Looking to see if anyone has experience buying a new one of these? I've read that some are light duty / don't last? If you bought one that has worked out, where was it from?

Is there another component(s) to this that would cause it to fail? I'm going on the previous assumption that the previous owner found the switch to be bad, as he's got the top wired into a toggle switch hanging down from the bottom of the dash.

 

A good original one is better than the new Chinese one.

 

If you’re on the hunt for a good used original, obviously start with ‘67 Cutlass/442, but the internal guts of the switch like brass electrical contacts, springs and whatnot may be common to all the ‘67 A bodies.

It may be worth a roll of the dice on a ‘67 Chevelle, Skylark, Tempest/GTO switch, just to see if you can replace the guts of the switch and keep the trim chrome which is probably olds specific. I think of that as “going horizontal” across GM divisions. Have a look at the ‘67 88/98 convertible top switches too, they just _might_ interchange, or parts might

The other move is what I call “going vertical” across years of Oldsmobile Cutlass/442 switches. Lots of times they changed the trim each year, but the actual (usually staged in) guts of the switches changed far less frequently. You just _might_ find the internal parts are common from maybe 64 - 70 or later.

I’m no expert on the A bodies, just wanted to pass along a few tricks to try when you have to get creative.

Cheers
Chris

 

While we’re at it, be aware that these hydraulic pump switches are pretty high amperage - on the order of 30 amps.

If you need to go aftermarket, check out the pump electrical draw so you don’t undersize the switch and create heat that can melt old wires. Then get a switch that can handle that kind of amperage. Another safety item would be a fuse in the appropriate amperage (guessing 30 amps) to blow in case things get too hot.

Complete agreement on something like original GM vs. generally lower quality offshore replacements. Offshore is frequently a disappointment.

In my ‘66 98 convertible the Orange/Black wire runs from the firewall 40 amp circuit breaker to the switch, then there are up & down positive wires to the pump. The negative side of the circuit is provided by a ground from the pump motor to the body of the car. Overall pretty simple, but always best to be safe.

Cheers
Chris

 

Thanks for all that info cfair!

 

The switch is seeing the full load of the motor. Using it the least amount of time in a burst is good. High mechanical resistance causes higher current draw. Lube the joints of the linkages properly. One can put a clamp ammeter on the pump wires to see draw.

A straightforward solution is putting a relay in so that the switch does not see so much amperage.