Hi Everyone ,I have a problem my 67 442 charging system at Idle 8RPM the gauge only reads 11.? If I hold the pedal down to about 10RPM to goes to 13.5 thats fine I had the alternator ck out the guy up the amp on it no help He said the bottom pully was to small I never had this problem before the engine was rebuilt the light dim too I was wondering if it could be the horn relay juction box plus my dash lights are real dim maybe Light switch,and or horn relay,I wire alt enternal reg any help please Thanks Steve

 

Okay, Steve, you've got so much going in here it's hard to know where to start.

You've got a one-wire alternator.
That means it's not original.
It also means that the wiring has been changed to some extent.
Also, one-wire alternators do not work as well as the originals in many applications because of the lack of the sensor wire.

You also say that the engine was "rebuilt," which means that a lot of things may have been changed.

You also say that you've been told that your "bottom pulley" is too small.

So, the questions:
Is your crank pulley smaller than stock?
Was your crank pulley changed when the engine was "rebuilt?"
What exactly was done to the engine when it was "rebuilt?"
Did you notice the problem as soon as the engine was re-installed, or did it happen later on?
How has the wiring been modified in order to accomodate the new one-wire alternator?
What is the voltage at the (+) post on the back of the alternator at idle, at 1,000 RPM, at 1,500 RPM, and at 2,000 RPM, with all of the accessories off?
How about with all of them on?

Finally, your engine seems to turn very slowly.
8 RPM? 10 RPM?
Are you sure it's not turning at 800 RPM and 1000 RPM?

Oh, and also, if there is a language that you speak better than you speak English, we have members who speak a number of other languages, and who could probably help to translate your messages for the group, so that we could all better understand them.

- Eric

 

Ok Ill Try To start I bought a pulley set-up from mondelo 2 years or so all chrome so it's not orignal The Guy who changed the alt amp said it's a 1 wire alt so I took the other clip off Maybe I should put it back on,Aftermarket ALT,MSD added This car has more wire's then I care to have,it has a Alarm, 2 amps systems for the radio, a System like LOWJACK,I bought it like that, Electric 16"Fan in front of Radiator,
Engine was totally done over remove and tear down Bore Block .060,use 350.030 Forged Pistons,Resize Connecting Rods ,Float Rods,Balance Rotating Assembly,Lunati .540/.540 285/285 Hyd.Flat Tappet.Camshaft Assembe Enigne.Paint and Install,
It started after engine that's why I think wireing But don't no where to start I can't do what I use to do because of health .
I tape the 2 wire clip that was on the alt so the wireing been changed w/msd etc.
I can't test it today but I will in the next few day. The RMP is 8,000
ERIC Im doing the best I can with my language I'm not a ace Mech. I been around for 59 Years I know a lot but Im not a Mech.Hope this is clearer.
Steve

 

I think it's time for some photos here.

I can tell it will be hard to figure this out based on descriptions alone, as it sounds like there is no guarantee that any of the wiring is original or is hooked up correctly - hard to give advice without a firm starting point, such as factory wiring, to build on.

If we can't figure this out from photos, we'll have to advise you to start from scratch and systematically go through the entire charging and electrical system until you find the problem.

If you could take pictures of the front of the engine (pulleys), the back of the alternator (wiring), the wiring harness from the alternator to the firewall, the regulator on the firewall (even if it's not hooked up), the horn relay (and all the wires attached to it), and the battery and its connections, we'd have a starting point.

- Eric

 

I will try to down-load these Pic's I know it's a mess I was thinking of getting a couple junction boxes and a horn relay junction box and sort this mess out for a start I will make a album I could not get then here go to my albulms Steve

 

In the end, that may be the only way of finally sorting it out.

- Eric

 

I can't get the pic to download to my album either something screwed up Thank's For the help Steve

 

Maybe the pictures you took are too big.

Downsize them to about 800x600 and try again.

- Eric

 

Those volt readings sound about right for rpm with a one wire alt. and what may be underdrive pulleys. Any idea how the replacement pulleys measure compared to the stock pulleys?

