72 cutlass won’t start...
#1
72 cutlass won’t start...
Hey everyone what’s up. I drove my 72 cutlass from Dallas to okc Sunday and i was pretty nervous because I didn’t think it would make it. But the next day I went to Sonics and my car wouldn’t start so I thought it was the starter since my lights and radio worked fine luckily there was a shop next door they said it was the battery so I got a new battery and when I got back to campus it wouldn’t cut back on again. So then I thought well maybe it’s the alternator. So I changed the alternator. Guess what? Still won’t start. I’m convinced it’s a wiring issue because we got my 2nd pair of headlights installed and the brake lights and the turn signals and the license plate light. If you guys can give any advice that would be great and I am not familiar with electrical terms and stuff so I’m a noob at electrical stuff.
#3
Battery cable connections are good. I used to have to do that wiggle the shift to start some time ago but I fixed that. It cranks but then you just hear the ticking from the starter solenoid against the flywheel.
#5
That means the solenoid is not getting sufficient current. This could be due to a low charge on the battery or something else that prevents full voltage / current getting to the solenoid. Loose cable connections, corrosion on the cable connections, poor ground from starter back to the battery, etc. Many things to check, but it seems to be isolated to the power / ground to the battery.
#6
That means the solenoid is not getting sufficient current. This could be due to a low charge on the battery or something else that prevents full voltage / current getting to the solenoid. Loose cable connections, corrosion on the cable connections, poor ground from starter back to the battery, etc. Many things to check, but it seems to be isolated to the power / ground to the battery.
#9
I'm suspecting the same as Fun71. Either your solenoid is malfunctioning or the connections between the battery and or the starter are poor. FYI, battery cables can look good but be corroded/broken inside.
If you don't find anything obvious you might soon be replacing the starter and or solenoid.
Also, you might have a misunderstanding of how the alternator works, no biggie. Just make sure you have all the connections correctly applied.
It might be helpful if you could post a pic of the back side of the alternator or maybe even a short video of how the car responds when you attempt to start it. Heck, maybe a pic or two of the previous and current wiring repairs you've done.
If you don't find anything obvious you might soon be replacing the starter and or solenoid.
Also, you might have a misunderstanding of how the alternator works, no biggie. Just make sure you have all the connections correctly applied.
It might be helpful if you could post a pic of the back side of the alternator or maybe even a short video of how the car responds when you attempt to start it. Heck, maybe a pic or two of the previous and current wiring repairs you've done.
#11
I'm suspecting the same as Fun71. Either your solenoid is malfunctioning or the connections between the battery and or the starter are poor. FYI, battery cables can look good but be corroded/broken inside.
If you don't find anything obvious you might soon be replacing the starter and or solenoid.
Also, you might have a misunderstanding of how the alternator works, no biggie. Just make sure you have all the connections correctly applied.
It might be helpful if you could post a pic of the back side of the alternator or maybe even a short video of how the car responds when you attempt to start it. Heck, maybe a pic or two of the previous and current wiring repairs you've done.
If you don't find anything obvious you might soon be replacing the starter and or solenoid.
Also, you might have a misunderstanding of how the alternator works, no biggie. Just make sure you have all the connections correctly applied.
It might be helpful if you could post a pic of the back side of the alternator or maybe even a short video of how the car responds when you attempt to start it. Heck, maybe a pic or two of the previous and current wiring repairs you've done.
#13
#15
#16
Ya know, you can have the local auto parts store check your charging system for free.
Last edited by Fun71; October 23rd, 2019 at 05:06 PM.
#17
OK, so we have a direction. Charge the battery, start the engine and while its running test the voltage at the battery. Your testing needs to be done with a digital volt meter and post the full voltage including the 2 digits past the decimal point.
#18
I don’t have any of those tools I just towed it to a shop. Hopefully it doesn’t cost that much.
#19
So your post was about the car not starting, which we have isolated to an issue with the battery. Now you are saying your battery won't stay charged. Why didn't you just start the post about your charging issue?
Ya know, you can have the local auto parts store check your charging system for free.
Ya know, you can have the local auto parts store check your charging system for free.
#21
Similar issue with my wagon now. New cables and a 3 year old battery not holding a charge even after on a charger. My bet is you need a new battery. The shop can also test your alternator to make sure it's charging. Good luck. Are you in college here in Okla? I'm in the OKC area if I can help let me know.
Matt
Matt
#22
#23
It will cost more than a simple digital multimeter.
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digit...qid=1571889114
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digit...qid=1571889114
Similar issue with my wagon now. New cables and a 3 year old battery not holding a charge even after on a charger. My bet is you need a new battery. The shop can also test your alternator to make sure it's charging. Good luck. Are you in college here in Okla? I'm in the OKC area if I can help let me know.
Matt
Matt
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