blower control wires melting
March 21st, 2015, 04:57 PM
#1
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blower control wires melting
my wires that plug to the resistor are melting. when I switch the heater control from off to heat I can hear a clicking sound but no fan. I smelled something burning and found the wires to the resistor melting. what is going on? I put a different heater relay in and still nothing. please any ideas? I sure hope its something simple.
thanks:
thanks:
March 21st, 2015, 05:21 PM
#2
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Need more information.
Does it do this if the plug is not plugged into the resistor block?
Does the motor work at any speed?
Does the motor blow fuses?
Are the right fuses installed?
Have you tried wiring the motor directly to the battery?
Have you checked voltage at each point in the circuit?
- Eric
Does it do this if the plug is not plugged into the resistor block?
Does the motor work at any speed?
Does the motor blow fuses?
Are the right fuses installed?
Have you tried wiring the motor directly to the battery?
Have you checked voltage at each point in the circuit?
- Eric
March 21st, 2015, 05:42 PM
#4
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Need more information.
Does it do this if the plug is not plugged into the resistor block?
Does the motor work at any speed?
Does the motor blow fuses?
Are the right fuses installed?
Have you tried wiring the motor directly to the battery?
Have you checked voltage at each point in the circuit?
- Eric
Does it do this if the plug is not plugged into the resistor block?
Does the motor work at any speed?
Does the motor blow fuses?
Are the right fuses installed?
Have you tried wiring the motor directly to the battery?
Have you checked voltage at each point in the circuit?
- Eric
March 21st, 2015, 05:46 PM
#7
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I will check that. I looked at the original wire harness for this car and it was melted already. That's why I put the harness from the parts car I had.
March 21st, 2015, 05:47 PM
#8
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Yes. Unplug and then just go through it.
Unplug High speed relay and see if it's output to the motor shows +12V.
Then see if the signal wire from the Speed switch is hot when in the high position, cold at all other times.
Then see if the wire from the resistor block is hot when in a speed other than High.
Then unplug the resistor block and see if each wire from the lower speeds is hot when the switch is in that speed (and not at other times).
At some point, something won't be right.
You get the picture.
- Eric
Unplug High speed relay and see if it's output to the motor shows +12V.
Then see if the signal wire from the Speed switch is hot when in the high position, cold at all other times.
Then see if the wire from the resistor block is hot when in a speed other than High.
Then unplug the resistor block and see if each wire from the lower speeds is hot when the switch is in that speed (and not at other times).
At some point, something won't be right.
You get the picture.
- Eric
March 21st, 2015, 06:36 PM
#11
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I unplugged the relay and put my test light on the positive side of battery put the pointer test light end on the purple wire spade and all it did was light up my test light what does the pink and black wire that also hooks up to the relay do?
March 21st, 2015, 07:16 PM
#15
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You need to jump from the battery to the purple wire with a wire, not a test light.
You want to try to run the motor, not see whether it has continuity.
The small Black and Orange wire to the High speed relay is the trigger wire that turns the relay on - it is hot when the Speed switch is set to High.
If you pull the plug off of the resistor block, the Black and Yellow wire should be hot on Low,
The Black and Blue wire should be hot on speed #2,
The light Green wire should be hot on speed #3.
At each of these steps neither of the other two wires should be hot.
As I said above, on the High speed, the Black and Orange wire should be hot, but it does NOT go to the resistor, so it is not involved here.
At all other speeds, it should not make a sound when you plug or unplug the Black and Orange wire.
- Eric
March 21st, 2015, 07:48 PM
#16
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That's not what I had in mind.
You need to jump from the battery to the purple wire with a wire, not a test light.
You want to try to run the motor, not see whether it has continuity.
The small Black and Orange wire to the High speed relay is the trigger wire that turns the relay on - it is hot when the Speed switch is set to High.
thank you so much eric. I wasn't trying to get it to light I was just using the test light as a jumper since I had it out already I will try your idea in morning thanks again you are a wealth of information.
What were you looking at to light up?
If you pull the plug off of the resistor block, the Black and Yellow wire should be hot on Low,
The Black and Blue wire should be hot on speed #2,
The light Green wire should be hot on speed #3.
At each of these steps neither of the other two wires should be hot.
As I said above, on the High speed, the Black and Orange wire should be hot, but it does NOT go to the resistor, so it is not involved here.
It should only do this on the High speed.
At all other speeds, it should not make a sound when you plug or unplug the Black and Orange wire.
- Eric
You need to jump from the battery to the purple wire with a wire, not a test light.
You want to try to run the motor, not see whether it has continuity.
The small Black and Orange wire to the High speed relay is the trigger wire that turns the relay on - it is hot when the Speed switch is set to High.
thank you so much eric. I wasn't trying to get it to light I was just using the test light as a jumper since I had it out already I will try your idea in morning thanks again you are a wealth of information.
What were you looking at to light up?
If you pull the plug off of the resistor block, the Black and Yellow wire should be hot on Low,
The Black and Blue wire should be hot on speed #2,
The light Green wire should be hot on speed #3.
At each of these steps neither of the other two wires should be hot.
As I said above, on the High speed, the Black and Orange wire should be hot, but it does NOT go to the resistor, so it is not involved here.
It should only do this on the High speed.
At all other speeds, it should not make a sound when you plug or unplug the Black and Orange wire.
- Eric
March 21st, 2015, 07:51 PM
#17
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Thanks Eric I will try that first thing tomorrow. So I'm assuming if I can't get the blower motor to jump then there is a problem with the motor itself. Thanks again I'll let you know
March 21st, 2015, 07:56 PM
#18
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Exactly. Check the simplest things first. If the motor is tight, and drawing too much current, then you know what direction to go in. If the motor is fine, then you need to focus on plugs, switches, fuses, and wires.
