Hey everyone-So, I've inherited a 1964 Oldsmobile Jetstar 1 from my father who left it in a covered carport for about 30 years after he inherited it from my Grandfather. i have minimal experience with cars, but I did rebuild a 79 Toyota Corolla back in the day. So, when I pushed my jetstar off of the flatbed and into my driveway, I had no idea what I'd face. What I've since found is that the engine was seized. I was able to get this to the point where I can hand crank it fairly efficiently with just a little rub. Secondly, I pulled the oil and put Mystery oil and regular oil in the engine and let it sit. From the beginning, I pulled the spark plugs, poured acetone and ATF into the cylinders and have periodically tried to turn the engine over to no avail. I though it was that the engine was seized, but when i turned the key to the "ON" position, the headlights would work, the flashers would work the "GEN" light would come one and a fan in the engine compartment would start running. As soon as I turned the key to the START position, all of the power was gone. No starter clicking, no lights, no anything, and the fan just whirred to a stop. I'm trying to trouble shoot this and was hoping someone might have some suggestions as to where I should start. I've got a continuity tester now. I see where the small wire that goes down to the solenoid has been spliced before it enters right behind the fuse panel. All of the fuses look good, but I'm going to change all of these for good measure. What else should I be looking for? Theres a brand new battery and a starter now too. Thanks in advance!

 

The starter needs a full 12v to the big lug and the solenoid gets 12v when the key is turned to the start position on the purple wire. You can go back to the shifter and make sure its in park. There is a neutral safety switch that only allows the starter to engage when the shifter is in either park or neutral. See if there is voltage there.

 

Thanks. I appreciate this. I was thinking it may be an issue with the fact the brakes were bad and when I depressed them before the start, it didn't register for some reason. It is in Park. How would I test that? Is the wiring running directly into the shifter compartment?

 

There is a switch at the bottom of the steering column. Jumper the 2 purple wires and then turn the key. Make sure its in park.

 

Jetstar one:
console, floor shifter

I presume that means a neutral safety switch is in the console at the shfter.

Wherever the NSS is, it will have the two fat violet wires which you can test for voltage or jumper to bypass the switch in order to help troubleshoot this.

in '64 the brakes system has nothing to do with the starting system.

I have seen a bad battery or bad connections/ cables cause the voltage to drop to about zero when the starter tries to engage. Time for a voltmeter/ test light and a helper to actuate the START circuit while you ck for volts at the 5 or 6 places along the starter wiring circuit.

 

Thanks gents. I'll take a run at this.

 

Ok. So the NSS was actually in the console. I found the two large purple wires and pulled them off and taped them together. Still nothing. I tested the wire going from the solenoid to the fuse box and was able to verify current was getting to the fuse and I replaced the fuse for good measure. Still nothing when I turned the key to start. Could this be a bad ignition?

 

Sorry thought the switch was at the column. The purple wire comes from the ignition switch. The ignition switch gets its power through the red wire.

 

No, I appreciate the response so no worries. I've got a 34 series so everything's a little different. If the car has lights and some of the interior accessory power when the key is in the on position, and when I turn it to the start position, everything dies, is this indicating a bad switch possibly? Could I pull the red wire and the purple wire and try to jump these two? Would that in effect hot wire the car?

 

Do you have a volt meter or test light? Look for where your voltage disappears. You can momentarily jumper the 2 wires also and see if the starter engages, make sure your in park.

 

Sounds crazy..but my 64 dynamic would do that many times. One day when it happen I had the hood open and a friend shook the battery cables and bang the starter turned. Two days later same thing. Radio would be on and I would turn key and everything went dead.
So I replaced battery cables and sanded battery terminals...made connections very tight.
Never had problem again.
My Honda had done the same thing and my repairs were the same and now never an issue.
May be grabbing at straw....but what the hell

 

Well, the battery cables are a little loose because I've been pulling them on and off so frequently. The battery's new, but the cables are definitely old as the car. I'll definitely give it a whirl. Thanks.

 

And thanks for the suggestion Eric. Will keep grinding.

 

Assuming all the basics are covered - fully charged battery, all connections clean and tight, all wires properly connected - your starter solenoid or motor could be internally shorted or mechanically locked up. The result when you turn the key you have a massive amp overdraw that sucks all the power out of the system. If its been sitting as long as you say I'd pull the starter and get it checked / rebuilt.

 

With a voltemeter, an assistant, and just a teensy bit of careful application of the meter, you can find out where the volts is and where it isn't, under load, and therefore which part[s] need[s] to be fixed/ replaced. I'll vote for cables or the connections therefrom. Big Fat Red to starter and/or return ground cable from engine to battery.

Of course it could be an incapable battery too. Voltmeter!

If basic troubleshooting is not well understood, now is the time to learn.

 

O.K., so this morning I went and I replaced the battery connectors with brand spanking new shiny ones and clipped off some corrosion that was on the old cables. Still nothing. Then my neighbor, who I just found out is a master of automotive electronics came over and helped me go through the whole thing. Finally we targeted the ignition switch and pulled it out. Around the main power wire coming in was some melted plastic. When we pulled the harness, it was filthy around the contacts. I cleaned them up nicely and voila! Houston, we have starter turn-over. Now on to the points and the seized water pump, etc. etc. Thanks for all the great feedback guys.

 

Don R., I just replaced the starter too.

 

Glad you got it.

 

Not sure if I should open a new thread or keep this one going with all my little questions. Please advise. i was wondering where the water jacket plugs are located and if I should try to remove those to really drain the coolant and water out of the engine block?

 

There should be a petcock on either side of the block just above the oil pan. Open them to drain the block. If nothing comes out ,remove them and poke around with a wire. Sometimes there will be so much crud and rust there that the water will not drain.

 

Nice to read you have lift off.

 

Thanks! "Houston, we at least have ignition." And thanks for the info on the petcocks. From the looks of the water pump, much funk awaits.

 

If the terminal at the ign switch was loose / crusty enough to heat and melt the plastic, it would be a good idea to put a new terminal on the affected wires or at least crimp the existing ones a little tighter.

I have been able to clean crusty terminals to bright brass, in place on the vehicle, using the old cup o' hot vinegar and table salt. Rinse with baking soda mix afterward, then water, then air dry / terminal cleaner or similar. Takes ~10 seconds of vinegar/ salt. Very effective.

 

I've seen very few 1964 big car ignition switch connectors that weren't at least a little melted, so nothing unusual there. Clean as best you can and hope for a good connection after the repair. The 64 FSC ignition switch is a one-year-only piece too so start hunting for a good spare, preferably an NOS Delco-Remy or a good name old stock aftermarket. I would personally stay away from anything made after 1985 or so.

Other than the 57 style roof and the bucket/console interior, 3457 is no different than the Dynamic 88 the J1 is based on. Even Starfires and Ninety Eights are basically the same car with some difference in the wiring for all the extra electric stuff those carlines usually had. Jetstar 88s on the other hand are a much different animal in both driveline and suspension, and you need to be very aware of that when sourcing parts for your J1.

Nice looking J1 BTW.