 

I think the stock pulley was 7 this one is 4 I tryed donwloading pic I resize them and I still can't Funny thing today I hook the 2 wire cable up to the alt and I couldn't shot motor off something Screwed up Steve

 

Well, that explains it.

7" vs 4" means a circumference of 22" vs 12".

That means that your turning the alternator at half speed. Of course it won't charge. Probably runs hot, too.

Why did you install underdrive pulleys on a street car?

- Eric

 

I agree with MD. Go back to stock pulleys if you have them.
Sounds like you have a standard internal regulator alternator that was converted to a one wire. You cannot plug the two wire harness back into it. The 2 wire harness contains a hot wire that is switched on with the ignition switch and used to allow the stock alternator to sense voltage. On a one wire conversion, the alternator is modified to sense voltage from the larger hot battery wire. If you plug in the harness, the wire will feedback 12 volts through the ignition and keep the engine running! The other wire in the harness goes to a relay in the alt. that goes to ground if the alt quits charging and activates the alt light.
On most aftermarket one wire alternators they warn that there may be a problem charging at idle due to the way they sense voltage and may activate the idiot alt light. There is info on the net about this.
Pretty sure I am correct on this, but someone else can correct me if I am mistaken.(Once I thought I was wrong, but I was only mistaken
Bottom line, start by going back to stock pulleys. I would be concerned about the RPM drop on the water pump.
The other thing in your post I have a question about concerns your engine bore of .060
You say the pistons are .030. This has to be a mistake or missunderstanding.

 

I talked to Mondello he said it's not the pully I bought the kit because I couldn't
find the right pulleys So this kit is make for 67 400 as far as the piston that what was written down,I tryed again on the picture it tells me to contact admin, It said missing Securty Token ? If I fix it I will post some pics Steve

 

I have no personal experiece with them, but the consensus on this board seems to be that Mondello can't be trusted.

If you give us the sizes of all of the pulleys, we might be able to calculate with certainty whether they are your problem, but unless the alternator pulley is tiny, that crank pulley will turn it at half speed. You can't break the laws of physics.

"Expired security token" means you took too long writing your post (like an hour), and the page has gotten too old.
"Missing security token," if I'm not mistaken, would mean that your browser is set not to accept cookies.

Keep trying. We'll help you get this fixed one way or another.

- Eric

 

Did you use all the pulleys in the kit? If you have factory alt pulley and used undersize crank pulley it is a problem.

 

Mondello is telling you the pulleys are correct for the car, and they probably are, but for a racing application. They turn the alt slower (using less HP} and make the alt put out less. And that IS a problem in your case.

 

A cheap way around it would be to up your idle as long as it doesn't cause other problems. March pulleys, a major manufacture of these pulleys, says it is not unusual to have to do this. You still may have trouble with engine temp rising in heavy traffic, long idling conditions.

 

I Know about Mondolles, But the Alt Pulley is 2.5 Crank is 5.5 a/c and water pump is 5.5 I'm still trying the pic Steve I used the whole kit

 

I was able to add some pics on my site of the wireing Steve

 

Wow.

Pretty motor.

Someone spent a lot of time doing a lot of non-original fancy wiring and covering it up with that fancy plastic armor.

Others may have better luck, but I'm afraid that I can't see anything helpful there, other than to note that the connections appear to be clean and solid.

The side view of the alternator, though blurry, does seem to show a normal-sized pulley, which, with a 4" crank pulley, would drive the alternator at about half speed.

- Eric

 

at the beginning you said one wire alternator, external regulator which does not work. correct me if I am wrong on that. I hate one wire alts and never use them, it is not that hard to add two wires so it works correctly all the time. most one wires will not start to charge until they reach a certain rpm. that gets them going but many will stop charging if they idle too long. there are some one wire alts that can be used with the other two wires, not all and you would need to know what you have to know if the other wires can be used. personally I would ditch the one wire and install a good internal regulated alt so that it can idle all day and keep charging.

 

Good Idea