Okay, I have a 70 Cutlass S with "aftermarket" air conditioning. So my car started off as a non A/C, and this aftermarket setup is a little crude on how they mounted it to the front of the motor, but since this was circa 1970 technology, I guess you had to start somewhere.

Why I bring up the aftermarket A/C is because my alternator is mounted underneath the compressor which is held on to the front of the motor by a huge steel plate. (Note: The compressor is perpendicular to the motor and mounted to the front, not like factory A/C which is parallel and mounted to the side.)

Consequently getting at the alternator (wiring especially) requires me to remove a support bracket (for the steel plate). And since the 10DN alternator has the wiring in the 3 o'clock position it is a pain to access.

So, since I have only seen this on my car and I've only read about one other person on this forum (I'm sure there has to be a few more) having the same type of aftermarket A/C, I have no other frame of reference.

So, I am looking to put the alternator on the drivers side. I already have the 3 pulley off the crank and the 2 pulley off the water pump. The belt that would drive the alternator is mounted to the inside (belt closest to motor). With all this shouldn't I be able to mount the alternator to the drivers side with the appropriate brackets??

Then the practical voice in my head says, "Well, if it was possible, why didn't they do that in the first place?"

If this is clear as mud, I completely understand. I am looking at this mess and I still don't get it.

That aside, if this is possible it would allow me to do a few things.

1. Access the alternator easier.
2. Install a common 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock alternator with upgraded/increased amps
3. Distribute the weight in the front of the car a little more evenly.

If possible, where can I get the brackets and where do they mount exactly? The power steering pump and one of the steel brackets that hold the steel plate on (attaches to intake manifold) are the only things that I am concerned about and how it relates to the top and bottom alternator brackets.

d1

(Sorry for not having better pictures, I had already taken the alternator off before this post and these were the only 2 pictures I had of the motor)

 

Yes I agree, you should be able to put the factory brackets on the drivers side and be off and running. There should be several members with extra brackets, create a parts wanted thread in that section. John

 

If you check the parts manual at WildAboutCars / Olds Performance Club, you can see exactly what parts should go on your car, and what other years and models they interchange with, which can help you search for the right stuff. It's a bit annoying because the brackets are listed with their respective systems (PS pump under Steering, A/C compressor under A/C, etc.).

Be sure the new pulleys will play well with the oddball A/C pulley on that Ferd A/C pump.

- Eric

 

Thanks John, will do.


Thanks Eric, I am a member of the WAC/OPC and am still muddling through the website. Not as user friendly as I am used to. But it is a wealth of information once you find the right spot.

You say that the A/C pump is a Ford style? The company that manufactured the A/C system is called A.R.A., I think they were out of Dallas, TX back in the day.

 

Well, if I recall correctly, it's called a "York" type compressor (like "Saginaw" for GM steering gear, or "Frigidaire" for GM A/C components), and was the type used on those cars from Dearborn, as well as a number of others, from the late '50's (maybe earlier?) through the '70's at least.

Parts should be easy to find if you want to keep it.

Fun fact: Those pointy fittings where the coolant lines attach to the compressor are valves with pressed steel caps screwed over them. If you unscrew the caps, you can close the valves and remove or service the compressor without evacuating the system.

- Eric

 

And I beieve you can 'clock' the alternator by undoing and pulling out the long bolts, turning the end appropraitely, and re-installing the bolts!
Just don't pull it apart!

 

Cool, thanks for the information.


I will check to see if this will work.

 

Yes. You can adjust the relationship between the mounting fittings (on the front half) and the electrical connections (on the back half) by removing the bolts and rotating the halves relative to one another. Different applications require different settings (and would have different part numbers from GM).

- Eric

 

Does anyone have any pictures of how the alternator brace and bracket mount to the drivers side of motor. I did not have that set up originally and I have no idea what holes to use to mount the brace/bracket to. I looked up the picture in the manual but it is not very clear other than showing the relationship of the bracket and brace.

Thanks,
d1

 

d1, there's about four different sets that you might have picked up. The 1968 into mid-70's are stamped steel, 1968-72 style and 1973 to ? style. Then sometime in the mid-1970's they include an aluminum alloy arm and I've seen two different ones of those. I'm guessing you've got the stamped steel ones so here's a few pictures of those setups. The first is on a 1971 350 engine and has a large "C" shaped and "H" shaped pieces. The second setup is on a 1973 455 and may be missing a tube shaped support... I'm not sure my memory is correct on that. Let me know if neither of these look like what you've got. John

P1010068.jpg

P1010067.jpg

P1010069.jpg



P1010072.jpg

P1010074.jpg

P1010075.jpg

P1010073.jpg

 

Thanks John! Pics 1, 2, & 3 is what I have, and thanks for posting them, they will help immensely.

d1