Fusebox!
A 30 amp fuse is in the 20 amp spot. Obviously, I would think it should be a 20 amp. Did the P.O. do this, or some reason the factory?? Does this type of fuse pull out the same as a buss fuse?
1972 Olds Cutlass convertible, w/AC
Thanks!

30 amp in a 20 amp slot? Factory? ( im thinking not) or a misguided hacker? 1972 Cutlass convertible A/C

 

Possable the 20 amp blew. All they had was a 30 so that what went in. I would put a 20 in and see what happens. If the 20 blows . Time to trouble shoot. The factory definitly, did not put a 30 in there. Leaving it in there could cause a meltdown

 

Agree w/ McGhee - absolutely must be a 20A fuse. Additionally, you have some very peculiar/unique mojo occurring in that fuse box. Be sure you're able to trace the connections of each of those non OEM wires tapped into that fuse panel.

EDIT: That 30A blade fuse pulls straight out towards you. Fuses are designed differently & for specific applications, I'd suggest you replace that fuse w/ a correct 30A buss fuse.

 

And the electrical scematic has it at 25 amp for wipers....20 amp to heater next to it. The stripped black and white wire not identified on scematic....?

or brown and white???

 

Thank you for confirming that! I did give a pull, but its pretty snug.
I'll swap that 30 12v 30 amp for the 20 amp.
The red wire is to HEI. Top left connector is radio.
Not my mojo, thats why I'm in here.
I'm sure a better spot for power to electric choke??? Thats the green wire that melted on me after if fell off choke onto manifold, shorted out and fuse link by relay smoked up.
New fuselink now....

 

Nothing wrong w/ your fuse panel image; yet, this image (1972) provides a tad more clarity...

 

Don't sweat it. Put the recommended size in. If it blows, you need to investigate further. Look at the bright side; it's not a bolt, wrapped in aluminum foil, or somehow else WAY higher than 30a, which is only 10 high at the most.

 

Sorry, what is the question? You're referring to a "striped" wire not a "stripped" wire, correct?

 

Thank you for that. Only difference is, I have another fuse top left for my power top in 72.
Where is best to tap for electric choke? Ill get that blade connection out before I kick it!

 

striped, sorry. In scematic.

 

Needle-nose pliers or smaller regular pliers, grab that blade in the middle and pull directly towards you. Depending on how long it's been in there you might need to "rock" it some to get it out.

Have to think about that electric choke - JoeP has a write-up in electrical sub-forum I believe.

 

and why is the 10 amp fuse on right side have a red end?
I had that and thought it was old, no good and I replaced it.

 

Thanks, Chief!
I wasn't sure how it was in there.

 

Electric choke wiring

 

Pulls straight out towards you...

 

Like your fuse has red on the LH end in the GUAGES fuse bank? I don't know...could be manufacturer. Many made the Bussman buss fuse types.

 

Guilty (back in the day) as a quick fix.

 

Yeah, right. Regarding "that" wire...umm....yeah....right. I guess it's what...white and two black stripes or black and two white stripes. Whatever the hell color it is, it was changed in 1972. I owned a '71 CS convertible and in all my reviews of wiring schematics, that wire was previously BLACK w/ a DOUBLE YELLOW stripe to the wipers. Could Oldsmobile have errored by not providing the wire color? Say it isn't so.

 

I have seen those colored fuses in many cars I have parted over the years.

I think the factory color coded fuses by current rating. The colors are far easier to see than trying to read the stamped number on the fuse end.

 

Matt - Great point. I believe you're 100%.

 

On a side note, you need to clean the rust off the fuse holder tabs, that will cause you more issues than the 30a fuse.

 

That is not a "30A blade fuse".

That is a 30 A circuit breaker similar to this one.



I also agree that it should not be there. They are available in a 20 A version from Amazon and other sources. It is removable exactly like a regular fuse but may need to be rocked back and forth in the socket to reduce any corrosion on it and make it easier to remove. Fuses are cheap, so do any diagnostics with fuses to find any circuit overloads.

 

cj - Son of a gun. Good catch, Thanks for that correction!

 

Yes, thats the style in there.
I will relpace with a 20 amp glass fuse.
Why in the world would someone put a 30 amp in 20 amp spot! Wow.....
Thank you to all for the input!
Much appreciated!!!
Jack

 

Better question is why would someone install a 30A CIRCUIT BREAKER.

 

Scary part, It's been 5 years since I bought it. 😬

 

On a dark, cold, windy night when the blower fuse pops on your heater, you'll put just about anything in there to stay warm. I've seen most of "just about anything" too. 1/4 inch bolt, gum wrapper around the blown fuse, wadded up aluminum foil, bobby pin, nail, the list goes on. As substitutes go, this one is pretty mild.

 

Y'all be actin' like an extra 10a on a circuit is going to burn the car down. It is definitely not that big of a deal. LOL

 

I'm just trying to get it right. I will replace with the correct fuse.

 

Did you say gum wrapper? Lol
I think this one was Juicy Fruit!
[img alt="Tucked in on contacts!!
"]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/classicoldsmobile.com-vbulletin/2000x901/20250609_080809_e0accd9214f9e12e6aa5f70f93c3f6e26f 1f922d.jpg[/img]
Tucked in on contacts!!

 

 

Obviously, your image didn't post. It would be fun to see what that juicy fruit image looks like when you get a chance.

 

[img alt="When I looked in behind the breaker/fuse why it wouldnt come out eaisly, I could see silver and thought it was solder! I didnt want to pull and cause any damage. A double wow! Looks like it was sabotaged!
"]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/classicoldsmobile.com-vbulletin/2000x901/20250609_080809_d332c4dcc22153781f607baae4eb662e36 8cfe12.jpg[/img]
When I looked in behind the breaker/fuse why it wouldn't come out eaisly, I could see silver and thought it was solder! I didn't want to pull and cause any damage. A double wow! Looks like it was sabotaged!


Photo

 

Still, no image - you'll figure it out.

How To Post Pictures/Images

 

So, in theory, the 20 was probably tripping due to excessive draw from the blower motor. The automotive environment is harsh. Grease cooks and dries out. Contacts oxidize and corrode. This all leads to higher than designed amperage loads. Try a standard glass fuse first. If it pops, you are exceeding the designed load of the circuit. This will cause the autoreset breaker to cycle. The best case scenario: it burns open. The worst case scenario: it welds itself shut and becomes a fire hazard.

 

Get the right fuse in it. Or you might need some of this.

 

Lol
Thats exactly what I saw coming out from under dash when choke wire fell off and shorted out on the manifold, I was pulling in my driveway when car shutdown and the bottle opened! Lol

 

Did photo post for you to see?

 

Yes. I can see it now.

 

An oversize fuse AND tin foil, just to make sure!
I put in a 20 amp glass fuse, car ran fine. Nothing blew.
Still tracing to see why no power to the wiper and radio fuse lines. The others are ok.