- Eric
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 06:12 AM
#20
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Blower doesn't blow, eh?
Time to do what you have to do to get that blower out and check it.
The most common problem is worn out, dirty, tight bearings, but something physically interfering with the hamster wheel is not out of the question.
- Eric
Time to do what you have to do to get that blower out and check it.
The most common problem is worn out, dirty, tight bearings, but something physically interfering with the hamster wheel is not out of the question.
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 06:38 AM
#21
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dam it anyways!! Lol!! Unbelievable I know I bench tested that thing before I put it in because I knew how much of a pain in the *** it will be after.
March 22nd, 2015, 06:41 AM
#22
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Could possibly be a pinched purple wire somewhere between the connector and the motor, but I can't think of where.
I generally test the motor again as soon as I have it screwed in, just to be doubly sure.
- Eric
I generally test the motor again as soon as I have it screwed in, just to be doubly sure.
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 09:12 AM
#23
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well the fan is hitting the inside of housing. it seems as though its hitting the fiberglass ac housing. I don't know what to do about that. I cant grind the housing. I thought maybe it was hitting the circular metal back plate so I ground that down a little. i originally thought because i put the fan wheel on wrong. i put the metal clip on first then the wheel. so i thought maybe it was tightened down enough but that's not it.
March 22nd, 2015, 09:17 AM
#25
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So you had the wheel off? Did you replace the motor?
Some databases have the wrong motor listed - the one they give you looks right, but the shaft length or the shaft projection is wrong.
If you changed it, and you have the original, then compare the two closely.
- Eric
Some databases have the wrong motor listed - the one they give you looks right, but the shaft length or the shaft projection is wrong.
If you changed it, and you have the original, then compare the two closely.
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 09:19 AM
#26
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So you had the wheel off? Did you replace the motor?
Some databases have the wrong motor listed - the one they give you looks right, but the shaft length or the shaft projection is wrong.
If you changed it, and you have the original, then compare the two closely.
- Eric
Some databases have the wrong motor listed - the one they give you looks right, but the shaft length or the shaft projection is wrong.
If you changed it, and you have the original, then compare the two closely.
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 09:22 AM
#27
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Something changed. You'll have to go through it to determine exactly where it's rubbing, and what changed to make it rub there.
These things can be annoying, but the answer will be simple.
Also, check your fuses, as the amount of current flow that you describe should have blown a fuse - if it didn't, either their values are too high, or someone replaced something with a non-fuse (like a length of copper wire).
- Eric
These things can be annoying, but the answer will be simple.
Also, check your fuses, as the amount of current flow that you describe should have blown a fuse - if it didn't, either their values are too high, or someone replaced something with a non-fuse (like a length of copper wire).
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 12:01 PM
#28
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Something changed. You'll have to go through it to determine exactly where it's rubbing, and what changed to make it rub there.
These things can be annoying, but the answer will be simple.
Also, check your fuses, as the amount of current flow that you describe should have blown a fuse - if it didn't, either their values are too high, or someone replaced something with a non-fuse (like a length of copper wire).
- Eric
These things can be annoying, but the answer will be simple.
Also, check your fuses, as the amount of current flow that you describe should have blown a fuse - if it didn't, either their values are too high, or someone replaced something with a non-fuse (like a length of copper wire).
- Eric
March 22nd, 2015, 12:09 PM
#29
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Does it work on the lower speeds?
Does the relay click when you switch to High?
If no relay click, then the relay ground may not be good (the current to pull in the relay comes in through the smaller Black/Orange wire and out through ground).
If the relay clicks, but then shows no power at the output terminal to the fan, does the relay have input power from the battery through the (very dirty) heavy Black/Orange wire? That wire has an inline 30A fuse in it. If that fuse is dirty or blown, then High speed ist Kaput.
- Eric
Does the relay click when you switch to High?
If no relay click, then the relay ground may not be good (the current to pull in the relay comes in through the smaller Black/Orange wire and out through ground).
If the relay clicks, but then shows no power at the output terminal to the fan, does the relay have input power from the battery through the (very dirty) heavy Black/Orange wire? That wire has an inline 30A fuse in it. If that fuse is dirty or blown, then High speed ist Kaput.
- Eric
March 23rd, 2015, 06:21 PM
#30
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Vernon NY
Posts: 162
Does it work on the lower speeds?
Does the relay click when you switch to High?
If no relay click, then the relay ground may not be good (the current to pull in the relay comes in through the smaller Black/Orange wire and out through ground).
If the relay clicks, but then shows no power at the output terminal to the fan, does the relay have input power from the battery through the (very dirty) heavy Black/Orange wire? That wire has an inline 30A fuse in it. If that fuse is dirty or blown, then High speed ist Kaput.
- Eric
Does the relay click when you switch to High?
If no relay click, then the relay ground may not be good (the current to pull in the relay comes in through the smaller Black/Orange wire and out through ground).
If the relay clicks, but then shows no power at the output terminal to the fan, does the relay have input power from the battery through the (very dirty) heavy Black/Orange wire? That wire has an inline 30A fuse in it. If that fuse is dirty or blown, then High speed ist Kaput.
- Eric
March 24th, 2015, 04:36 PM
#32
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March 24th, 2015, 04:53 PM
#34
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I have another question. I have a map light. when I turn the map light on it activates all of my courtesy lights is it supposed to do that?
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