The fastest way to diagnose/troubleshoot both lines is using a light circuit tester. If you don't have one, buy one w/ a VERY sharp point on it. This allows you to poke/probe (puncture) directly into the wire(s) to see if you're getting 12VDC.
I'm unclear what's going on w/ that green wire at/on the wiper fuse. Is that green wire connected there or is it just laying there (in the image)?

 

I did get a tester, I have a helping hand coming for that today to trace them.
The green wire is scotched connected to a black wire to my underdash stereo. That will get changed as well.
The orange wire with brown stripe is in red clip with green wire into fuse box, is also a concern.
Some creative connections from this guy for sure.

 

As you get rolling along, mark a piece of tape w/ known wire function adhere that piece of tape to ea. wire until you’re all done. That little step keeps you on-track. Think of disconnecting extraneous wires & get back to square one OEM schematic wiring then configure/reconfigure the extraneous wires in appropriate/better locations. As Eric mentioned, remove all the fuses, use a small wire brush and brush those fuse holders as clean as possible. Corrosion/Oxidation on those holders increases resistance - clean ‘em up you’ll be happy you did.

 

For reference, GM used to be pretty good about color and function. Always test to be certain, but here's a few usual suspects
pink= ign 12
red or org= constant 12v
black= ground exc horn
White= door switch negative or brake switch positive
Tan= headlights (low?)
Lt green = headlights (high?)
brown = parking lights
Gray= dimmer circuit for dash lights
Yellow or brown = accessories

 

Anyone remember the mythbusters episode where the guy used .22 bullets to replace a blown fuse in his fuse box? A dead short will fire one.

 

I did see that one. I commented to my wife that I encountered an empty .22 case in a fuse panel once, but not a live one.

 

Wow!
Now that's packin! Lol