Hi, I am hoping this is an easy fix. My parking brake light stays on when the car is started and is running. I noticed that there is a little play in the parking brake - when I lift it up, the light goes out. When I let go, the light comes back on.

Is there any adjustment or a spring I need to purchase? Any thoughts?

 

You need to tighten the cable under the car. First, be sure the rear brakes are properly adjusted. Second, be sure the three hooks holding the cable (one large one at the crossmember and two small ones to the floor pan) are in place. Then adjust the threaded rod at the end of the front cable where it connects to the intermediate cable near the trans crossmember.

 

Joe, I haven't driven mine enough to know, but was the dual function of the brake light (inbalanced pressure front to back and parking brake deployed) in 67, or were you supposed to figure out your brakes had trouble the old fashioned way.

 

Thank you Joe and for the diagram!

Dumb question, but at that large - threaded nuts by the trans, do I turn the nuts clockwise or counter clockwise? I believe I need tension on the cable going from the trans to the pedal.

Clockwise seemed to loosen it. If I go to much counter clockwise the nuts will come off.

Perhaps I need to hold the nuts in place and turn the shaft that holds the cable?

 

The "shaft" is just crimped onto the section of cable that runs to the pedal. You need to first loosen the outer locking nut (hold both nuts and turn the outer one). Then hold the threaded adjuster at the other (forward) end, There is a hex where the solid adjuster is crimped onto the cable. It's a 1/4" hex. Hold this while turning the inner nut to adjust tension. Tighten the nut (clockwise) to tighten the cable. When you have the cable adjusted, run the lock nut down to the inner nut, then hold one and turn the other to lock them back together.

 

1967 was the first year that had federally-mandated dual circuit brakes, and thus the first year to use the distribution block with the differential pressure switch. Look at the dist block under the hood and you'll see a wire connected to it. This is why the brake indicator light was standard equipment starting with the 1967 model year. Of course, when you loose pressure, the BRAKE light comes on about the time your foot hits the floor and you get through saying "Oh S--T!"

 

I lost a rear wheel cylinder and emptied the rear reservoir, light never came on. Not that its a bad thing because I didn't have to reset the plunger.

 

You two are consistent with my experience. My 72 lost all, and I mean all, brakes at a car show. I think I pushed through the master's seals during a panic stop the previous week. Brake fluid went out the back of the master instead of the tubes. Light never came on since 0 and 0 is no differential.

 

Thank you Joe - problem solved! And sooo nice to not have that red light staring at you when driving.

Of course, with that fix, I found out that my transmission is leaking some fluid. Don't know if because I don't drive it much that the gasket is dry. Is there anything I can put in there to help stop the leak, if it is small, or do I need to splurge on a new transmission gasket replacement?

 

I'd drive it a bit and see if the leak stops. These cars tend to leak when sitting for long periods of time.