

 

Be aware that the CS130 pigtail will have four wires in it. You only need to use the two of them. Ignore the other two and either remove the terminals from the connector or insulate the unused wires so they can't inadvertently short out.

 

This ought to be one of the simplest swaps imaginable. Olds itself switched from generator to alternator midway of the 1962 model year and I believe factory airconditioned cars may have gotten alternators earlier than that.

There may be some differences in the mounting brackets and a small change in the wiring. Follow Joe P's guidance and instructions and it will be easy.

 

I thought only Starfires with A/C got the alternator for 1962. Certainly they were across the board for the 1963 model year. I used a 63 bracket on my 62 F85.

 

Once you gave me the part # I actually found one of your replies on a hotrod website from 2007 with detailed instructions.

 

I'm assuming that bracket will have to be sourced used?

 

Hopefully that included the part about being sure to run a ground strap from the rear frame of the CS130 to the block. The one downside of the CS130 is that it is sensitive to grounding of the regulator. If you use the 10DN brackets, only the front frame contacts the bracket. Now the ground path from the regulator is through the aluminum rear frame to the iron stator core to the aluminum front frame. Galvanic corrosion between those parts compromises the ground path, leading to regulator failures. There is actually a TSB out on this from the late 1980s. I learned about this the hard way when the CS130 in the future second ex-wife's car would routinely go bad at 12 months. After the third time, a worker at the local parts store showed me the TSB about the ground strap. No problems since then. The one in my 62 has been working great for about 14 years now.

 

Yes, from any 63-64 394 (also a 62 if it came with an alternator).

 

It did not. Thanks for adding that info.

 

It may not be that simple and easy. The aluminum timing cover on 63-4 394 is different from the big cast iron chunk on the 62.

It's gonna take me a little digging to get all the part numbers sorted.

My Jan 65 parts book has a drawing of 63 with Delcotron and no airconditioning, but so far I haven't found one for 62, either with generator or Delcotron.

 

If you can get the part numbers that'd be great

 

From what I can gather, upon studying the '63 parts book is that the only '62's that had a Delcotron were some A/C cars and Police cars.
The group numbers for the brackets are the same, whether Delcotron or generator.
The A/C brackets are a completely different design than non A/C.
With A/C the Delcotron hangs on a bracket bolted to the A/C compressor.
The only brackets for a Delcotron without A/C in '61 & '62 were police cars.
The part numbers are not the same as "63's without A/C.

It would be interesting to hear from someone who has actually done this conversion on their '61 or '62.

 

So if I'm getting this right the non ac alternator brackets are the same from 61- 62 and 63?
It's the ac cars that are different.

 

No, the non A/C brackets are different in 63 than the ones used in 61-62 police cars.
As Rocket raider said " there may be a difference in the front of the engines ".
It would be good to hear from someone who has actually done this swap.

 

Joe used a 63 bracket in his 62 F85 but not sure if it the same setup as my 98.

I'm gonna get the alternator and see how much fab work is involved to modify my existing.
If that's not gonna work I'll have to dig a little deeper.
Well I'll have to ask you guys to dig a bit deeper, I have no idea where to look besides here.🙂

Thanks guys I'm enjoying the learning

 

No, the F-85 is an almost completely different car than a full size car. (88,98, Starfire)
They only share a handful of parts.

I think that adapting what you have may be the best choice.
A piece of pipe of the right length and several washers could be used on the bottom to shim it in the right position to line up the pulleys
The upper bracket might just work OK, or it may need to be modified..

 

Thanks Charlie.

 

Got the alternator today but no pigtail.
I went to JPs post on HotRodders from 2007 and found he ordered an alternator for a 1990 Custom Cruiser.
Went on RA and looked up that vehicle and there it was.

Figured I'd add thos in case someone does the same mod.

Thanks again guys!

 

Looks like a couple spacers on the stock adjuster arm and the bottom mount, fab a small bracket for the rear alt support bolt and it should work.
Unfortunately the alternator does not spin freely, there are 2 spots where it hangs up and stops. Hitting something inside. You can spin it past those spots but it is being returned so pretty much on hold until new one comes as I have to drill out bottom hole on alt to accept stock bolt.

 

Finally got it mounted. Had to cut and modify the adjuster arm and added a brace to hold back of alternator. Couple spacers at bottom of bracket and it worked perfect.
Alignment looks spot on.
Bottom bolt of alternator lined right up with existing bracket.
Top and bottom holes of alternator had to be drilled for the bigger bolts also.

Grounded back of alternator to block per JPs advice.

Wiring questions to follow.

Please ignore the booger welds.😁

 

Nicely done!

 

I understand the instructions JP gave me early in the thread.
I know where the wires from the new alternator need to go.

What I want to clarify is the existing wires at the Regulator. I know JP said eliminate them all I just want to make sure I eliminate them properly.

The brown wire has a small brown wire connected to it.
If I'm reading the diagram correctly that is a ground. So it can be snipped and capped.
It appears the big Brown wire goes into the firewall where it junctions and goes to idiot light. Snip and cap?

Red wire also appears to go in firewall where it junctions with 5 other wires one which goes to the horn relay. Another the main lamp switch, 2 to the fuse box and one to ignition switch.
Looking at the diagram it appears if I snip and cap at the Regulator all will still recieve power from horn relay junction.
Correct?

There is also a resistor, suppressor thing attached to that red wire. Just chuck it?

 

Thanks Joe!
There was a lot of head scratching on how to support the rear. I kept focusing on the rear bolt on the alternator and how to attach it to the existing bottom mount. Just wasn't happening and still being able to add the adjustment slot.

Then sitting in my easy chair one night the design pictured popped in my head from somewhere. I got up real quick and made a crude sketch before I lost the thought. Lol

I burnt up my Dewalt drill making the slot in the rear brace and had to buy some carbide burrs to somewhat smooth it out but I am pleasantly surprised at how it turned out.

 

The brown wire isn't a ground. It is the wire that powers the GEN light. The round thing on the red wire terminal is a radio noise suppression capacitor.

One more time: Red wire goes to the BATT terminal on the new alternator. Brown wire goes to the "L" terminal. Run a wire from the "S" terminal to the junction block.

 

So to clarify the brown wire has 2 ends. One at the generator/alternator and one at the Regulator. I need to connect new wire from alternator to brown wire at Regulator and eliminate brown wire that went to Gen correct?

So now you are saying instead of 10 ga. wire from batt on alternator to horn relay you are saying attach it to red wire at regulator?
Correct?

 

Yes

Either way works. The results will be the same.

 

Thanks Joe

I wanted to make sure I understood completely. I have fire extinguishers but prefer not to use them on my cars.🙂

 

When I had my Starfire 50 years ago, it was generator equipped. I used the 55 amp common alternator at the time and an a external regulator. The car was a/c equipped and the bracket is unique to 62 only. I don't remember the wiring after all these years but it was simple.

 

14.4 volts at battery while idling. 👍

Thanks Joe P and everyone else that replied.
Couldn't have done it without yall