Hi, still working on my 65 Cutlass electrical problems. As earlier posted I had a problem with it over charging. Can't seem to get to the bottom of this issue. I have come across another problem with no power to any components including no wipers, no instrument lights, Heater, radio. I'm at a loss here? I double checked all leads where do I go from here?

 

bad ground

 

And check the output sides of those fuses.

- Eric

 

When a car gets that old, fuses and connectors can get corroded. Ground connections as mentioned can be a problem for sure. You are probably just going to have to shake it down starting at the battery. The electrical work I learned in the USAF has been very beneficial in fooling with old cars.

 

I'll say something here that I know is gonna start a flame war .... wiring harnesses aren't forever. The insulation ages, dries, wears, and cracks. Connections flex, corrode, and loosen. Yours is now 50 years old. If you're chasing gremlins ... you might be well advised to consider replacing the entire harness. Aftermarket replacements can be had from several source, at widely varying prices. In general they're built to be installed very very easily when compared to hunting down failures. Colours are matched, and the wires are marked along their length with where they attach. But more important is the assurance that you've not only eliminated the single greatest risk of fire in our classics, but blanked the slate on wiring problems for the next few decades too.

My personal method for deciding if the wiring is done ... pick a wire that's exposed to air and drive your thumb nail into it. If the mark remains by tomorrow ... it's time to update. If your nail goes right through ... pull the battery, it's not safe. As to why replace the entire harness for one wire? Because I've seen repeatedly that working with the harness to fix one problem loosens connections and breaks insulation along the length. You solve one problem and create 3 more. Wire harnesses aren't cheap .. but neither are tows.

 

I'm too busy to flame you in detail right now, so consider yourself flamed for all the usual reasons in the usual arguments that we replay at the usual intervals.

- Eric

 

Couple of ideas for you. My stock harness on the 64 F-85 "looks good" I did some cleaning, repairing and re-wrapped it where needed it. I kept the minimum amount of amps running totally through the old wiring and fuse panel by using some relays and replacing bulbs with LED's. When I get to it I'm going to run relays to the headlights-that's a lot of amps running through your old headlight switch! Relays act as your switch and all the power no longer goes through your stock headlight switch. In addition I used a Painless 7 Circuit Boss to run all my newly added accessories including A/C. The Circuit Boss gives you I believe 3 constant hot and 4 with key on hot. I did have a new engine harness built to order from M@H, I'm running an HEI distributor, no factory heater, and a high output alternator. Again just some ideas, when you figure out where you at least I would look into adding relays and LED bulbs to your wiring system. Lots of articles on it.

 

Also X2 on TripDeuces on the grounds-there should be a ground somewhere on the back of the motor to the firewall. I put mine on the pass side head to the firewall, in the stock position.

 

And the regulator has to ground thru its mounting feet, so clean those areas. Headlight grounds have a wire from front panel to battery (-), typically...

"I'm too busy to flame you in detail right now, so consider yourself flamed for all the usual reasons in the usual arguments that we replay at the usual intervals.

- Eric"

That's funny as hell. Like the numbered jokes of the future.

We should just have a sticky with enumerated std-issue flames and refer to them as needed.

 

( Octania- And the regulator has to ground thru its mounting feet) I recently bought a 62 Dynamic 88 and have a few issues-that's a very good tip. Forgot about the ground for the regulator!