'75 Delta 88 Dash Lights
April 13th, 2013, 09:23 AM
#1
'75 Delta 88 Dash Lights
Hey what's up guys, I recently purchased a 1975 Delta 88 from a local guy. The previous owners had a car alarm installed and multiple stereos so the wiring under the dash was a nightmare. I cleared all that out and thankfully most of the issues I was having were the actual parts themselves, the clock needs repaired, radio didn't work, dimmer switch was bad, some blown fuses and stuff. However I can't get instrument panel lights to come on when I turn on the headlights like they're supposed to. Can someone point me in the right direction? I was under there looking for hanging wires and can't seem to find any. Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
April 13th, 2013, 11:27 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 14,206
Could be a broken headlight switch. Those can be gotten for $10 or $15 at the local auto parts store. There is also a 4-amp fuse in the fuse block that protects the dash lamps. When you checked the fuses, you checked that one, too? If it's neither of these, it's time to start tracing wiring.
April 13th, 2013, 11:30 AM
#3
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,302
First- dash light dimmer is in the headlight switch so make sure the headlight switch **** is rotated all the way to left. If that doesn't turn them on, look in fuse block for a small 4 amp fuse labeled "INST LPS" and see if it's blown. If it is and replacing it makes the lights work, you're golden. If not and it blows again...
The wires you want underdash are all gray. They feed: the speedometer cluster, the floodlamps above the left and right control panels, the radio lamp, clock lamp and ash tray lamp.
If someone's been buggering around under there with aftermarket stereo, I'd start looking at the clock and ash tray lamps esp if someone tapped into the clock 12v constant for stereo power. Then I'd move to the floodlamp above the radio. If car has the map lamp option there is a constant 12v going to that floodlamp and again, an attractive power source to people installing aftermarket stuff. If there is a toggle switch on the RH floodlamp, car has the map lamp. All cars had the 12v wiring, just the map lamp option plugged into it differently than with floodlamp only.
There's a remote possibility the headlight switch has problems with the instrument lamp feed. It's a dark green wire in the h/l switch plug and it feeds the 4A INST LPS fuse.
Wouldn't hurt you to have a 1975 electrical diagram. www.wildaboutcars.com should have the 1975. You need the one for 88 & 98- should be listed as Fig 12-13- Wiring Schematic- 88 & 98.
The wires you want underdash are all gray. They feed: the speedometer cluster, the floodlamps above the left and right control panels, the radio lamp, clock lamp and ash tray lamp.
If someone's been buggering around under there with aftermarket stereo, I'd start looking at the clock and ash tray lamps esp if someone tapped into the clock 12v constant for stereo power. Then I'd move to the floodlamp above the radio. If car has the map lamp option there is a constant 12v going to that floodlamp and again, an attractive power source to people installing aftermarket stuff. If there is a toggle switch on the RH floodlamp, car has the map lamp. All cars had the 12v wiring, just the map lamp option plugged into it differently than with floodlamp only.
There's a remote possibility the headlight switch has problems with the instrument lamp feed. It's a dark green wire in the h/l switch plug and it feeds the 4A INST LPS fuse.
Wouldn't hurt you to have a 1975 electrical diagram. www.wildaboutcars.com should have the 1975. You need the one for 88 & 98- should be listed as Fig 12-13- Wiring Schematic- 88 & 98.
April 15th, 2013, 05:06 AM
#4
First- dash light dimmer is in the headlight switch so make sure the headlight switch **** is rotated all the way to left. If that doesn't turn them on, look in fuse block for a small 4 amp fuse labeled "INST LPS" and see if it's blown. If it is and replacing it makes the lights work, you're golden. If not and it blows again...
The wires you want underdash are all gray. They feed: the speedometer cluster, the floodlamps above the left and right control panels, the radio lamp, clock lamp and ash tray lamp.
If someone's been buggering around under there with aftermarket stereo, I'd start looking at the clock and ash tray lamps esp if someone tapped into the clock 12v constant for stereo power. Then I'd move to the floodlamp above the radio. If car has the map lamp option there is a constant 12v going to that floodlamp and again, an attractive power source to people installing aftermarket stuff. If there is a toggle switch on the RH floodlamp, car has the map lamp. All cars had the 12v wiring, just the map lamp option plugged into it differently than with floodlamp only.
There's a remote possibility the headlight switch has problems with the instrument lamp feed. It's a dark green wire in the h/l switch plug and it feeds the 4A INST LPS fuse.
Wouldn't hurt you to have a 1975 electrical diagram. www.wildaboutcars.com should have the 1975. You need the one for 88 & 98- should be listed as Fig 12-13- Wiring Schematic- 88 & 98.
The wires you want underdash are all gray. They feed: the speedometer cluster, the floodlamps above the left and right control panels, the radio lamp, clock lamp and ash tray lamp.
If someone's been buggering around under there with aftermarket stereo, I'd start looking at the clock and ash tray lamps esp if someone tapped into the clock 12v constant for stereo power. Then I'd move to the floodlamp above the radio. If car has the map lamp option there is a constant 12v going to that floodlamp and again, an attractive power source to people installing aftermarket stuff. If there is a toggle switch on the RH floodlamp, car has the map lamp. All cars had the 12v wiring, just the map lamp option plugged into it differently than with floodlamp only.
There's a remote possibility the headlight switch has problems with the instrument lamp feed. It's a dark green wire in the h/l switch plug and it feeds the 4A INST LPS fuse.
Wouldn't hurt you to have a 1975 electrical diagram. www.wildaboutcars.com should have the 1975. You need the one for 88 & 98- should be listed as Fig 12-13- Wiring Schematic- 88 & 98.
I do have a 1975 Oldsmobile repair manual, just not very good with wiring and reading those diagrams. I'll keep you guys updated on my progress. When I first got the car they came on, but they came on as soon as I turned the switch to the "on" position whether the headlights were on or not. So once I removed nearly all the stereo/alarm wires they no longer come on at all. I will try turned the **** all the way to the left, I was thinking if I turned it all the way to the right would make them come on...
April 15th, 2013, 09:05 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,471
Hi and congrats on your 88 purchase. It's very possible that it's just the fuse (should be all the way at the top of the panel). Maybe while you were cleaning up the mess something got shorted and blew the fuse. Or what I've also seen happen is the tab on the circuit board can break off. When pulling those long connectors off the circuit board, you have to be very gentle because they can snap fairly easily.
April 15th, 2013, 09:31 AM
#6
Hi and congrats on your 88 purchase. It's very possible that it's just the fuse (should be all the way at the top of the panel). Maybe while you were cleaning up the mess something got shorted and blew the fuse. Or what I've also seen happen is the tab on the circuit board can break off. When pulling those long connectors off the circuit board, you have to be very gentle because they can snap fairly easily.
April 15th, 2013, 10:28 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,471
yeah, those fuses can be a little tough to get out in one piece. There is a plastic tool that comes with some sets of fuses that hooks around the tube. Otherwise you can use a small screwdriver and pry it out from either end (carefully of course). If you hold a good fuse up to the terminals, do the lights turn on?
April 21st, 2013, 06:37 PM
#10
Problem solved! It was a bad fuse lol the problem was me, I was checking the fuses with a test light only on one end. Once I tapped both ends and seen it was only lighting up on one end I removed it and touch the one end with a 12v power source and BOOM! We have dash lights, thanks for your help everyone
April 22nd, 2013, 08:56 AM
#12
Well it's not your typical factory restoration project but....
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