Although all is working at least via bench test, the circuit board on the back of the cluster on my 59 is in pretty bad shape. We've made a few splices to the copper circuit paths using small pieces of wire to bridge the gap. The problem seems to be that the copper delaminates from the board. I know modern boards are coated with something to keep them from corroding, etc. I'm wondering if spraying the board (after appropriately masking it) would help keep the copper adhered to the board. Anybody ever try this and what would you use? Also, has anyone ever found an outfit that reproduces these boards?

 

Could you post a picture of the board in question, as well as some rough dimensions?
I design PCBs as a living and I have some connections here for fab shops. I am curious to see what they might cost to have some made up.

 

I have seen NOS pieces on that auction site, but not all '59 is the same. The one with the Safety Sentinel option is different than a regular one without this option.

 

Thanks for the replies. This is one I found in a junkyard and it's got some broken copper as you can see. It is roughly 17 by 3.5 inches at it's max dimensions. 59 you are correct in that there are two versions. About 2.75 inches in from the right side near the top is a place for a light that has not been cut out. This would be for the safety sentinel indicator I think. You can see some places below the nonexistent light that may be for connecting the buzzer (I've never seen the board for the safety sentinel version). I'm of the opinion that the safety sentinel version might work with a non-sentinel speedo by just plugging the hole but i don't know how to verify this. I could send you the board if it would help Rob. I'm sure many of us would be interested in rough costs. Thanks guys.

 

Wanted to bump this. Anyone know if coating the board would keep the copper lines from de laminating and what I would use? Thanks.

 

Glad you bumped this, as I had forgotten where it was!
I put in a quote request from one of our PCB fab shops on Friday - i will have a price for you early next week. More than one will be made so hopefully someone else may want one. Not sure yet what the minimum order is yet...
I would use epoxy on the traces that are not bare copper. The bare copper sections could be epoxied down, taking care to keep it off the bare copper.

 

Thanks Rob. Looking forward to the quote.

Not sure I understood what you meant here. Can you expand on how to do this? Does epoxy corrode the copper? Thanks!

 

No, epoxy glue will not corrode the copper. Many circuit boards designed for outdoor use are actually potted in epoxy to make them waterproof.
At work when we modify boards, we use epoxy to hold parts and insulate bare copper. It does not conduct or corrode.
Make sure it is regular two part epoxy, NOT silicone or anything else.

If you have copper sections that are hanging off the board, just glue 'em back down with epoxy. Then smear a little on the top to help keep them down.
If you do this at the ends where the light bulbs make contact, make sure the glue stays off the copper so that the bulbs make contact. Epoxy is an excellent insulator.

 

Got it- thanks Rob!

 

I have not got the quote back yet, but it will be costly.
This is made from Polyamide, thich is 4x the cost of typical FR4 that is used in our consumer electronics boards.
It withstands high heat longer and better - this is what is used in tube based electronics.
Constant heat under a car dash will damage FR4 in short order.
Hopefully I will have a price tomorrow. There will be a 3 unit minimum (one panel's worth).

 

Okay, I got the quote back yesterday and yes they are expensive.
$560 for three of them!

So here is the next question - does anyone else need one?
They would be $200 for each board shipped to your door. This is strictly my cost. Layout and design I would do here at home free of charge.
Now the more we make, the more the price will decrease. Three is their minimum lot charge and the more we make the more everyone else will save. They would need to be ordered in multiples of 3 though.

I could also make them with traces included for any extra options.

So if ANYONE might need or want a board, please let me know by PM and also in this thread.

John, sorry they are so high. PCBs are costly to make. This is a very low-cost shop and I have been working with the CEO of for over 6 years. Very nice and honest guy.
The material is most of the expense.

 

Hi Rob. First of all, thanks for the work you've put into this. It certainly helps me and I'm sure a number of others.

Will the boards have the pins already installed? If not, do you know if they are available? I believe there are eleven pins. I'm definitely good for one board. I found an NOS one in an internet store for 350.00 so 200 is a very reasonable price. I may talk it up a bit with some contacts I have and see how many we can get orders for.

Thanks, John

 

No prob - glad I can help out.
No, this would not include the pins. I assume they are like little brass rivets pressed into a plated through-hole on the board. Correct?

If you can send me a high-resolution clear photo of the board and where the pins are (front and back), it would help me to understand how it is made.
Some dimensions of the pins will help too. Do they come out easily?
My email is ry_ry75081 AT yahoo.
Thanks!